NATO socket peculiarity

[Tom D]

It appears that when you reach 52 Mph the NATO socket switches itself off. Not sure why but it’s consistent. It’s pretty annoying as if you are using it to charge a second battery on a trailer once you get on the open road it will de-energise. Maybe this will have to be a fix in the next software update.

 

[anand]

52MPH, roughly 83KPH... what an odd speed to turn off

 

[Tom109]

52MPH, roughly 83KPH... what an odd speed to turn off

That’s when the torque converter locks on my D1 and RRC.

 

[Tazzieman]

52MPH, roughly 83KPH... what an odd speed to turn off

They don't want anyone using the rear winch at higher speeds

 

[DenisM]

It appears that when you reach 52 Mph the NATO socket switches itself off. Not sure why but it’s consistent. It’s pretty annoying as if you are using it to charge a second battery on a trailer once you get on the open road it will de-energise. Maybe this will have to be a fix in the next software update.

?Reduction in alternator output -> less demand on engine -> lower emissions......... or not.. which means that if it's "deliberate", then there will probably be no change to the software ...

 

[anand]

?Reduction in alternator output -> less demand on engine -> lower emissions......... or not.. which means that if it's "deliberate", then there will probably be no change to the software ...

Or simply bypass the control to the relay to a physical switch and the problem is solved

 

[AnD3rew]

The NATO socket was only ever intended to be used with a rear winch. We are all trying to do stuff with it it was never designed for. I am going to jump an Anderson plug from the hot side of the NATO solenoid under the rear trim and run to rear of the car fo a more traditional setup.

 

[AnD3rew]

The NATO socket was only ever intended to be used with a rear winch. We are all trying to do stuff with it it was never designed for. I am going to jump an Anderson plug from the hot side of the NATO solenoid under the rear trim and run to rear of the car fo a more traditional setup.

Others here have detailed how to take a wire from the spare ignition wire in the battery compartment to run to the NATO solenoid to trigger it to be on whenever the ignition is on.

 

[James]

It appears that when you reach 52 Mph the NATO socket switches itself off. Not sure why but it’s consistent. It’s pretty annoying as if you are using it to charge a second battery on a trailer once you get on the open road it will de-energise. Maybe this will have to be a fix in the next software update.

Clearly russian hackers disabling NATO mobile missile launching facility - great catch

 

[James]

The NATO socket was only ever intended to be used with a rear winch. We are all trying to do stuff with it it was never designed for. I am going to jump an Anderson plug from the hot side of the NATO solenoid under the rear trim and run to rear of the car fo a more traditional setup.

Might it be worth removing the nato plug, in favour of an Andersen? Just a thought, havent looked at what would be involved, but given the size and cost of nato compatible plugs….
youd still want to ver-ride the switching in favour of ignition on condition, or possibly even use the internal ‘power’ ceiling switch to trigger the relay, for camping power?

 

[AnD3rew]

Might it be worth removing the nato plug, in favour of an Andersen? Just a thought, havent looked at what would be involved, but given the size and cost of nato compatible plugs….
youd still want to ver-ride the switching in favour of ignition on condition, or possibly even use the internal ‘power’ ceiling switch to trigger the relay, for camping power?

As I understand the setup, switching on the ceiling 500amp switch would give you power to the hot side of the solenoid all the time. Its the other conditional stuff like engine running, D,N or R and speed etc which control the solenoid to send power to the plug. I quite like the idea of the NATO plug and I already have plugs and adapters made up for it and even a set of jumper cables that will plug into it. But for towing a camper trailer I want a standard 50amp Anderson

 

[James]

As I understand the setup, switching on the ceiling 500amp switch would give you power to the hot side of the solenoid all the time. Its the other conditional stuff like engine running, D,N or R and speed etc which control the solenoid to send power to the plug. I quite like the idea of the NATO plug and I already have plugs and adapters made up for it and even a set of jumper cables that will plug into it. But for towing a camper trailer I want a standard 50amp Anderson

Didnit know that, thought you needed all those conditions and the switch; good to know. Thx.

 

[Clark Kent]

It appears that when you reach 52 Mph the NATO socket switches itself off. Not sure why but it’s consistent. It’s pretty annoying as if you are using it to charge a second battery on a trailer once you get on the open road it will de-energise. Maybe this will have to be a fix in the next software update.

As I understand the setup, switching on the ceiling 500amp switch would give you power to the hot side of the solenoid all the time. Its the other conditional stuff like engine running, D,N or R and speed etc which control the solenoid to send power to the plug. I quite like the idea of the NATO plug and I already have plugs and adapters made up for it and even a set of jumper cables that will plug into it. But for towing a camper trailer I want a standard 50amp Anderson

The hot side of the solenoid is direct to the battery via the 350A fuse in the 5-way Littelfuse block. I am activating the NATO solenoid using the ignition wire from the 40A underseat 'compressor' circuit. Key on = NATO socket on. I have also replaced the 350A fuse with a 60A fuse since I'm not powering all of NATO.
This suggests the 500A switch is in series with the other logic switches to energize the control side of the solenoid when all other conditions are met.

I marked the wires when I was doing the solenoid activation mod plus running in the brake controller circuit.

 

[Zacman110]

The hot side of the solenoid is direct to the battery via the 350A fuse in the 5-way Littelfuse block. I am activating the NATO solenoid using the ignition wire from the 40A underseat 'compressor' circuit. Key on = NATO socket on. I have also replaced the 350A fuse with a 60A fuse since I'm not powering all of NATO.
This suggests the 500A switch is in series with the other logic switches to energize the control side of the solenoid when all other conditions are met.

I marked the wires when I was doing the solenoid activation mod plus running in the brake controller circuit.

Very clever

 

[Tom D]

I might have to do the same. It’s a shame that all the overhead switches seem to go through the BCM. Why can’t they be wired directly?

 

[tristand]

The only overhead switches that go through the bcm are the winch and main power switches. The 10A (standard) ones are switched directly by the overhead switches, the 25A (additional) ones are switched through relays controlled by the overhead switches.

 

[Znarfgh]

The hot side of the solenoid is direct to the battery via the 350A fuse in the 5-way Littelfuse block. I am activating the NATO solenoid using the ignition wire from the 40A underseat 'compressor' circuit. Key on = NATO socket on. I have also replaced the 350A fuse with a 60A fuse since I'm not powering all of NATO.
This suggests the 500A switch is in series with the other logic switches to energize the control side of the solenoid when all other conditions are met.

I marked the wires when I was doing the solenoid activation mod plus running in the brake controller circuit.

Do you have an image of the 40A under seat compressor circuit to make it easier for me to identify? Thanks for the image of the reconfigure - very helpful.

 

[Clark Kent]

Do you have an image of the 40A under seat compressor circuit to make it easier for me to identify? Thanks for the image of the reconfigure - very helpful.

Certainly do!
For location reference that's the auxiliary battery in this pic.

In this bundle (green circle) there are three wires with a plastic cap over each. One is earth, one is constant +12v, the 3rd is ignition switched +12v. You only need the switched +12v.
I think from memory you need the white wire but confirm with a voltmeter with ignition ON/OFF. I pushed a sewing pin through the plastic cap as a temporary probe.
Slice the cap off when you're ready. Don't cut the wire off behind the cap or you will be short on working space.

Keep in mind there may be a fix for the dead NATO socket with software update xx1946, so either wait for that to be confirmed, or know that you might be able to reverse your workaround later if this gets fixed by Ineos. Bottom line is don't do anything too permanent.

 

[PC01]

It appears that when you reach 52 Mph the NATO socket switches itself off. Not sure why but it’s consistent. It’s pretty annoying as if you are using it to charge a second battery on a trailer once you get on the open road it will de-energise. Maybe this will have to be a fix in the next software update.

Tom. I should have read your post a while ago as i have just worked out exactly the same. Now i know the constraints of the relay clicking out then i can probably work within this. However it would be good to know if there is an easy fix for this to increase it to say 70mph. Clearly you could run another couple of cables to the hot side of the relay but don't really want to do this. If there is any updates would be useful. Had 2 software updates in the last few months and still the same.

 

[Tom D]

Tom. I should have read your post a while ago as i have just worked out exactly the same. Now i know the constraints of the relay clicking out then i can probably work within this. However it would be good to know if there is an easy fix for this to increase it to say 70mph. Clearly you could run another couple of cables to the hot side of the relay but don't really want to do this. If there is any updates would be useful. Had 2 software updates in the last few months and still the same.

I think you could take a feed to the relay from one of the other switches, There’s a wire close by that would do..