Me too. However, I’m starting to think 255/85R17 is the optimal size, but only one tire exists.I agree that the 255/80/17 is an excellent tire size.
Me too. However, I’m starting to think 255/85R17 is the optimal size, but only one tire exists.I agree that the 255/80/17 is an excellent tire size.
I only flip up the base to work on electrical stuff usually. To get the base up and then the back down/flat requires sliding the seats forward a bit from their normal position.How can you fold your rear seats in the commercial position? I can’t do it in the regular position (flip the seat base and fold the seat) - it to darn tight.
Sure!
I cut a piece of 1/4" thick ABS plastic to the shape of the cut out, drilled a hole in the middle of it for the NOCO plug, installed the NOCO with self tappers into the plastic, then secured the panel to the existing holes with some stainless self tappers (through existing holes and tapping into the ABS sheet). The wiring is run above the exhaust heat shield to the passenger rear wheel well area, and then upwards and enters through the 2 port grommet in the wheel well (can be seen next to the jack in the driver's rear wheel well area)
Their socket is fully sealed and the only parts that are "exposed" are where the 120v plugs are themselves. Where my NOCO plugs into the wiring for my AC charger is exposed under the vehicle, but my thought process was A) I'll never be plugging in the truck when it's submerged in water up to the bumper; and B) Not sealing it in heat shrink to allow any possible water to drain out of the connection. I had the plugs for the AC chargers on my 4Runner and Tundra in the same fashion, and while fairly anecdotal, never had any issuesWhen I talked with them they said the plug is waterproof from both the front and back. Does that seem correct?
So, the question was how were you able to attach the drawer frame to the floor of the Gren? Or did you not feel it necessary? Thanks for all the info you provide, it really helps a novice.Some temporary (maybe?) updates, some building on previous updates, some actual updates....
Finally got around to installing my Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF radio... I bought this one over 2 years ago, expecting to install it into the Sprinter and never got around to it. It is MARS/CAP modded (which expands the TX/RX range to include commercial, GMRS, and others), and currently installed with a very temporary magnetic NMO mount on the rear of the roof.
The body of the unit is installed between the rear seat and the drawer system. There isn't enough depth to use the Icom mount, so instead it is protected on the bottom by two layers of 3M Minicell and currently held in place with a long strip of 3M VHB to the drawer skeleton. Don't mind the mess of wires, once I figure out if the air compressor is staying here or not I'll tidy the wiring up
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The head is mounted just to the left of the steering column, this makes the display easily readable by just tilting your head a little left of normal
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But where does the mic plug in? I have an extension run to the center console. I'm not thrilled with this positioning at all, and haven't installed the MagneticMic microphone holder yet either, so this may change. Also you can see my USB cable for my phone disappearing into the center console
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Next up is the ARB single air compressor. I've never had a single in any of my trucks, always either something non-ARB, or an ARB twin. My GF had a single in her Tacoma with no issues, and this single was/is actually destined for her Forester, but given that we're supposed to be having a bit of dirt therapy on Sunday, I wanted some OBA. It is mounted using the included ARB bracket to the skeleton of the drawer system, angled upwards slightly for clearance of the rear seat back and the wheel well plastic. I made do with what I had laying around from various previous installs, so I'm running a 3/8" airline back to a 6 outlet manifold that has just the pressure sensor and ARB quick coupler in it. I'll be moving the pressure sensor back to the outlet of the compressor and figuring out a way to just have the quick coupler at the back, but alas, I came up with this plan on the fly yesterday and Amazon is still contemplating whether any of their deliveries to us are going to ship/arrive today as promised.
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I also got the upper surface of the drawer system installed, it is 1/4" Aluminum composite panel. My last DIY box/drawer set up used actual aluminum as the top surface, but that was both a good bit of weight, and not quite the look I wanted so I figured I would try this material. We'll see how it holds up, but it arrived with two corners bent (they are at the rear-seat side) and got a bit of a scratch the first time I slid anything over it. Seems a bit ridiculous to carry all my stuff in a box on top of the drawer system, but since I don't have drawers yet...
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Finally, a purely aesthetic modification to my WeatherTech mats...
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The "forward" mounting positions go to the rear seat bolts (where the normal rear seat back bolts into). The "rear" mounting position I flubbed up and couldn't easily get to after the drawers, so that is handled by the side mounting bars since it also ties into both of the vertical tie down points on each sideSo, the question was how were you able to attach the drawer frame to the floor of the Gren? Or did you not feel it necessary? Thanks for all the info you provide, it really helps a novice.
Ooof! Thank you for making me realize I never uploaded a photo of the switch panel after putting the labels on! I'll grab one tomorrow...So for those of us a bit more 'mechanically challenged', I'm assuming you have a separate switch for the left, right, and rear exterior lights. If so, and wired through the factory roof outlets, how did you separate them on their own switches? I have been thinking about this as I take delivery on my truck in about a week, and really don't like the idea of all of them on one switch.
Thanks in advance!
Happy to help!Outstanding build thread! You have given me a TON of ideas!
Sound proofing helped, not night and day, but noticeable (I added too many variables in order for an "after" test to be valid unfortunately).Fantastic build anand. Thank you. Am interested in hearing how much the sound proofing has helped as well as your thoughts on the improved audio quality over stock?
Cheers
Love the threa. Got my IG about two weeks ago . My wife calls it the little Sprinter, alongside my 2019 Sprinter 4x4. I’m in the Olympic National Park, WA with my Sprinter right now. Working on IG build. Tires 255/80-17 Goodyear DuratracRT go on next week. Still undecided on rack. Like Buzz Overland but also like Owl Off-road. Buzz looks very flexible for tiedowns, but I like option with full deck to have full access to walk, sit, sleep on roof of Owl. DANHi @anand I'm very happy for you. He's finally here. You have big plans for the Grenadier. Great detailed description. Have fun with the extension and conversion. Enjoy your time with the Grenadier. But don't forget the Sprinter. Soon we'll both have these two excellent vehicles.
I have a Warn VR EVO 12-S sitting in a box in the garage, it'll be installed on Tuesday, along with the winch mount (LFD Off Road), LFD step sliders, and swapping over to the full length roof rack. A Factor55 FlatLink E and Factor55 Fairlead are also in the box awaiting installThanks for the writeup, curious to see what way you go on the winch.