I present the Auto Start/Stop Temporary fix

[IslandFalconer]

corner torn from a business card works fine and is barely detectible

It does, but you don’t want it to slip in to the actual button housing. But that’s how I first did it.

 

[Commodore]

So, for everyone who wants Auto Start/Stop to stay off, I have a Jerry Rigged has worked for the last three days solution. I’d love to have longer term data, but 72 hours is what I have so far with no fault codes.

I bent a little sheet metal just thick enough to slid in under the button, than depressed the button, the Auto Start/Stop button now stays in the depressed position due to the friction of the little metal shim.

It is L shaped, so it can’t slip inside the button cavity.

I make no claim this is “good” or “not good” only that after 3 days it’s still in the “off” position.

Has anyone tried jumping the terminals on the back of the switch?

 

[IslandFalconer]

Has anyone tried jumping the terminals on the back of the switch?

Might work but getting to the back of the switch is not easy

 

[Commodore]

Might work but getting to the back of the switch is not easy

Guessing the center panel doesn't just pull off?

 

[Mad Hatter]

The whole panel is an integrated unit with a single connector.its a ‘line replaceable item’ in aero speak, you can’t access the back of the switch

 

[Mad Hatter]

I only know that because I saw one for sale on eBay!

 

[Eric]

I present my auto stop/start fix

 

[Dokatd]

I present my auto stop/start fix

Work smarter not harder! Joking but not really.

My G life has dramatically changed now that all
I have to worry about is the speed limit clicks.

 

[Mad Hatter]

The whole panel is an integrated unit with a single connector.its a ‘line replaceable item’ in aero speak, you can’t access the back of the switch

Here are the images

 

[Commodore]

Here are the imagesView attachment 7874561View attachment 7874562

It looks like there are screws holding the back cover on. I would think that you could jump the connectors for the switch where they attach to the PCB.

 

[Dokatd]

It looks like there are screws holding the back cover on. I would think that you could jump the connectors for the switch where they attach to the PCB.

You absolutely can, you can solder a jumper on the circuit board. But that would kill any potential warranty and make the change effectively permanent. Placing the small clip in the button face functionally is just as effective and allows you to revert back in case you have a service related to the panel in the future. I will try to snap a pic of mine and post it, you really would have a hard time noticing it and it works 100% of the time.

But sure, once warranty expires I would be more likely to remove the panel and make the change permanent. In fact you could even cut the trace on the board and jump it there. Then add some wires to the switch side and utilize the switch for something completely different.

 

[Zimm]

See that thing. How that is constructed is why I'm not using any products that utilize the faux screws as mounting points. I think many people look at that and assume there is some sort of backing plate with individual switches. It's all just a modern dashboard like any other dashboard, built for show.

The nice thing is, they could condense that a bit and incorporate some cubbies and charging points and it would be reverse compatible.

 

[IslandFalconer]

See that thing. How that is constructed is why I'm not using any products that utilize the faux screws as mounting points. I think many people look at that and assume there is some sort of backing plate with individual switches. It's all just a modern dashboard like any other dashboard, built for show.

The nice thing is, they could condense that a bit and incorporate some cubbies and charging points and it would be reverse compatible.

Exactly why I chose the owl mount.