NATO socket peculiarity

[Tomdoc]

Certainly do!
For location reference that's the auxiliary battery in this pic.

In this bundle (green circle) there are three wires with a plastic cap over each. One is earth, one is constant +12v, the 3rd is ignition switched +12v. You only need the switched +12v.
I think from memory you need the white wire but confirm with a voltmeter with ignition ON/OFF. I pushed a sewing pin through the plastic cap as a temporary probe.
Slice the cap off when you're ready. Don't cut the wire off behind the cap or you will be short on working space.

Keep in mind there may be a fix for the dead NATO socket with software update xx1946, so either wait for that to be confirmed, or know that you might be able to reverse your workaround later if this gets fixed by Ineos. Bottom line is don't do anything too permanent.

That is bloody clever and really useful - thanks for this.

 

[Aussie Battler]

Tom. I should have read your post a while ago as i have just worked out exactly the same. Now i know the constraints of the relay clicking out then i can probably work within this. However it would be good to know if there is an easy fix for this to increase it to say 70mph. Clearly you could run another couple of cables to the hot side of the relay but don't really want to do this. If there is any updates would be useful. Had 2 software updates in the last few months and still the same.

The simpleest method of activating the NATO is to remove the cable from the plug to the live cable on the relay , the plug wil alwas be live but that se not a problem as I have live anderson plugs on 2 of my landrovers and never had a issue