Shi**y at Shifting… anyone else? (Transfer Case)

[RJCali]

Hey all, I am having a really tough time with this transfer case. I read and re-read the instructions and watched Ineos’ own tutorial online… my transfer case does absolutely not work as described. I have plenty of past experience with manual shifting - 5th gen 4Runner, 3rd Gen 4Runner and Jeeps all with manual shift levers.

This weekend we took the truck to Tahoe. A few nice off road trails - nothing wild but some good rock and dust - an opportunity to get familiar with the truck.

I find to prevent grinding gears I have to physically hold the lever past its lock / latch point - like pushed hard forward all the way, keep it held there whilst I engage D, then release the lever and it snaps back to its lock point. If I just go from 4L position, lift the collar and move to 4H position locked with the collar (like in all the online videos) it’s like an intimate date with 6 spoons and a kitchen sink disposal. last thing on this afternoon’s run for the first time it did the same engaging Low. Previously this had been fine, only back to H was the problem. Now it seems I have to use one hand to hold the lever right as hard and as far as it will go and the other to engage D to prevent grind. I suspect I could have caught the L issue, as the L lamp on the dash is pretty accurate. Maybe I didn’t check it as all day before it’s been fine getting in.

This thing is for sure a beast climbing off road. But I am really concerned about the transfer case robustness.

Anyone else with similar issues. I’ll be giving the dealer and Ineos a call Monday to discuss.

 

[Tom D]

Sometimes mine won't move at all, however rolling slightly forward or backward fixes that. I have not had any grinding issues though.

 

[anand]

It is critical to ensure the collar is fully seated (down) before putting the truck back into gear (drive or reverse). If you get any grinding whatsoever, the first reaction should be to immediately turn the truck off, this will stop all the rotation. Then re-engage whichever transfer case position you're attempting to move it to, and then start the truck and place it into drive.

It helps a lot to make sure you have been at a complete stop for 1-2 seconds, and wait a few seconds after shifting it to neutral before going between high and low range. If it seems very tough, try taking your foot off the brake to allow the truck to move even just a few mm's

The shifters can be very tough/stiff for the first couple dozen shifts around the box, it definitely gets better with time.

 

[RJCali]

It is critical to ensure the collar is fully seated (down) before putting the truck back into gear (drive or reverse). If you get any grinding whatsoever, the first reaction should be to immediately turn the truck off, this will stop all the rotation. Then re-engage whichever transfer case position you're attempting to move it to, and then start the truck and place it into drive.

It helps a lot to make sure you have been at a complete stop for 1-2 seconds, and wait a few seconds after shifting it to neutral before going between high and low range. If it seems very tough, try taking your foot off the brake to allow the truck to move even just a few mm's

The shifters can be very tough/stiff for the first couple dozen shifts around the box, it definitely gets better with time.

Yeah I agree this is how it should work. But 100% in my experience if I only rely on the collars being engaged / locked, this does not mean the case has shifted.

 

[TahoeGren]

I had the same grinding issue today after shifting to low range. The L lit up in the telltale, but I believe the lever didn’t go all the way. I shifted back to high, let the vehicle roll, and shifted to L again. The tightness makes it hard to tell if it’s shifted properly, maybe it will loosen up after more use.

 

[Tom D]

Mine is easy to move when the gears mesh, the issue is that when they don't you have to move the car to get it to engage. Its so much easier in a manual like the old defender, you’d slowly raise the clutch as you operated the T’case lever, it would pop in every time.

 

[ECrider]

Yes happens to mine. Sounds and feels dreadful. Mine last did it on Friday. Stationary, was in LL, shifted to LU then immediately to HU and it went into grind mode. Selected neutral, rammed the selector hard forward and it meshed. Not sure if there is any correlation to the sequence or whether makes no difference.

 

[Tom D]

Sounds like some of you need adjustment doing on the Bowden cables.
Has anyone found a workshop manual or technical bulletin on this?
I'd like to know the correct procedure.

 

[RJCali]

Sounds like some of you need adjustment doing on the Bowden cables.
Has anyone found a workshop manual or technical bulletin on this?
I'd like to know the correct procedure.

Tom, that was my first thought - I imagine the latch positions are really pretty unrelated to the transfer case and rely on the cable or linkage to be appropriately adjusted. Hopefully not too much damage and it can be resolved.

 

[samnt650]

Hey all, I am having a really tough time with this transfer case. I read and re-read the instructions and watched Ineos’ own tutorial online… my transfer case does absolutely not work as described. I have plenty of past experience with manual shifting - 5th gen 4Runner, 3rd Gen 4Runner and Jeeps all with manual shift levers.

This weekend we took the truck to Tahoe. A few nice off road trails - nothing wild but some good rock and dust - an opportunity to get familiar with the truck.

I find to prevent grinding gears I have to physically hold the lever past its lock / latch point - like pushed hard forward all the way, keep it held there whilst I engage D, then release the lever and it snaps back to its lock point. If I just go from 4L position, lift the collar and move to 4H position locked with the collar (like in all the online videos) it’s like an intimate date with 6 spoons and a kitchen sink disposal. last thing on this afternoon’s run for the first time it did the same engaging Low. Previously this had been fine, only back to H was the problem. Now it seems I have to use one hand to hold the lever right as hard and as far as it will go and the other to engage D to prevent grind. I suspect I could have caught the L issue, as the L lamp on the dash is pretty accurate. Maybe I didn’t check it as all day before it’s been fine getting in.

This thing is for sure a beast climbing off road. But I am really concerned about the transfer case robustness.

Anyone else with similar issues. I’ll be giving the dealer and Ineos a call Monday to discuss.

When I first got the IG, this is how I got the truck successfully to 4LL.. 4H to 4HL (can do this while truck can be in gear upto 20mph). Full stop & neutral. Go from 4HL to 4LL. Make sure the shifter is properly lock in to position then put trans back to D

 

[Tom109]

Sounds like some of you need adjustment doing on the Bowden cables.
Has anyone found a workshop manual or technical bulletin on this?
I'd like to know the correct procedure.

I agree. I have decades driving LT230 LR’s and my Gren feels like the shift lever runs out of travel (hard stop) before fully engaging low.

 

[ECrider]

I agree. I have decades driving LT230 LR’s and my Gren feels like the shift lever runs out of travel (hard stop) before fully engaging low.

Yes mine feels like has less travel than it would want.

 

[Nocrays]

Hey all, I am having a really tough time with this transfer case. I read and re-read the instructions and watched Ineos’ own tutorial online… my transfer case does absolutely not work as described. I have plenty of past experience with manual shifting - 5th gen 4Runner, 3rd Gen 4Runner and Jeeps all with manual shift levers.

This weekend we took the truck to Tahoe. A few nice off road trails - nothing wild but some good rock and dust - an opportunity to get familiar with the truck.

I find to prevent grinding gears I have to physically hold the lever past its lock / latch point - like pushed hard forward all the way, keep it held there whilst I engage D, then release the lever and it snaps back to its lock point. If I just go from 4L position, lift the collar and move to 4H position locked with the collar (like in all the online videos) it’s like an intimate date with 6 spoons and a kitchen sink disposal. last thing on this afternoon’s run for the first time it did the same engaging Low. Previously this had been fine, only back to H was the problem. Now it seems I have to use one hand to hold the lever right as hard and as far as it will go and the other to engage D to prevent grind. I suspect I could have caught the L issue, as the L lamp on the dash is pretty accurate. Maybe I didn’t check it as all day before it’s been fine getting in.

This thing is for sure a beast climbing off road. But I am really concerned about the transfer case robustness.

Anyone else with similar issues. I’ll be giving the dealer and Ineos a call Monday to discuss.

I had the situation wehere I couldnt move into Low rage at all. Eventually service confirmed a problem with the Transfer Case and replaced the whole thing.

The whine from the TC is now gone and it is easier to put in Low abut still very stiff. I have also picked up a terrible vibration at 1800 rpm.

I am forming the opinion that the Transfer case is the weak link in the Grenadier build. I like the simple deign of the TC but it seems to be very finickity so will interested to see how it is with 200000km on it.

My suggestion is that if its not right get ineos to replace it.

 

[RJCali]

I had the situation wehere I couldnt move into Low rage at all. Eventually service confirmed a problem with the Transfer Case and replaced the whole thing.

The whine from the TC is now gone and it is easier to put in Low abut still very stiff. I have also picked up a terrible vibration at 1800 rpm.

I am forming the opinion that the Transfer case is the weak link in the Grenadier build. I like the simple deign of the TC but it seems to be very finickity so will interested to see how it is with 200000km on it.

My suggestion is that if its not right get ineos to replace it.

Appreciate the details. I spoke to Ineos UK and they were pretty positive about ‘if it doesn’t feel right, get it to the dealer’, so it’s on the list for the first dealer visit whenever that happens.

 

[Logsplitter]

Appreciate the details. I spoke to Ineos UK and they were pretty positive about ‘if it doesn’t feel right, get it to the dealer’, so it’s on the list for the first dealer visit whenever that happens.

If it’s any consolation it does get better with use. I’ve found Ineos very helpful and my dealer especially so. So if you feel it’s a problem then reach out to the dealer and let them check it out.
I’m at 18,000 miles (imperial ) now and still a little stiff compared to what I’m used to. Speaking to the Ineos tech yesterday and he’s saying it will get easier with use and certainly hold that lever In there as you change and then shift into drive. Sometimes I feel the locking collar doesn’t always fall into place but if you keep pushing that transfer box lever into place as you shift into drive I’ve found that helps and works for me.
Hope you get get to enjoy what a great vehicle the Grenadier is.

 

[Mountain4x4]

Seems very random. I shifted mine a ton yesterday and never had any issues. I was deliberate as instructed, but no grinding, no issues at all. Keep in mind this a really advanced, gear driven and cooled ( will always be noisy) transfer case the likes of which is not something seen before in an production vehicle. Its very bespoke, but should be durable as hell. If you want to see something funny, check out the Matts Off Road Recovery episodes where they experimented with an all gear driven t-case for competition, but with STRAIGHT CUT GEARS........It came out very quickly