Rear view mirror mount dislodged.

[OldSoldier]

Hey all. I’m installing the wolf box and when I was removing the rear view mirror the mount came off. Any idea how to put it back on? I have not had any luck.

 

[OldSoldier]

Nvm. I got it. Used a bigger dead blow hammer

 

[Clark Kent]

Nvm. I got it. Used a bigger dead blow hammer

For reference the windscreen end is a twist-off fitting. Turn the arm approximately 40 degrees anticlockwise and it will come away from the windscreen. Line it up and twist clockwise to refit. It's tight. Have some choice words ready.

 

[Tom109]

For reference the windscreen end is a twist-off fitting. Turn the arm approximately 40 degrees anticlockwise and it will come away from the windscreen. Line it up and twist clockwise to refit. It's tight. Have some choice words ready.

OP is in the USA, so MY24 (ADAS) mirror.

 

[Clark Kent]

OP is in the USA, so MY24 (ADAS) mirror.

Thanks Tom. I saw that but the 2nd pic is the same three-claw euro mount as ROW vehicles so once all the ADAS shi stuff is out of the way the metal arm should still twist off the stud on the windscreen. Is this not the case?

Edit. Had another look at the pic with my glasses on. The ADAS arm has the same claws plus those four short studs so no twisting for you. Carry on!

This is the end of the ROW non-ADAS arm, and the windscreen stud. Very similar but somehow different.

 

[Dagwood777]

Same thing happened to me while installing my wolfbox this weekend. Old mirror would not pop off the ball socket, and in my struggle the whole mirror mount came off the windshield.

I was a bit confused with the comments above about USA vs international, and also it seemed that the solution here involved a dead blow hammer.

In my case, I found that I had to angle the mount about 45 degrees to get it to seat relatively flat over the mounting bolt. Then I rotated the mount vertical while applying a lot of pressure. Once it got vertical, it snapped into place onto the bolt head. No hammer required.

Took a few tries though and was not fun. LOL. Also, had to remove the ADAS block to get room to work with the mount, but that was super easy. Just slide the two side clips down to release the ADAS unity and it came right out.

Thanks for posting about this though. I never would have figured it out without the photos and discussion above!

 

[BartHarleyJarvis]

I wrestled with this today. The 3 clawed thing that grabs the bolt head thing can become misshapen when the mount comes off. I found it helpful to unscrew the claw thing and get it back to the right shape by testing it on the bolt head.

I also found it easiest to engage the bottom and top right claws and then clip the mount on by tilting it northwest.

Incredibly frustrating. Lots of cuss words before I figured it out. I’ve had a hell of a day trying to get to the back of the stereo head unit (under the steering wheel above the air bag) and then the mirror mount coming off was the last straw!

 

[Deepcrates]

If you remove the adas block do you have to recalibrate?

 

[BartHarleyJarvis]

If you remove the adas block do you have to recalibrate?

I didn't have to recalibrate - or at least nothing has said something needed to be recalibrated!

 

[Deepcrates]

Alright well I figured out the secret to a pretty easy reinstallation of that bracket.

1. On the right side of that bracket near the mounting surface around the edge (hold it so the end with the ball is towards you) that holds the rear view mirror there is a raised tab that coincides with the main pin that helps you clock where it needs to go. It’s a raised tab. You can’t miss it.

2. Just below that raised tab is the main pin and that pin fits into the semi-circle cutout that is about 4pm when looking straight at the head of the nut on the windshield which has that washer with the cutouts. You want that pin to eventually slide into that cutout.

3. Now when you just hover over it with the bracket perfectly where it was originally you should be able to see how it all fits together and where the pins are supposed to be. There are other pins that stick out on the bracket but they don’t stick out as far as the one with the raised tab. This means they sit on top of that washer and act more as spacers.

4. What you need to do is find one of the pins that lines up with the top notch cutout at 12pm on the washer that surrounds that nut on the windshield. When you turn the knob approximately 45 degrees with the ball end pointing at around 4pm one of the pins should align to that top cutout.

5. The top cutout is more shallow, which should allow the pin that sits inside there to slip past it with just enough force.

6. so what you do is at about 45 degrees and at 4pm, register that pin into that notch at 12pm on the washer. Now with some pressure applied upward to keep that pin against the notch, you want to then also apply some rotational force clockwise. Turning the bracket so the ball goes from 4pm to 6pm.

7. The key, push the upper part in as you rotate. That keeps the pin at 12pm registered and then with a decent but not crazy amount of force, the pin will clear that shallow notch at 12pm and the main pin at 4pm will fall right into place. It will pop into place, you’ll feel it.

It doesn’t take a lot of force at all as long as you register everything right.

Hope this helps!