It does, but you don’t want it to slip in to the actual button housing. But that’s how I first did it.corner torn from a business card works fine and is barely detectible
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It does, but you don’t want it to slip in to the actual button housing. But that’s how I first did it.corner torn from a business card works fine and is barely detectible
Has anyone tried jumping the terminals on the back of the switch?So, for everyone who wants Auto Start/Stop to stay off, I have a Jerry Rigged has worked for the last three days solution. I’d love to have longer term data, but 72 hours is what I have so far with no fault codes.
I bent a little sheet metal just thick enough to slid in under the button, than depressed the button, the Auto Start/Stop button now stays in the depressed position due to the friction of the little metal shim.
It is L shaped, so it can’t slip inside the button cavity.
I make no claim this is “good” or “not good” only that after 3 days it’s still in the “off” position.
Might work but getting to the back of the switch is not easyHas anyone tried jumping the terminals on the back of the switch?
Guessing the center panel doesn't just pull off?Might work but getting to the back of the switch is not easy
Work smarter not harder! Joking but not really.I present my auto stop/start fix
Here are the imagesThe whole panel is an integrated unit with a single connector.its a ‘line replaceable item’ in aero speak, you can’t access the back of the switch
It looks like there are screws holding the back cover on. I would think that you could jump the connectors for the switch where they attach to the PCB.Here are the imagesView attachment 7874561View attachment 7874562
You absolutely can, you can solder a jumper on the circuit board. But that would kill any potential warranty and make the change effectively permanent. Placing the small clip in the button face functionally is just as effective and allows you to revert back in case you have a service related to the panel in the future. I will try to snap a pic of mine and post it, you really would have a hard time noticing it and it works 100% of the time.It looks like there are screws holding the back cover on. I would think that you could jump the connectors for the switch where they attach to the PCB.
Exactly why I chose the owl mount.See that thing. How that is constructed is why I'm not using any products that utilize the faux screws as mounting points. I think many people look at that and assume there is some sort of backing plate with individual switches. It's all just a modern dashboard like any other dashboard, built for show.
The nice thing is, they could condense that a bit and incorporate some cubbies and charging points and it would be reverse compatible.
Me to. it seemed like the best alternative since it sort of clamps and put the screws in sheer and not tension. I'm not worried about the plastic giving way. I just wish people could make a product without a massive brand on it.Exactly why I chose the owl mount.
I liked your idea so much that I created one from a zip tie. I might switch it to black.So, for everyone who wants Auto Start/Stop to stay off, I have a Jerry Rigged has worked for the last three days solution. I’d love to have longer term data, but 72 hours is what I have so far with no fault codes.
I bent a little sheet metal just thick enough to slid in under the button, than depressed the button, the Auto Start/Stop button now stays in the depressed position due to the friction of the little metal shim.
It is L shaped, so it can’t slip inside the button cavity.
I make no claim this is “good” or “not good” only that after 3 days it’s still in the “off” position.
You’ll get a bong and an indicator the hood is open.Did some googling and the way to disable auto stop start it to disconnect the hood sensor. I’ve seen aftermarket products that plug into the sensors (maybe tricking them, to say it’s closed). Not tried on mine yet but wondering if warning lights will come on or continuous bongs.