Build Thread @ninetubes - overlanding build - western australia

[Nishan]

By trigger wire, I mean the wire that triggers, switches, or actuates the relay. Not its power feed, just the switch wire.
My overhead spotlight switch works as per factory. But now when the factory spots light up, so does the roof light.
I did this by taking a feed from the spotlights positive connection. This power wire is only live when the factory spotlights are illuminated. I then connected this into the EXT2 25A relay.
So now that relay no longer switches on off by the roof ext2 switch.
That relay now switches on and off the moment the factory spotlights do, so in effect the factory spotlights and the roof light bar now operate in parallel, together, as one, at the same moment in time.
I hope this answers your question

OK. This is really helpfull. I should be able to do the same by connecting hibeam trigger to factory spot light positive connection. Do you have any photos of how did you tap in to factory spot light positive connection?.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

By trigger wire, I mean the wire that triggers, switches, or actuates the relay. Not its power feed, just the switch wire.
My overhead spotlight switch works as per factory. But now when the factory spots light up, so does the roof light.
I did this by taking a feed from the spotlights positive connection. This power wire is only live when the factory spotlights are illuminated. I then connected this into the EXT2 25A relay.
So now that relay no longer switches on off by the roof ext2 switch.
That relay now switches on and off the moment the factory spotlights do, so in effect the factory spotlights and the roof light bar now operate in parallel, together, as one, at the same moment in time.
I hope this answers your question

This is what I'm doing too. I'm then going to cut the other end of the brown trigger wire from the ext2 switch above the roof panel and use it to feed / switch the wolfbox mirror install.

 

[ninetubes]

Finally got around to getting raptor coat on the side steps after modifying them

 

[ninetubes]

Small one this week. Installed a shelf onto the overhead console. It’s handy for wallet, pocket knife and garage remote etc. no good for sunglasses and it’s hard to get anything too big in there without accidentally flicking some of the aux switches. Also makes it hard to see the diff lock buttons etc.
It’s ok for what it is, but kinda expensive for what it achieves. Then again it looks kinda cool 7/10.

 

[ninetubes]

Also missed that fact that a few months ago I did considerable damage to the paintwork in the scrub whilst on a trip.
So got the worst of the scratches buffed and a PPF applied. It’s the bushwrapz advanced 5 year product and only covers sides etc, not the bonnet or roof.
Hides the scratches and is easy to clean. Also enjoying the peace of mind when off road. Should have done it from the outset.
9.5/10 so long as it lasts the 5 years they claim.

 

[Thinpins]

Planning:
After cutting the grille I felt like the "plastic was off". At the time i couldn't find any info with regard to how and where to run electrical wires for UHF ratio and electric trailer brakes, compressor placement etc, so i set to stripping the car to have a good look around and start planning.
i stripped the back door trims and the cargo areas, removed the battery covers from the rear seat, removed the front seats and carpet under them. Then took the dash apart, removed the centre console and roof switch panel. wheel inner guards came out along with the wheel arch flares and the external trims around the back door. Learnt plenty and didn't break much.
I found all the spare aux wiring - what an easter egg hunt that was!
Then set to testing a bunch of things to see how they worked and what voltage things ran at.
Also sketched out the aux switch panel as people kept asking me what was what up there - ref the photos below

Do you mind showing how you ran the antenna cable into the upper corner trim into the interior? Did you run it between the body panels I’ve marked up in the pic? Were there many obstructions when snaking across the roof lining.

 

[ninetubes]

Do you mind showing how you ran the antenna cable into the upper corner trim into the interior? Did you run it between the body panels I’ve marked up in the pic? Were there many obstructions when snaking across the roof lining.

Around the back door the plastic side an top panels are removable. So I removed them and ran the cable under them before reinstalling them. There is also a grommet under the side ones that I used to gain access inside.
One minor obstruction encountered when pushing the snake through the roof lining. I ended up doing it twice made a cabling mistake. Went fine both times, straight through to the overhead switch panel.
Cheers, Dan

 

[RYAustralia]

View attachment 7866107Also missed that fact that a few months ago I did considerable damage to the paintwork in the scrub whilst on a trip.
So got the worst of the scratches buffed and a PPF applied. It’s the bushwrapz advanced 5 year product and only covers sides etc, not the bonnet or roof.
Hides the scratches and is easy to clean. Also enjoying the peace of mind when off road. Should have done it from the outset.
9.5/10 so long as it lasts the 5 years they claim.

Haha, I did exactly the same, scratches everywhere, got them buffed out and then had self healing PPF installed. Looks like new ever since!

 

[ninetubes]

I had a friend 3D print a cover for the throttle pedal. This effectively raises it by 22mm by clipping on top of the original and improves driver comfort. I now have my seat back one more click and have a little more left foot legroom.
Got it from here: https://www.printables.com/model/655547-ineos-grenadier-throttle-pedal-extension
Unfortunately he only had orange print material at the time
7/10

 

[ninetubes]

Fitted airbag man high pressure helper bags into the rear springs to level the car out when loaded given the extra fuel tank at the very back and ball load when towing. I leave 5-10PSI in them when empty and don’t notice them, takes about 30-40PSI to level the car out when loaded.
Fitting wasn’t hard and took a couple of hours. I was able to drop the shocks off the axle and raise the car to extend the springs enough to squeeze the bags in through the coils without removing them.
I put the values in the factory holes near the recovery points and added some black caps so you can’t see them.

9/10

 

[ninetubes]

Fitted the Brown Davis 68L aux tank.
Great having 158L onboard now.
It comes with a replacement filler neck that fills both tanks at once, and can also receive a larger diameter hi-flow diesel bowser nozzle (some places this is all that’s available eg remote truck stops). I note that I haven’t been able to fill mine at the high flow rate though and have to meter the nozzle to avoid it clicking off or spilling etc.
The instructions were terrible and fitting took a solid day.
I varied the intended fitment as follows:

Threw out the supplied exhaust replacement and welded on a new stainless steel exhaust to match the factory one. The supplied one was carbon steel and only held on with a u-bolt which felt like a downgrade to the car.

Added some self adhesive heat shielding to the tank where the exhaust runs very close to it

Cut the adblue neck support bracket off the old filler neck and used it to support the adblue neck by attaching to the new filler neck. There was no provision for this in what was supplied and another downgrade from what Ineos made.

I used a heat gun and welding gloves to re-mould the inner guard around the additional piping. This wasn’t in the instructions and I’m not sure how you could possible get it to clip back in where it was without doing this. I can only assume others just don’t bother.

It’s an average product with ill considered fitment but it does the job. However the car is miles more capable now I can carry enough fuel for extended Offroad trips

I didn’t take photos during the install. Sorry.
5.5/10

 

[ninetubes]

First decent trip with new tank.
500km in low range (averaging 15-25km/h all day, for days), 200km along beaches and more along the usual corrugated gravel roads.
Over 3500km incl all the highway driving.
The TPMS warnings at really low pressures were annoying. I found I was manual shifting all day in low range as the revs were too high in auto (fuel consumption).
Both air and cabin air filters were new and needed replacing after the trip. Very dusty a lot of the way
Car was fine but has developed some kind of turbo boost leak this week.

10/10

 

[LeeroyJ]

looks like an awesome trip. can't wait to get my extended fuel tank!

 

[Peter Salmonides]

I tried to contact Brown Davis several times from Vienna/Austria/Europe with the question wether the fuel tank is only for Diesel (because I've a Trialmaster petrol edition), but no answer at all! Do You know, the fuel tank ist also ready for petrol?

 

[TheDocAUS]

I tried to contact Brown Davis several times from Vienna/Austria/Europe with the question wether the fuel tank is only for Diesel (because I've a Trialmaster petrol edition), but no answer at all! Do You know, the fuel tank ist also ready for petrol?

I have not seen any release of the Petrol model, so far. It cannot be that far away as 3 diesel models have been released: Grenadier (1 model) QM (2 models).

 

[ninetubes]

I tried to contact Brown Davis several times from Vienna/Austria/Europe with the question wether the fuel tank is only for Diesel (because I've a Trialmaster petrol edition), but no answer at all! Do You know, the fuel tank ist also ready for petrol?

It’s not ready for petrol. The petrol tanks will be bigger than the diesel ones, as the adblue tanks in the diesel take to a lot of space.

 

[Mudnut]

Fitted the Brown Davis 68L aux tank.
Great having 158L onboard now.
It comes with a replacement filler neck that fills both tanks at once, and can also receive a larger diameter hi-flow diesel bowser nozzle (some places this is all that’s available eg remote truck stops). I note that I haven’t been able to fill mine at the high flow rate though and have to meter the nozzle to avoid it clicking off or spilling etc.
The instructions were terrible and fitting took a solid day.
I varied the intended fitment as follows:

Threw out the supplied exhaust replacement and welded on a new stainless steel exhaust to match the factory one. The supplied one was carbon steel and only held on with a u-bolt which felt like a downgrade to the car.

Added some self adhesive heat shielding to the tank where the exhaust runs very close to it

Cut the adblue neck support bracket off the old filler neck and used it to support the adblue neck by attaching to the new filler neck. There was no provision for this in what was supplied and another downgrade from what Ineos made.

I used a heat gun and welding gloves to re-mould the inner guard around the additional piping. This wasn’t in the instructions and I’m not sure how you could possible get it to clip back in where it was without doing this. I can only assume others just don’t bother.

It’s an average product with ill considered fitment but it does the job. However the car is miles more capable now I can carry enough fuel for extended Offroad trips

I didn’t take photos during the install. Sorry.
5.5/10

I am curious about the old filler neck. Do you still have it? If yes, do you think it would be possible for the black plastic inside the cap to be cut out and remove the stupid flap. Would this enlarge the opening enough to allow a high flow nozzle? I have a Quartermaster, and am thinking of doing this modification as I work remote. LR tank not a viable option (read expensive) as 5x fuel cans in the back tub is easy.

 

[DenisM]

I am curious about the old filler neck. Do you still have it? If yes, do you think it would be possible for the black plastic inside the cap to be cut out and remove the stupid flap. Would this enlarge the opening enough to allow a high flow nozzle? I have a Quartermaster, and am thinking of doing this modification as I work remote. LR tank not a viable option (read expensive) as 5x fuel cans in the back tub is easy.

A $3 plastic long spout funnel from "Supercrap" with the spout cut off at the 25mm external diameter mark pushes the flap out of the way and enables "Hi Flow" nozzles and "Sceptre" brand jerry can spouts to be used.