The Grenadier Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to contribute to the community by adding your own topics, posts, and connect with other members through your own private inbox! INEOS Agents, Dealers or Commercial vendors please contact admin@theineosforum.com for a commercial account.

Rust (rust on wheel centres/axle ends)

Wilaspira

Grenadier Owner
Local time
9:47 AM
Joined
May 25, 2022
Messages
199
Hi, similar to the electrical gremlins (all to date superficial[?]) there seem to be some common issues on the newly collected vehicles with surface rust on wheel centres/axle ends. My car (a sub 1000 VIN) is suffering from a mild dose of this - see below

front wheel lh

IMG_8845.jpeg


Rear wheel lh. Note it is as if the metal on centre element this side has been treated in some way ie it has a dark finish much like the front face and no/less visible surface rust? Note also rust to end of wheel bolts (this only seems to be afflicting this wheel)

IMG_8846.jpeg


front rh

IMG_8848.jpeg


Is this the same/similar for other new owners?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8847.jpeg
    IMG_8847.jpeg
    148.6 KB · Views: 35
Yours is the first I've seen with surface rust on the end of the wheel studs; but most seem to have the surface rust of the hub edges.
 
Looking around the various car parks at nearly new vehicles, very few had visible wheel studs & nuts. Most were alloy wheels with domed nuts or had plastic wheel trims. All the exceptions all showed some signs of rusting.
It is my intention to remove all wheels as soon as I get my N1 home and copper grease the studs as well as the spigot centre. That way I'll have a good chance of getting the wheel off roadside without the need for serious tooling.
 
Yours is the first I've seen with surface rust on the end of the wheel studs; but most seem to have the surface rust of the hub edges.
Glad to see that I’m “innovating” on the rust front. For what it’s worth, one rear and one front tow eye also had small chips through the powder coating to the underlying metal. Odd that these were damaged (albeit only very slightly), perhaps the vehicles were towed around during manufacture/transport?
 
Glad to see that I’m “innovating” on the rust front. For what it’s worth, one rear and one front tow eye also had small chips through the powder coating to the underlying metal. Odd that these were damaged (albeit only very slightly), perhaps the vehicles were towed around during manufacture/transport?
Or they used the towing eyes as tie downs during transport. Maybe the ratchet straps with metal hooks on the end. Just a thought 🤔
 
Looking around the various car parks at nearly new vehicles, very few had visible wheel studs & nuts. Most were alloy wheels with domed nuts or had plastic wheel trims. All the exceptions all showed some signs of rusting.
It is my intention to remove all wheels as soon as I get my N1 home and copper grease the studs as well as the spigot centre. That way I'll have a good chance of getting the wheel off roadside without the need for serious tooling.
I once had a flat tire in Corsica some years ago, late evening. Couldn't get my wheel off. Called road assistance company (had an insurance). While I'll waited them to come, I continued to try to get it off. I finally succeeded. Called them back: it's OK, don't need help anymore. Problem: rust + flat tire! I will not take my wheel off now, I'll wait till I have to go to the dealer and then ask them to take the wheel off and put some decent grease.
 
So I took the rear wheels off this afternoon to see the full effect:
WP_20230605_070.jpg

WP_20230605_054.jpg

WP_20230605_072.jpg


A little wire wool later, and they were ready for a light coating of Copaslip and putting back on:
WP_20230605_057.jpg
WP_20230605_058.jpg


It's worth noting that the back face of the wheels are not completely flat, and so the mating surface for coating with any product needs to be applied judiciously.
 
Although this rust is not uncommon and usually doesn't cause any real problems, I don't like to see it on a brand new car. At least the wheel mounting flange on the brake disc should have a light protective coating.
 
Quite.

Mine's been stood around for 5 months so the results were sort of expected. They tidied up OK.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Max
Looking around the various car parks at nearly new vehicles, very few had visible wheel studs & nuts. Most were alloy wheels with domed nuts or had plastic wheel trims. All the exceptions all showed some signs of rusting.
It is my intention to remove all wheels as soon as I get my N1 home and copper grease the studs as well as the spigot centre. That way I'll have a good chance of getting the wheel off roadside without the need for serious tooling.
A question, for wheel lugs does greasing the threads do anything negative to reaching a correct tightening torque, i.e. will that lead to overtightening?
 
Threads? I prosume DCPU meant the surfaces only?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Max
A question, for wheel lugs does greasing the threads do anything negative to reaching a correct tightening torque, i.e. will that lead to overtightening?
Theoretically, yes. You should not grease studs as it can lead to over torquing. Bentley motors have a paper on this which you can find online. Personally, based on my 50 years of putting a small amount of copper slip on each stud I have NEVER had any issues and it only made life easier.
 
A question, for wheel lugs does greasing the threads do anything negative to reaching a correct tightening torque, i.e. will that lead to overtightening?
Hi Boston Boy, Yes, from my understanding putting any lubricant on the studs or wheel nuts will change the torque settings, allowing you
to potentially over torque without knowing it and if not careful break a threaded stud off. I have read this numerous times. Most say
don't apply any lubricant, however there are some that say they have been doing so and never experienced any issues. I am sure
most manufactures including Ineos would not recommend it. I would recommend doing your own research on this and drawing your own
conclusions. Just keep in mind lubricants on the studs will change the torque settings. DaBull
 
+1 for some copper grease on studs.

I'm aware of the risks of changing the correct torque reading but in my opinion minimal risk so have always done so and will continue.
 
The biggest risk is with people who rely on tyre shops using rattle guns to tighten their wheel nuts.
Check wheel nuts yourself , regularly, if you don't already have this habit.
And beware of actvists and delinquents who are prone to loosening them without your permission.
 
My friend is a tire fitter occasionally he will use a very small dab of copper grease diluted with WD40 but only the smallest amount on dodgy studs/disc faces.
 
The biggest risk is with people who rely on tyre shops using rattle guns to tighten their wheel nuts.
Check wheel nuts yourself , regularly, if you don't already have this habit.
And beware of actvists and delinquents who are prone to loosening them without your permission.
one of the chaps in the pub used to work at TVR garage. Mechanic forgot to put wheel nuts on after servicing. Customer collected car and was passed by his two rear wheels as he braked!

Lads, always check your nuts!
 
Back
Top Bottom