Solar Panel Installation and Setup

[Nocrays]

True , and Lithium batteries aren't fond of heat.
I haven't used solar on the mainland.
Solar in Tas (Vehicles , houses) is not that popular , obviously due to latitude less sun despite longer days at times of the year.
Plus it's unlikely you would find yourself offgrid for more than a few days unless you really wanted to be. And no 12 hour drives just to get away from other people!

P.S. I was thinking 40C inside the car on a warm day (30C) outside. If you are away all day that fridge will have to work harder.

I run two Century N70ZZ’s in the Landrover in WA. One start, one for accessories. I can run an Engel 40lt all summer without issue as well as winching boat on etc.

Trick is to keep the fridge full of cans! And don’t disturb too often.

Car gets a run most days with odd 3-4 day period where it doesn’t move.

For me a portable / flexible system is perfect for those time where you are going to parked up on a beach or prospecting for a week or so. You can tailor the system to suit what you’re doing.

 

[Jean Mercier]

If my fridge is full of beer cans, I will disturb it often

 

[Logsplitter]

Following on from the “fridge “ thread. Here is a link to info on smart alternators and VSR,s , dc to dc chargers etc. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/auxiliary-battery-charging-in-vehicles-with-smart-alternators.html
This clearly explains the technology in layman’s terms.

 

[Logsplitter]

Here is a link to a Ctek short video explaining about the smartpass 120 and the Ctek D250SE DC to DC battery charger.
im hoping that Ineos use the two together as I’ll be having high loads on the service battery side, inc fridge, inverter lots of equipment battery charging and camping lights etc. If only the smartpass is included in the dual battery set up then I’ll be adding the D250SE to the set up which should be an easy installation

why use a ctek D250SE and a ctek smartpass 120 rogether - Google Search

 

[das mo]

Here is a link to a Ctek short video explaining about the smartpass 120 and the Ctek D250SE DC to DC battery charger.
im hoping that Ineos use the two together as I’ll be having high loads on the service battery side, inc fridge, inverter lots of equipment battery charging and camping lights etc. If only the smartpass is included in the dual battery set up then I’ll be adding the D250SE to the set up which should be an easy installation

why use a ctek D250SE and a ctek smartpass 120 rogether - Google Search

Thanks.

I will follow what you are doing and keep my fingers crossed the 2 battery setup by Ineos is a solid basis for our plans with not too mich on top investments needed.

 

[Logsplitter]

https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/D250SE-SMARTPASS120S.pdf

 

[Znarfgh]

I decided not to get the IG dual battery setup as I tend to run LiFePo4 batteries in my vehicles and the IG offering consists of AGM batteries. These are heavy, have limited useable capacity and take too long to recharge. The other thing that put me off the IG system was the Smartpass 120 which has no solar input.

My setup will be the standard AGM starter and a LiFePo4 auxiliary battery with a DC/DC charger that has a built in MPPT controller. When the AGM dies, I will replace it with another LiFePo4 battery and link the two batteries on as needed basis (ie. winching).

Lithiums are less than half the weight, 40% greater useable capacity, charge much faster and have a longer service life. Whilst initially more expensive, they are cheaper to run over their total service life than AGM's,

 

[Logsplitter]

I decided not to get the IG dual battery setup as I tend to run LiFePo4 batteries in my vehicles and the IG offering consists of AGM batteries. These are heavy, have limited useable capacity and take too long to recharge. The other thing that put me off the IG system was the Smartpass 120 which has no solar input.

My setup will be the standard AGM starter and a LiFePo4 auxiliary battery with a DC/DC charger that has a built in MPPT controller. When the AGM dies, I will replace it with another LiFePo4 battery and link the two batteries on as needed basis (ie. winching).

Lithiums are less than half the weight, 40% greater useable capacity, charge much faster and have a longer service life. Whilst initially more expensive, they are cheaper to run over their total service life than AGM's,

I don’t think it’s confirmed yet what type of batteries are being used. But consensus seems to think they are Enhanced flooded batteries which are a step on from ordinary wet cell batteries and optimised for stop start systems and high load auxiliary set ups. I’m prepared to go with the Ineos offering as I figure it has been optimised for the vehicle and will come with the manufacturer’s warranty. Every one will be going their own way with their various electrical set ups. I hope your set up works well for you. I to will be installing a dc/dc charger with built in mppt controller

 

[AnD3rew]

Interested to see what people end up doing, I like the idea of repurposing one of the roof outlets as a solar input, it does seem like adding the ctek D250SE to the smartpass is likely to be the simplest way to go but as the system seems to be able to show the condition of the batteries on the screen will be interested to know if you can keep all that functionality if you add to it. In theory that setup might also allow a lithium second battery but again interested to know if that messes the system up. I am definitely not smart enough with all this stuff to play with it, but hope someone smarter plays and lets us know how it all goes.

 

[Tazzieman]

I don’t think it’s confirmed yet what type of batteries are being used.

Last I heard it was this : Moll 81105 AGM battery 105 Ah

 

[globalgregors]

Interested to see what people end up doing, I like the idea of repurposing one of the roof outlets as a solar input, it does seem like adding the ctek D250SE to the smartpass is likely to be the simplest way to go but as the system seems to be able to show the condition of the batteries on the screen will be interested to know if you can keep all that functionality if you add to it. In theory that setup might also allow a lithium second battery but again interested to know if that messes the system up. I am definitely not smart enough with all this stuff to play with it, but hope someone smarter plays and lets us know how it all goes.

Yes, also thinking to add the D250SE, although I do have a solar blanket with regulator included so could run straight to the battery. Interested to see setups.

 

[Logsplitter]

I see there are some lithium stop start battery’s starting to come onto the market but as said before I’ll going along with whatever Ineos have done for the standard dual battery set up plus a solar enabled dc/dc charger if not already installed by Ineos. You never know in a few days time we might discover that this is included in the dual battery set up.

 

[Znarfgh]

I don’t think it’s confirmed yet what type of batteries are being used. But consensus seems to think they are Enhanced flooded batteries which are a step on from ordinary wet cell batteries and optimised for stop start systems and high load auxiliary set ups. I’m prepared to go with the Ineos offering as I figure it has been optimised for the vehicle and will come with the manufacturer’s warranty. Every one will be going their own way with their various electrical set ups. I hope your set up works well for you. I to will be installing a dc/dc charger with built in mppt controller

Only two options for in car mounted batteries - AGM or GEL. I'm pretty confident they'll supply AGM.

 

[Logsplitter]

Only two options for in car mounted batteries - AGM or GEL. I'm pretty confident they'll supply AGM.

Let’s hope they go with AGM. I had two in my last dual battery set up nd worked real well

 

[PBD]

In the early trailmaster specs an inverter was also included,but that seems to have been dropped. The prefered charging system seems to be ctec, any ideas on a 2000 amp compatible inverter for 240 a/c? I know next to sod all about this subject, but an inverter would be useful.

 

[Logsplitter]

Don’t know much about inverters other than pure sign wave is the way to go for certain applications especially if you want to have a bread maker in your vehicle apparently
Here’s a link to a 2000w inverter from a company I’ve used quite a bit in the U.K. might be useful for reference and price comparison.

Durite Compact Pure Sinewave Inverter 12V DC - 230V AC 2000W (0-857-20)

Durite 12V 2000W compact pure sinewave inverter 0-857-20. Safely & reliably provides mains power on the move in campervans, motorhomes & boats. 4000W peak.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[globalgregors]

In the early trailmaster specs an inverter was also included,but that seems to have been dropped. The prefered charging system seems to be ctec, any ideas on a 2000 amp compatible inverter for 240 a/c? I know next to sod all about this subject, but an inverter would be useful.

Dominant brand in Oz would be Redarc. Many installations, albeit with some critics. Expensive. I’m anticipating a 2000W however I’ve not yet purchased pending confirmation of DC-DC/MPPT setup. This is somewhat larger than my previous inverters which have been 350W or less and only used to charge camera and drone batteries. For this setup I’ll have StarLink, 8V tools and specialist knicknacks (LIDAR etc) that I’ll want to power from the back. It’ll live under the rear seat if possible else I’ll mount it to the cargo barrier.

 

[Logsplitter]

Dominant brand in Oz would be Redarc. Many installations, albeit with some critics. Expensive. I’m anticipating a 2000W however I’ve not yet purchased pending confirmation of DC-DC/MPPT setup. This is somewhat larger than previous inverters which have been 350W or less and only used to charge camera and drone batteries. For this setup I’ll have StarLink, 8V tools and specialist knicknacks (LIDAR etc) that I’ll want to power from the back.

I’m with you. We have lots of camera, computer, phone s etc to charge. Plus probably more technology by the time the Grenadier is kitted out. My Grenadier will be a step up in how I kit it out compared to my Defender. I need the ability to power 18v tools. I may well invest in a Makita 1/2” drive impact driver for wheel nuts as already have other Makita 18v kit.

 

[bimmerteck]

Wait, just running an AC inverter to recharge DC batteries? It’s much more efficient to use dc-dc chargers for any of those batteries.

 

[Logsplitter]

Wait, just running an AC inverter to recharge DC batteries? It’s much more efficient to use dc-dc chargers for any of those batteries.
[/QUOTE
Agreed if I can get a 12v to 18v charger for my kit at the right price I’ll get one. Had never looked into that. I just figured to use existing 230v charger. Thanks