Build Thread MallCrl 3.0

[[ Adam ]]

Awesome - looking forward to seeing you guys next week and hearing more.

I've been to multiple Nissan factories (Tochigi, Smyrna) and it is amazing to see vehicles built, and the craftsmanship that goes into them. The Smyrna tour was enough that I ended up buying a Frontier Pro-4X off the lot the next year.

 

[j3t3r]

I decided to just pop the Starlink Mini up top with 60lb pull magnets. It is mounted on a TRIO Flat mount. In lieu of the 15m (ish?) factory cable, I got a 5m cable on Amazon that has the same waterproof (weather resistant?) ends, which is just the right length to run from the front of the roof to the rear driver's side of the cargo area where my 24v converter is.

So, you are just running the wire through the rear drivers side of the cargo door? You haven’t drilled in the hole through the roof ? Or are you planning too?

How hard do you think it would be, or even possible to de the 24v converter wired into one of the pre wired outlets that on the roof that go to the aviation switches ?

 

[anand]

So, you are just running the wire through the rear drivers side of the cargo door? You haven’t drilled in the hole through the roof ? Or are you planning too?

How hard do you think it would be, or even possible to de the 24v converter wired into one of the pre wired outlets that on the roof that go to the aviation switches ?

Correct, the wires come down the side of the seal (on the vertical portion), have a drip loop at the bottom, and then come in over the seal.

It would definitely be possible to put the 24v converter into one of the roof openings, ideally you'd just have to trace the wiring down from the roof in the interior, and splice the 24v converter into it at some point

 

[j3t3r]

Correct, the wires come down the side of the seal (on the vertical portion), have a drip loop at the bottom, and then come in over the seal.

It would definitely be possible to put the 24v converter into one of the roof openings, ideally you'd just have to trace the wiring down from the roof in the interior, and splice the 24v converter into it at some point

And you are not finding the wires getting smashed in the door? (I’m having a hard time visualizing the routing.

 

[anand]

And you are not finding the wires getting smashed in the door? (I’m having a hard time visualizing the routing.

I'll grab some photos tomorrow; and no issues with them being "smashed" the seals have TONS of give to them. The driver's side has the Starlink cable and a RG58 (if memory serves me) for the UHF/VHF antenna; and the passenger's side has the WeBoost antenna as well as 3 16AWG, 1 18AWG, and 1 14AWG wires (roof lights)

 

[j3t3r]

The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

So there was power behind the rear view mirror ? I was hoping to use something like a Mirror Tap power cord to connect a radar detector.

 

[anand]

So there was power behind the rear view mirror ? I was hoping to use something like a Mirror Tap power cord to connect a radar detector.

I believe some have tapped off of the airbag lights or something else in the upper console, I ran new wires from a fuse block I added under the rear seat up the a-pillar to both the Valentine1 and the dash cam