Is the NATO plug wire to the starter battery or to the Aux battery/120 SmartPass?

[DCPU]

Yes I did and wouldn’t it be better to have all auxiliary loads connected to service battery so that starter battery didn’t need pulse charging?

Definitely, but I guess it depends what loads are run off the starter battery that you would prefer to have run off the service battery (and whether you could call them auxiliary loads) ~ bearing in mind those with just one battery don't get a choice!

With your setup, you have the choice to decide to run the load 3 ways:

1. Main battery
2. Smartpass output (feeding from service battery but with cutout protection)
3. Service battery

 

[DCPU]

If we go back to the thread question, I believe that my NATO socket plus a further 80A output are being fed directly from the auxiliary battery (so option 3. above).

 

[Logsplitter]

If we go back to the thread question, I believe that my NATO socket plus a further 80A output are being fed directly from the auxiliary battery (so option 3. above).

I suppose yours has been wired up differently because you don’t have a winch and can then use the NATO socket for different purposes other than winching when Ineos do a software update. I would have preferred the NATO socket wired to the service battery and permanently live if I was given a choice.

 

[Logsplitter]

Can we deduce from this that these are the possible wiring configurations? Single battery set up, , single battery with high load wiring, dual battery with a winch / high load wiring, dual battery with no winch but high load wiring and finally dual battery with no high load wiring. Of course all of these could have tow hitch wiring configured.

 

[DCPU]

I've just had another look at mine, but without remove any screws and prising away the trim panels. I'm now less convinced about the wiring configuration I've previously stated. However, I've also given up for the afternoon as the sprayer is out in the back field and I can taste it.

 

[DCPU]

I can’t quite get my head around it. From my understanding and following the cabling I can’t see that anything is connected to the service battery?

Just on the service/auxiliary battery and what is wired to it, this statement from the Ineos rep in the US was new to me with regard to the winch being able to be used with the engine off:

From the TFL video posted here:

Deeper Dive By TFL

Looks like Andre was holding back a little in the first TFL video... View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoR2n436UDU

www.theineosforum.com

 

[Jean Mercier]

I'll try to make some of my electrical set-up (I have a winch) but have the whole day work, so probably only tonight or tomorrow. I don’t promise I will be able to analyse it.

 

[AnD3rew]

So it appears that power to the NATO socket if you have high load is software conditional and not live at all times controlled by a relay under the trim on the right side in the rear load space. We hear rumours of a software fix but I don’t think we have any real confirmation of that. I am thinking that I would like to just bypass the relay and have permanently live but being an electrical and canbus novice can people see a problem with this? Will it damage anything, will it throw canbus errors?

 

[DCPU]

So it appears that power to the NATO socket if you have high load is software conditional and not live at all times controlled by a relay under the trim on the right side in the rear load space.

We hear rumours of a software fix but I don’t think we have any real confirmation of that.

We have "official" confirmation from Ineos Customer Services :

Post in thread 'NATO Plug,Socket' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/nato-plug-socket.12410957/post-1333184163

I am thinking that I would like to just bypass the relay and have permanently live but being an electrical and canbus novice can people see a problem with this? Will it damage anything, will it throw canbus errors?

I don't see how anyone can answer that without either understanding the operating philosophy (which isn't published); or having tried it and had no issues (although no immediate issues, doesn't mean they're not being logged somewhere and maybe biting later).

Instead of bypassing the relay, you could consider adding a separate switched live to energise the relay. Frustratingly, the relay is just visible under the trim panel with the fuel filler panel removed. It needs a removeable trim panel making for it.

 

[AnD3rew]

We have "official c confirmation from Ineos Customer Services :

Post in thread 'NATO Plug,Socket' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/nato-plug-socket.12410957/post-1333184163

I don't see how anyone can answer that without either understanding the operating philosophy (which isn't published); or having tried it and had no issues (although no immediate issues, doesn't mean they're not being logged somewhere and maybe biting later).

Instead of bypassing the relay, you could consider adding a separate switched live to energise the relay. Frustratingly, the relay is just visible under the trim panel with the fuel filler panel removed. It needs a removeable trim panel making for it.

That message from customer service is a hopeful sign, but until we know exactly how they implement it we don’t know if it solves the problem.

And yes I know that we won’t know for sure until someone tries it, but interested to hear opinions from anyone who knows a bit more about auto electrics, relays and canbus systems than I. Just shooting the while I patiently wait for my car to float slowly down the West Coast of Africa.