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NATO Plug,Socket

Clark Kent

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That's a great result! Thanks for sharing.

Did you end up replacing the 350A fuse with a 60A one?
Thank you.
I have the 60A fuse and will swap it out this weekend when I have the batteries disconnected (finishing off my brake controller installation).
 

Tazzieman

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Nice package.
Made in China, but to a required standard.
Quality gear inside.
They have their own factory/QC , and suspension/electrics/gas fitting all done here. And I'm speccing the quality Jap bearings.
Word is people choose JAWA as they are the least Chinesey of the bunch.
Couldn't justify spending alnost double for Oz made.
 

bakepl

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Similar to Clark but rather stepped down some 2awg cable I had spare to fit the Anderson pins. I'll be a bit sharper with my cable lengths next time.. :D

into anderson2.jpg
final.jpg
 

Tom109

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They have their own factory/QC , and suspension/electrics/gas fitting all done here. And I'm speccing the quality Jap bearings.
Word is people choose JAWA because JAWA !
Couldn't justify spending alnost double for Oz made.
Fixed.
:ROFLMAO:
 

DCPU

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Similar to Clark but rather stepped down some 2awg cable I had spare to fit the Anderson pins.
Is that some form of step down butt connector?
 

bakepl

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Is that some form of step down butt connector?
No, trimmed the large cable down to fit the Anderson pin and re-sleaved with dual wall shrink tube. Had some liquid rubber to help seal the soldered pin. I may cut the Anderson off my caravan and attach the Nato plug directly but this will suffice for now.

trimmed down.jpg
into anderson.jpg
liquid rubber.jpg
 

Rok_Dr

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Right, that's done. One NATO to 50A Anderson adapter.

Turns out I'm a bit of an engineering masochist. This was the hard way to hang an Anderson plug on the back of my vehicle. I knew that before I went down this path and acknowledged it earlier in this thread. If you're similarly determined to make use of the NATO socket you paid for then go ahead.

I think there is a fairly small interest group for this. Pics tell most of the story, plus:
  • Elke NATO plug with 50mm2 contacts for 2AWG cable
  • I made two spacers from a piece of copper rod. 10.5mm OD. 7mm ID. 14mm long.
  • I filled the cavity in the backing grommet with 13mm plastic barbed end plugs from my garden shed (example), after first drilling a 7mm hole in the end and taking off the peg tab. The barbs completely seal the grommet. This worked better than I expected. I added some heat shrink to tighten up the fit and protect the insulation.
  • The spacers were tinned then soldered into the NATO male contacts to step down from 2AWG to 6AWG.
  • The 6AWG cable was dip-soldered into the contacts at each end. I prefer to crimp but the NATO contacts are LARGE!
  • The finished length will place the Anderson horizontal in the run to my camper. I have also put a new Anderson on my camper so it's fresh.
Thanks @Clark Kent. I really liked your retic barb idea. Was there any particular reason you used the 50mm2 contacts rather than the 35mm2 ones? Mu understanding is that the male pins are the same diameter, but the apature hole at the back is smaller for the 35mm2 pins compared to the 50mm2 pins.

Cheres

Steve
 

Clark Kent

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Hi Steve. Yep. They're the same size at the pointy end.
35mm2 contacts would have left too little wall thickness in the spacer with a 7mm ID for the 6AWG cable so I gave myself some extra space by using the 50mm2 contacts.
 

Clark Kent

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Thank you.
I have the 60A fuse and will swap it out this weekend when I have the batteries disconnected (finishing off my brake controller installation).
I've had a fail on the 60A fuse downgrade. Declaring my error up front in case anyone else is doing the same modification.

Ineos supplied the 5-way Littelfuse block (reference) with a mix of M8, M10 and M6 block studs. Of course I didn't pay enough attention to this when I ordered a 60A fuse to replace the 350A fuse. The 350A fuse uses an M10 stud. The 60A fuse uses an M8 stud.

I'm working on a solution. An 80A M10 fuse is an option but I would prefer a lower rating. The M6-M10 studs are available but not a lot of outlets stock them.
 

TheDocAUS

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So does that mean the 5 and 7 stud busbar uses M10 bolts?
 

Clark Kent

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The 5-way is a mix of M6, M8 and M10.
Swe-Check doesn't stock M10 fuses and cannot supply the studs.
I haven't checked the 7-way. Will look this afternoon.
Pic L to R: M8, M8, M10, M6, -
 

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TheDocAUS

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The 5-way is a mix of M6, M8 and M10.
Swe-Check doesn't stock M10 fuses and cannot supply the studs.
I haven't checked the 7-way. Will look this afternoon.
Pic L to R: M8, M8, M10, M6, -
That matches another image I saw. So why not change out the stud suitable for the 60 amp fuse?
 

DaveB

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The 5-way is a mix of M6, M8 and M10.
Swe-Check doesn't stock M10 fuses and cannot supply the studs.
I haven't checked the 7-way. Will look this afternoon.
Pic L to R: M8, M8, M10, M6, -
Have a look on Fuseco site as well.
I haven't looked but I distribute for Fuseco and they have a similar range to Swe-check, maybe a bit larger.
 

Clark Kent

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That matches another image I saw. So why not change out the stud suitable for the 60 amp fuse?
If I can find a reseller of the studs I will do that. Littelfuse PN 908-067 (M8) and 908-068 (M10).
I will also populate the empty position 5 with an M8 stud.
 

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