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Heater output

Skydance

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My dealer got back to me and indicated Ineos indicated heat was only intended to exit from the floor vents and windshield vents. The face vents not meant to have hot air.
That can’t be right, dealer must be telling porkies. If I switch to face only and turn up the temperature, I get hot air to face. However, if I switch to face and feet then I get warm air to face and cold air to feet (this should be incorrect and needs fixing).
 
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There has to be some wrecked Grenadiers around right? A tear down analysis of the dashboard and assess whether it's physical impediments or poor control software....
 
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Try turning it on face and feet. Ours is lukewarm when just on face but if you go face/feet it gets nice and hot, just a quirk. Dealer said it was designed that way 🤷🏼‍♂️
Ha yep.. they told me the same.. so you have been able to get through the CO winter with this workaround? My IG doesn’t have heated seats. I figured the heat would work since it’s ICE. wtf ineos, get your sht together
 

Cheshire cat

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I'm with Skydance on this. I can be nice and warm allover, except for freezing feet. I have owned the vehicle since May 23, I haven't got round to working out what exactly is happening, mainly due to two summers and one winter.
On the plus side, it does not put me off the vehicle one iota.
 

Rab

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I have found auto works fine as long as it’s at least 12C outside as the system is pushing the air through all the vents and the footwell seems to have the most resistance.
Any colder and I go manual, crank the temperature dial up and leave it on speed 1 or 2. The air flow follows the dial position faithfully but it can take it 5 or 6 seconds to finish moving its flaps about.
It also takes quite a while to warm up due to the cooling capacity.
 

Znarfgh

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I noticed that I had cold feet during a winter trip this year and did some investigation when I got back.

Top vents:
20240826_105547.jpg


Footwell vent:
20240826_105600.jpg

First thing to check was the HT fluid reservoir and this needed a top up. Not sure this will solve the heat differential issue but for those with poor heater performance this is the first check.

I also went through the bleed procedure mentioned on this forum and the heater works much better. I have not yet checked the temperature differential but will hopefully have the opportunity to do this soon (Spring and warmer temperatures are not helping my cause).
 

shiv.nandak

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My dealer got back to me and indicated Ineos indicated heat was only intended to exit from the floor vents and windshield vents. The face vents not meant to have hot air.
This is BS because my face vents have hot air. And how would the dealers statement even make sense? lol
 

Shopkeep

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I ran through the cooling system bleed procedure last Thursday (very easy), my heater had been working but it took 10 minutes plus to kick in and I could hear gurgling behind the centre console. The sounds are now gone and the heater kicks in very quickly. On delivery I could tell that the dealer had topped up the cooling reservoir and I have had my truck back to complete all outstanding service campaigns but always had the same issue, it suggests it was never bled by the dealer.

If you have not done it give it a go.
 

Oscar786

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If you turn the ac off, and dont use auto climate, but just put the heater on and choose a fan speed, is it still poor?
those settings should work well. If not, talk to agent would be my suggestion.

ac can also be low on gas or have a leak initially From factory.

but in manual, your car should be capable of significant heating, and powerful cooling.

the performance of auto mode is definitely something many/most or possibly all cars struggle with.
So my one had the same issue . Took it to Colchester Ferrari where the service centre is . To get hot air , you must put fan speed on 1 or 2 then the temp button turn to hot and press so light comes on , at the same time you will notice the air con comes on but you must switch air con off . Apparantly that’s how it works and it’s how it was designed .
 

NMpacheco

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I have noticed my diesels heater really is not very warm, even after a long motorway drive with a trailer, the heater output on max is tepid to say the most. I’m in Scotland at the moment and it was -1 yesterday morning. On my drive to work about 3/4 miles, the heater remained cold the whole time, even though the temperature gauge was showing 90 degrees. Can anyone say if their heater vents are actually hot normally before I hit the dealer with this one please. I know new diesels take longer to get heat up but the output even when the engine is upto temperature is just not acceptable :(
I have gas version. AC was very good, but now that it is colder, the heat seemed to be lacking. Switching from non-auto high temp and max fan to auto seemed to cause it to heat well. It seems that if it is not heating well, switching to (works most of the time) or from (works almost all of the time) the auto mode is the trick for ours.
 

CRH

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I found, just fiddle, leave alone for a few mins, check what it's doing and if not desired, try something else and wait again. I've found my auto seems to work if I give it 5 mins to think about what I'm asking.
 

Oscar786

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I have noticed my diesels heater really is not very warm, even after a long motorway drive with a trailer, the heater output on max is tepid to say the most. I’m in Scotland at the moment and it was -1 yesterday morning. On my drive to work about 3/4 miles, the heater remained cold the whole time, even though the temperature gauge was showing 90 degrees. Can anyone say if their heater vents are actually hot normally before I hit the dealer with this one please. I know new diesels take longer to get heat up but the output even when the engine is upto temperature is just not acceptable :(
Ok so I had the same issue . I booked mine in and it came back and here is what the dealer in Colchester said .. you have to put the fan on 1 or 2 , then the temp button turn to hot and press in until the light comes on , at which time the air con will also come on , switch air con off but make sure the temp light stays on , then you get hot air rather than that Luke warm air . I just did London to Isle of Mull road trip and heater worked fine using above method , apparently it’s how it’s designed .
 
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I have noticed my diesels heater really is not very warm, even after a long motorway drive with a trailer, the heater output on max is tepid to say the most. I’m in Scotland at the moment and it was -1 yesterday morning. On my drive to work about 3/4 miles, the heater remained cold the whole time, even though the temperature gauge was showing 90 degrees. Can anyone say if their heater vents are actually hot normally before I hit the dealer with this one please. I know new diesels take longer to get heat up but the output even when the engine is upto temperature is just not acceptable :(
Get it bled by your dealer !
 

bradb622

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Mine requires the same fiddling to get it to blow hot air. Simply moving the dial into the red has no effect. I can get it to work eventually turning ‘auto’ off and on. On the punch list for next service. I also want to evaluate how much of the whistle on fan settings 1, 2 & 3 is normal - I honestly drown that one out and not bothered by it, but passengers sometimes think I have a leak from a window seal somewhere until I turn off the A/C to show that’s all it was.

The reason I don’t stick to using the ‘auto’ button is the fan noise when max cool/heat is needed. In manual mode I avoid ever using it for the sound it makes. Does everyone’s max fan make the same sound? - like a loud version of a cheap electric handheld fan you might buy at a festival.

Hardly a deal breaker but would be nice to use HVAC without the fuss.
 
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Cheshire cat

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There is some guidance posted on this forum that worked for me. I found one of the two header tanks needed topping up by at least a litre.
 
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Mine requires the same fiddling to get it to blow hot air. Simply moving the dial into the red has no effect. I can get it to work eventually turning ‘auto’ off and on. On the punch list for next service. I also want to evaluate how much of the whistle on fan settings 1, 2 & 3 is normal - I honestly drown that one out and not bothered by it, but passengers sometimes think I have a leak from a window seal somewhere until I turn off the A/C to show that’s all it was.

The reason I don’t stick to using the ‘auto’ button is the fan noise when max cool/heat is needed. In manual mode I avoid ever using it for the sound it makes. Does everyone’s max fan make the same sound? - like a loud version of a cheap electric handheld fan you might buy at a festival.

Hardly a deal breaker but would be nice to use HVAC without the fuss.
Auto + Max heat activates the hvac’s stupid mode.

I bet you the monkey they hired to implement that control logic wrote something like:

If ( hvacModeIsAuto AND tempDial = maxHot) Then fanSpeed = MAX

My fan runs at full blast, even with the engine cold, blows freezing air out the vents. Move the temp dial one click away from max heat, and the fan speed is much more sensible - when engine is cold, it no longer blows cold air.. Make it make sense.

For the whistle sound, I almost want to open the dashboard and start shaving off plastic baffles.
 
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Eric

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I don't think the heater circuit opens up fully till the engine temperature is up to operating temperature. If you have the temperature display on I can see it takes a good 8 miles to get the full operating temperature, mine is diesel,. After that my heater goes from the initial cold, then warm air to fully functioning at 8 miles. It remains fully functioning until the engine cools. That means overnight, as the engine retains heat for short stops.
 
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