NA Trailer Brake Controller Install

[Clark Kent]

Hi,
New to a Grenadier and very new to forums.
I am in Perth, Western Australia.
I have been reading and re-reading this post over and over as I am picking up a Trial Master next week and I am going to attempt the tow pro install myself.
I can see that the violet/orange cable is not working as a 12v on or off to the brake controller.
Is this the same violet/orange core in the photo on page 7 at the trailer brake module loom as pernsdorff's post?
View attachment 7889763

And if it is, can I just cut the cable violet/orange core, heat shrink the end going to the TBM, install a diode in-line and splice it into the blue/orange cable?
Then I can still utilize the cable that was run to under the passenger rear seat.
View attachment 7889760
Or are people just running a new conductor?
As I have not got a car to look at just yet, I am doing a lot of research and planning.

And the second question I have, if there is no cable run to pin 12 in the trailer plug, and the pins are hard to source, I am looking at purchasing a whole new euro plug with all the pins fitted.
Does the grey wire come out somewhere in the loom at the trailer plug on the rear of the car, or do I have to run a conductor out from the cabin?
I was going to change the trailer socket to a large 7 pin round style but have also been reading that the euro style is pretty good too, so will leave it be for the time being.

Thanks,
Ken

Hi @Kenny, welcome to the forum.

This thread is for the US and Canadian markets (NA is North America). Aus spec vehicles have different wiring.

Redarc make a specific installation kit for the Grenadier if you want to go that way. It includes the missing pins for the euro socket. Otherwise the pins are available and it's a fairly conventional installation if you have done a Towpro before.
I picked up power from under the rear seat and tapped into the trailer harness under the right side rear trim panel to connect the brake light trigger and install the diode. I ran a new wire through to the euro socket and installed a new pin in position 12.

There is some info on this in the unofficial owners supplement available from here. An excellent resource. Since you're also in Perth you should hit up @Rok_Dr (Steve) for a signed copy

Probably easiest to wait until your vehicle has been delivered then you will have something to look at.

 

[rur42]

Hi,
New to a Grenadier and very new to forums.
I am in Perth, Western Australia.
I have been reading and re-reading this post over and over as I am picking up a Trial Master next week and I am going to attempt the tow pro install myself.
I can see that the violet/orange cable is not working as a 12v on or off to the brake controller.
Is this the same violet/orange core in the photo on page 7 at the trailer brake module loom as pernsdorff's post?
View attachment 7889763

And if it is, can I just cut the cable violet/orange core, heat shrink the end going to the TBM, install a diode in-line and splice it into the blue/orange cable?
Then I can still utilize the cable that was run to under the passenger rear seat.
View attachment 7889760
Or are people just running a new conductor?
As I have not got a car to look at just yet, I am doing a lot of research and planning.

And the second question I have, if there is no cable run to pin 12 in the trailer plug, and the pins are hard to source, I am looking at purchasing a whole new euro plug with all the pins fitted.
Does the grey wire come out somewhere in the loom at the trailer plug on the rear of the car, or do I have to run a conductor out from the cabin?
I was going to change the trailer socket to a large 7 pin round style but have also been reading that the euro style is pretty good too, so will leave it be for the time being.

Thanks,
Ken

Not sure if the wiring is different in the US version, or the coloring is the same... and I can't remember what the colors actually were since I did this last year... but baring that disclaimer, I did a continuity test on a friend of mine's Gren and the wire on the brake module end is the same one under the seat. We did exactly as you proposed, instead of running new wire we cut into the (supposed) violet/orange and connected it with the (supposed) blue/orange. The brakes, and the controller, all worked fine after that. If you get the harness off the brake module, it's pretty easy to do the continuity test yourself and confirm.

 

[Rok_Dr]

@Kenny. Welcome to the forum as well.

I can only echo @Clark Kent's, comments and there is a lot more detail in my manual which explains things further. Trailer service brakes have been an issues in OZ but for different reasons to the US market. Some headline bullet points though.

• Wiring for NAS market cars is different to other markets. They have combined brake/indicator lights, ours are separate. They also and use a 7 pin round blade plug whereas we have the 13pin EU plug which is missing 3 pins.
• My research indicates that the wiring of ROW (rest of world) MY23 and MY24 vehicles is different. MY24 vehicles have trailer brake wiring provision under the rear seat, in MY23 vehicles this was a 40amp ignition switched outlet as INEOS had originally considered fitting a compressor there.
• I suspect that the Australian Redarc Grenadier electric brake kit may need to be connected to different wiring points compared to the MY23 vehicles that I and Clark Kent have.
• Though I may stand corrected the issues in this thread seem to be only present in NAS market vehicles.
• I would strongly recommend having a chat to Magics Service Manager Alex when you pick up the vehicle and he may be able to advise further regarding wiring connections and provide more accurate information. The forum is a valuable resource but almost all the knowledge here is from personal experiences and reverse engineering as INEOS still haven't released any workshop manuals or even basic maintenance procedures.
• If all else fails Magic should by now have a recommended auto sparky who can fit it for you.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Kenny]

Thank you for your replies.
I’ll need to get my work done quick tonight so that i can spend the rest of the shift reading some more.

 

[LWA55DAL]

I asked the same question and never got a response as I don’t think anyone knows. I think it is likely the same wire running from the control module to the blunt cut under the seat but it may also run somewhere else so most people have just tapped into the blue/orange to get the brake signal and then run a new wire to the controller.

I think what you asked was just cutting the blue/orange and tapping right into the violet orange so you don’t have to run another wire? If so - that’s what I’d do but haven’t confirmed it doesn’t go anywhere else. Yes - you do need the diode in that installation.

Can’t help on the plug question as we only have the 7 pin in the US.

 

[anand]

I think it is likely the same wire running from the control module to the blunt cut under the seat but it may also run somewhere else so most people have just tapped into the blue/orange to get the brake signal and then run a new wire to the controller.

This is correct... I have it written somewhere as far as which pin is each, but technically you can simply jump blue/orange wire that is the brake signal into the tow module to the output wire that runs to the blunt cut under the back seat, and the brake controller would work.