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Build Thread @ninetubes - overlanding build - western australia

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Hey Hans,
Thanks mate.
1. The sliders are just far enough out to get a boot on. Ergonomically they are a bit too high to enter and exit comfortably. The trade off to maintaining good ground clearance.
2. I find the 2.5m long roof rack adequate. Enough room for a 2.1m roof tent plus jerrycans etc.
3. The muffler makes no difference at all. Even under load at high revs. I have seen it removed from a petrol and it made a big difference. I believe it’s mainly for the petrol and has just been left in the diesel which doesn’t really need it due to having 2 turbos a cat and a dpf to attenuate the exhaust noise.
All the best, Dan
 
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Hi Dan! Thank you very much for your reply! I see you really know what you are doing.

Many people with the LR Defender take the muffler in the middle of the exhaust system out and say, there is nearly no difference. Your argumentation with the turbos , the cat and the DPF sounds very convincingly! But our TÜV(the organization that checks the car every 2 years) will say no!

To the roof rack: The Rack on my Defender is 2.80 meters long and together with our roof tent from Maggiolina we had enough room for our equipment on our safaris in southern Afrika. The roof rack of the Grenadier could easyly be 20-30 cm longer. I took measure of the mounted racks on the Grenadier. I will wait till my producer of the roof rack in the Netherlands( Tembo) or an other will produce a longer roof rack. I need the space.

To the rocksliders: I think your idea to cut the sliders off and weld three short elongations in a different angle, so you can put your boot on it to enter or leave the car, is the best and cheapest way to solve two important problems: how to enter the car and how to protect it.

Thanks again for your posting of your ideas! These posts make this forum excellent! Hans
 
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Rear Storage / Drawers:
Off Road Systems were one of the first people that i heard had access to a Grenadier and would sell drawers, so being the impatient man i am, i bought them. They shipped them to me and i assembled and fitted them myself.
I went for a drawer fridge as i still wanted space on top of the drawers, plus it's easier for my lady to see into.

In the side/wing pockets of the drawers i was able to fit:

ARB twin compressor on the jack side, with room to get the jack past the compressor, just. plus switch and hose connection on the face just inside the small door. there is still room in that wing space for a little bag that's home to my hoses and inflators etc.

2000W invertor (240V) for coffee machine and an induction cooktop - this means no gas, so basically unlimited cooking power for longer trips

50A anderson accessory point. this is basically spare so i can run 12V to whatever i want. Eg a second fridge etc

Battery monitor for the Aux lithium, along with a solar input and a couple of USBs for phones etc.

Lastly i made a shelf for up the top of the cargo space, which you can read about in this post here: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/diy-rear-cargo-shelf.12414074/
Any idea of the weight of your drawers, refrigerator and other items in the back?
 

ninetubes

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I’ve had a lot of interest in the rear cargo shelf I made. So got an additional 10 made for some local owners. Increased the material thickness to 3mm which is much better.
That also all fitted up perfectly which was a real relief!
Full post here with the cut file updated.
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/diy-rear-cargo-shelf.12414074/

Here’s proof they don’t just fit my car!
35af6940-9e5e-4ab0-95f8-f6295c6f562d.jpeg
 

ninetubes

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Were they a member when you met? Certainly I hope they are here now!
I think he was, we have both certainly spoken of this forum.
We have about one grenadier per 12000 people in my area, close to 200 vehicles now.
I’ve met a few owners via mutual connections that have put us in touch. Becoming a neat little community supporting one another
 

Krabby

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I think he was, we have both certainly spoken of this forum.
We have about one grenadier per 12000 people in my area, close to 200 vehicles now.
I’ve met a few owners via mutual connections that have put us in touch. Becoming a neat little community supporting one another
And the more the merrier. What I love about our members is the pure diversity - we're a very eclectic group and range greatly in age, nationality, career choice (and retired), etc. Makes for a great place to hang out.
 

ninetubes

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Adjusted in some more caster last week. Approx 5mm. I marked the bushes to I can go back to where it was. Haven’t taken the time to put it on the turn plates yet to check degrees.
Done about 1000km since, incl highway towing.
The steering is a little heavier, return to centre is slightly better. There is also more feel from the steering wheel. Not a polar shift, but noticeable.
Previously I’d removed the dampener to get a feel for using a lower dampening rate unit.
After some rough road testing, I decided I would prefer to stick with the factory dampener, so went the route of playing with caster.
Photo from the test trip
IMG_2012.jpeg
 

AFdude412

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Adjusted in some more caster last week. Approx 5mm. I marked the bushes to I can go back to where it was. Haven’t taken the time to put it on the turn plates yet to check degrees.
Done about 1000km since, incl highway towing.
The steering is a little heavier, return to centre is slightly better. There is also more feel from the steering wheel. Not a polar shift, but noticeable.
Previously I’d removed the dampener to get a feel for using a lower dampening rate unit.
After some rough road testing, I decided I would prefer to stick with the factory dampener, so went the route of playing with caster.
Photo from the test trip
View attachment 7847592
Looks sick! Does the light bar help with the wind noise of the rack at all?
 

LC0013

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Depending where you place it. This one works as shown and makes very little noise.
I’ve added rubber strip into the fins on the back of the light bar previously to help too.
What is the brand of the light bar? Ineos offering?
 

Nishan

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Rear Storage / Drawers:
Off Road Systems were one of the first people that i heard had access to a Grenadier and would sell drawers, so being the impatient man i am, i bought them. They shipped them to me and i assembled and fitted them myself.
I went for a drawer fridge as i still wanted space on top of the drawers, plus it's easier for my lady to see into.

In the side/wing pockets of the drawers i was able to fit:

ARB twin compressor on the jack side, with room to get the jack past the compressor, just. plus switch and hose connection on the face just inside the small door. there is still room in that wing space for a little bag that's home to my hoses and inflators etc.

2000W invertor (240V) for coffee machine and an induction cooktop - this means no gas, so basically unlimited cooking power for longer trips

50A anderson accessory point. this is basically spare so i can run 12V to whatever i want. Eg a second fridge etc

Battery monitor for the Aux lithium, along with a solar input and a couple of USBs for phones etc.

Lastly i made a shelf for up the top of the cargo space, which you can read about in this post here: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/diy-rear-cargo-shelf.12414074/

Lightbar:
Full length roof racks have light bars on the front, big ones. Thats just how the world works.
I went with 50" ST-X bar from stedi, attached to the rack with their LED mounts

i wired it to the RHS front roof outlet, but wasn't happy having it on the overhead switch. So i found the relay that runs the ext2 circuit (pictured) then cut the trigger wire to it so i could attach a new one (so the overhead switch no longer works). I took a power feed off the front spotlights on the grille and ran the wire through the firewall and along the sill to get it under the back seat. Then I joined it to the relay where I had cut the old trigger wire off.
Now the overhead light switches on and off at the same time the front ones do.
Lightbar:
Full length roof racks have light bars on the front, big ones. Thats just how the world works.
I went with 50" ST-X bar from stedi, attached to the rack with their LED mounts

i wired it to the RHS front roof outlet, but wasn't happy having it on the overhead switch. So i found the relay that runs the ext2 circuit (pictured) then cut the trigger wire to it so i could attach a new one (so the overhead switch no longer works). I took a power feed off the front spotlights on the grille and ran the wire through the firewall and along the sill to get it under the back seat. Then I joined it to the relay where I had cut the old trigger wire off.
Now the overhead light switches on and off at the same time the front ones do. win!

Lightbar:
Full length roof racks have light bars on the front, big ones. Thats just how the world works.
I went with 50" ST-X bar from stedi, attached to the rack with their LED mounts

i wired it to the RHS front roof outlet, but wasn't happy having it on the overhead switch. So i found the relay that runs the ext2 circuit (pictured) then cut the trigger wire to it so i could attach a new one (so the overhead switch no longer works). I took a power feed off the front spotlights on the grille and ran the wire through the firewall and along the sill to get it under the back seat. Then I joined it to the relay where I had cut the old trigger wire off.
Now the overhead light switches on and off at the same time the front ones do. win!
Hi Mate,
What do you mean by trigger wire?. Is it overhead on/off switch for front driving lights.(OEM)?. I bought 4" Narva driving lights with builtin relays. Harnes has only power and hibeam trigger. Did you use overhead switch wire as a hibeam trigger?
Thanks
 

ninetubes

Grenadier Owner
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Hi Mate,
What do you mean by trigger wire?. Is it overhead on/off switch for front driving lights.(OEM)?. I bought 4" Narva driving lights with builtin relays. Harnes has only power and hibeam trigger. Did you use overhead switch wire as a hibeam trigger?
Thanks
By trigger wire, I mean the wire that triggers, switches, or actuates the relay. Not its power feed, just the switch wire.
My overhead spotlight switch works as per factory. But now when the factory spots light up, so does the roof light.
I did this by taking a feed from the spotlights positive connection. This power wire is only live when the factory spotlights are illuminated. I then connected this into the EXT2 25A relay.
So now that relay no longer switches on off by the roof ext2 switch.
That relay now switches on and off the moment the factory spotlights do, so in effect the factory spotlights and the roof light bar now operate in parallel, together, as one, at the same moment in time.
I hope this answers your question
 
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