NA Trailer Brake Controller Install

[LeeroyJ]

I'll preface this by saying that I have not seen any wiring diagrams or technical papers/flow charts on this

But from what I can tell the towing control module (I think the factory term for it is the TRM) sits on the right rear fender and subsequently handles the output for the 7 pin connector. When it detects that a trailer is connected (I'm not positive of the logic sequence used by Ineos, but other brands use a load detection across any of the light circuits) it should engage several different logic changes in the vehicle. Again, I haven't seen any specific technical charts on this to confirm, but based on other vehicles these changes could include adjustments to the ESP/ABS algorithms (for sway control), turning off the rear parking sensors, etc. The programming in this module dictates whether the vehicle has the 7 pin (US) or 13 pin (I think this is right?) Euro connector and of course what/how the outputs are triggered.

My assumption on which module it is exists primarily because it has a wiring harness that runs out of the vehicle through the adjacent grommet, and not every photo I've seen has had this module (it is unrelated to having the relay for the NATO plug). Regardless of where it is, it most certainly exists, as it is the primary module that was received new software with the US update to allow the hitch installs.

In the case of retrofitting a towing hitch after production, the most likely way would be to install the physical receiver, and then grab triggers for the lighting functions from the taillights (I say triggers because you would want to relay all of these as to not place additional load on those circuits); I believe there are kits that are sold to do this to vehicles that don't have factory trailer connector wiring, of course the vehicle would never "know" there was a trailer. I'm not sure what the possibility is of retrofitting the module, at the very least I imagine it would require dealer programming to code it to the vehicle/region, and that is if the harnesses are pre-run to the module. Then of course you would require the rest of the wiring from the module to the trailer plug.

From what I have been able to deduct after way too much internet searching, while the "towing" module may (and speaking from experience does) change some of the driving performance and operations of the Grenadier itself, it does not allow you to adjust the level of electric braking going to the trailer.

In other words, if you pull a trailer without brakes, connect it electrically through the factory 7 pin connection, the module that is in the Grenadier that came from the factory with the tow package, will sense that you are towing, and make adjustments to the vehicle's operation. It will power the trailer lights and signals. If you pull a trailer with electric trailer brakes, the Grenadier will make the same adjustments to the vehicle's operation, also power the trailer lighting, but it will not engage the electric trailer brakes.

To engage the electric trailer brakes, you need a third party brake controller.

That seems to be the consensus and seems to be supported by the fact that Ineos provided that wiring even for people (like me) who ordered those with the factory tow option.

 

[anand]

From what I have been able to deduct after way too much internet searching, while the "towing" module may (and speaking from experience does) change some of the driving performance and operations of the Grenadier itself, it does not allow you to adjust the level of electric braking going to the trailer.

In other words, if you pull a trailer without brakes, connect it electrically through the factory 7 pin connection, the module that is in the Grenadier that came from the factory with the tow package, will sense that you are towing, and make adjustments to the vehicle's operation. It will power the trailer lights and signals. If you pull a trailer with electric trailer brakes, the Grenadier will make the same adjustments to the vehicle's operation, also power the trailer lighting, but it will not engage the electric trailer brakes.

To engage the electric trailer brakes, you need a third party brake controller.

That seems to be the consensus and seems to be supported by the fact that Ineos provided that wiring even for people (like me) who ordered those with the factory tow option.

Correct, trailer brakes are controlled by a separate trailer brake controller; the trailer module does nothing to activate trailer brakes

 

[[ Adam ]]

Most mide size SUV's (based on my limited exposure) do not have integrated trailer brakes. That tends to be a pickup truck option, and starts becoming standard on 2500+

 

[ScottnAZ]

For the waxy material that is on the end of the wires in the Grenadier, what's the best way to remove that material? I thought about just cutting and then stripping, but the wires are already pretty short so I would rather not make them any shorter.

I stripped it as is, meaning I acted as if the coating was just part of the wire shield. Stripped it, used butt connectors, and heat shrink over it all. (Remember to put the heat shrink on before connecting the wires ).

 

[ScottnAZ]

HI ScottnAZ, Love for you to document your ARB install on the right rear boot panel. I just picked one up and that is where I would also like to install mine. I have seen the installs on the left boot panel and they look nice and tucked in, however you are having to sacrifice the jack location and more. Details and photos would be great. Love to know where and how you are connecting to the main power source too. DaBulll

I’m sorry I missed this message DaBull. Unfortunately, I didn’t document any of the install; just kinda got after it, and got it done. Am happy with the install.

 

[LWA55DAL]

To add a little to the discussion. I wired in a RedArc Tow Pro Elite trailer brake controller other night to the 4 wires under the seat next to the auxiliary battery and it works great. I have not installed the switch yet as I am still trying to determine the final location. From what I have read, every vehicles in the US has the 4 wires under the seat, with or without the tow package.

That said, you should be able to put the two hitch on any vehicle without the tow package and tow a trailer WITHOUT BRAKES by simply tapping into the light circuits (lights, brakes and turn signals). This has been done for MANY years without any issues by many people, but you absolutely need the other inputs from a 7 pin to be able to use a trailer with brakes and the typical 7 pin ALSO includes an auxiliary power input to charge the trailer break-away battery.

My guess is that all of the wiring for the 7 pin is likely in the rear panel and all you need is the wire loom and plug to install the 7 pin plug, but apparently INEOS is not offering that as a kit. My guess is you could likely track it down via the parts diagram and just order the parts and install.

It is possible that you may miss some trailer sway controls, etc, but I honestly doubt it.

 

[archerwolf]

I’m sorry I missed this message DaBull. Unfortunately, I didn’t document any of the install; just kinda got after it, and got it done. Am happy with the install.
View attachment 7856024

Scott,

I love where you put the ARB air outlet and switch. Very clean. Where did you put the air compressor body???

 

[MarkgreSC]

Just to share info ... found this pic / post in another area that shows the "back" of the tail light and has pin location and info for what wires do what at that point. And this module may be the answer to grabbing the "feed" without overloading the factory wires. Any thoughts from those of you who know what you are doing? Not all you need, but some clues.

 

[anand]

Well that's pretty neat and it should work quite well! Only requiring you to run a power wire to the battery and there are tons of factory grounds to use

 

[RobS]

6. the overhead panel is in 2 parts-

Face plate is easy enough to take off. I then removed the two most rearward black screws on the switch mounting plate. Is the plate held in place with clips similar to the face plate? Appreciate your assistance. Thanks

 

[RobS]

Never mind. I figured it out. Held in place with clips. Panel pops out from back to front. The front is hinged.

 

[BenTN]

Thought I would post my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite "Remote Head Assembly" (control knob) mounting solution here on this thread.

I didn't want to drill holes in interior panels if I didn't have to. I had already designed this 3D-printed cup holder overlay and installed it on my console. There is an un-used area near the e-brake pivot that seemed perfect for locating the Remote Head. I added a snap-in mount location to the side of the cup holder and I'm very happy with the result. It is easy to see and operate, but it is recessed well below the console cubby lid so it is not easily bumped by accident.

I made the mount so that the Remote Head snaps into place when mounted in the included Redarc "Switch Insert Panel", and the wire routes directly back towards the rear seat under the floor panels. I still needed to buy the 6.5ft extended wiring kit from Redarc (kit comes with 3ft), but that easily reached to the Main Unit mounted under the back seat near the factory trailer brake controller wires.

I will make this STL file available in the forum Resources section if there is interest.

 

[ScottnAZ]

Thought I would post my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite "Remote Head Assembly" (control knob) mounting solution here on this thread.

I didn't want to drill holes in interior panels if I didn't have to. I had already designed this 3D-printed cup holder overlay and installed it on my console. There is an un-used area near the e-brake pivot that seemed perfect for locating the Remote Head. I added a snap-in mount location to the side of the cup holder and I'm very happy with the result. It is easy to see and operate, but it is recessed well below the console cubby lid so it is not easily bumped by accident.

I made the mount so that the Remote Head snaps into place when mounted in the included Redarc "Switch Insert Panel", and the wire routes directly back towards the rear seat under the floor panels. I still needed to buy the 6.5ft extended wiring kit from Redarc (kit comes with 3ft), but that easily reached to the Main Unit mounted under the back seat near the factory trailer brake controller wires.

I will make this STL file available in the forum Resources section if there is interest.

View attachment 7856898 View attachment 7856900

View attachment 7856899

Well done !

 

[RobS]

@BenTN Great solution and terrific placement. Nice!

I installed mine over the weekend.

 

[Lars]

I''m still confused whether the brake trigger wire of the 4 wires under the seat is functional after the tow package install and software update. Some here say no, but others are posting they've added brake controllers with no problems.
I tried testing the wire by applying the brake and testing for any voltage. Didn't get any, so I assume it's not working. Do you suppose it has to be in Drive to work? It's all software driven, so who knows how it works.

 

[AZGrenadier]

Thought I would post my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite "Remote Head Assembly" (control knob) mounting solution here on this thread.

I didn't want to drill holes in interior panels if I didn't have to. I had already designed this 3D-printed cup holder overlay and installed it on my console. There is an un-used area near the e-brake pivot that seemed perfect for locating the Remote Head. I added a snap-in mount location to the side of the cup holder and I'm very happy with the result. It is easy to see and operate, but it is recessed well below the console cubby lid so it is not easily bumped by accident.

I made the mount so that the Remote Head snaps into place when mounted in the included Redarc "Switch Insert Panel", and the wire routes directly back towards the rear seat under the floor panels. I still needed to buy the 6.5ft extended wiring kit from Redarc (kit comes with 3ft), but that easily reached to the Main Unit mounted under the back seat near the factory trailer brake controller wires.

I will make this STL file available in the forum Resources section if there is interest.

View attachment 7856898 View attachment 7856900

View attachment 7856899

This is super cool. I have the cup mount which is amazing already but do you think you could leave both sides open like you have on the passenger side. With the lip on it it still holds a Nalgene perfect but I can’t put a coffee on the other side. That leaves my wife thirsty.

 

[Funder]

Thought I would post my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite "Remote Head Assembly" (control knob) mounting solution here on this thread.

I didn't want to drill holes in interior panels if I didn't have to. I had already designed this 3D-printed cup holder overlay and installed it on my console. There is an un-used area near the e-brake pivot that seemed perfect for locating the Remote Head. I added a snap-in mount location to the side of the cup holder and I'm very happy with the result. It is easy to see and operate, but it is recessed well below the console cubby lid so it is not easily bumped by accident.

I made the mount so that the Remote Head snaps into place when mounted in the included Redarc "Switch Insert Panel", and the wire routes directly back towards the rear seat under the floor panels. I still needed to buy the 6.5ft extended wiring kit from Redarc (kit comes with 3ft), but that easily reached to the Main Unit mounted under the back seat near the factory trailer brake controller wires.

I will make this STL file available in the forum Resources section if there is interest.

View attachment 7856898 View attachment 7856900

View attachment 7856899

Yes please if you haven’t posted the controller mount STL in the resources section already it would be appreciated when you got a moment. I did look but didn’t find, I apologize if I missed. Also, is it possible to use the controller holder without the cup holder? Again a very nice innovative solution.

 

[GrenADV]

I got inspired by everyone here and found a cool spot for the remote controller. I still have to terminate the wires under the rear seat, but I feel like the hard part is done!

 

[Tjhappel]

Well that will be disappointing and surprising. The manual indicates that if you have the tow package, it's wired to accommodate your trailer's brakes, if so equipped (even though it does not specifically say that). But since the manual provides the weight capacities for both a trailer equipped with brakes, and without brakes, combined with no mention of a 3rd party controller required, I struggle to believe an aftermarket controller is actually required to activate the trailer brakes. I've got an inquiry to my dealer about this and will report back when I get a response.

It’s wired for it, you still need to add a box or the new Bluetooth units that go from the trailer plug. They work well

 

[DezRoamer]

Just finished installing and testing a trailer brake controller on our NA Grenadier.

Went with the Redarc EBRH-ACCV3-NA Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller; as suggested by Mark @ Redarc. This is the same unit we had on our Defender.

I also needed to order a longer remote wire to move the remote head to the front dash area for mounting. The extension hasn’t arrived yet, so for now the remote is strung to sit between the drivers seat and the center console: RHWK-004 13ft Tow-Pro Elite Remote Head Wiring Kit.

On to the wiring…..

1. Under the back seat, on the passenger side, you will find 4 random wires for the brake controller.

View attachment 7848403

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)

I simply zip tied the head unit to the bracket under the seat. (Although, now I realize I’ll have to move it when I install the air compressor.

View attachment 7848404

Then we went out for a test cruise around town, and the freeway. The Airsteam is 23’ and right about 6000 lbs, and we have a Pro Pride 3 weight distribution hitch. Everything seems to be working well. My initial impression is the Grenadier feels more planted than our 2020 Defender did, but it was simple flat towing around town. I am looking forward to our 1st official trip with this setup, and see how it does climbing some mountains/hills.

View attachment 7848405

Can you give an update on your towing experience pulling the Airstream.
It;s about the same size and weight of a trailer I'm contemplating buying.
If things work out I may even live in the set up for a couple years traveling around the US.

I'm looking at buying a Oliver Legacy II
Dry weight 4,900lbs
Tongue weight 490 Lbs
GVWR 7,000 lbs

I'm nervous about pulling a trailer that weighs so close to max tow rating.
Yes, I have many years of experience towing all kinds of trailers and RV's.


Thanks for the help.