From what Paul ( Miltz ) was telling me, they ( the dealership mechanics ) couldn't find the dip stick.
From what Paul ( Miltz ) was telling me, they ( the dealership mechanics ) couldn't find the dip stick.
I had my 15000 service nearly 6 months ago, cost /invoice was posted under my previous posts. It was $750 from memory. I'm almost at 30,000km so will keep everyone up to date
Why would they touch the sump plug?
This is where I'm at. I've got a mechanic (Bosch/RAA approved) willing to do the work and can source consumables/most components (generally BMW or Toyota). Today I've gone and got most of what is required for the service to be redone (all fluids from Penrite (aside from coolant concentrate that I need to go past BMW/Toyota for)), which what was used in my car despite the price gauging for recommended Petronas/Fuchs)
Not sure, but wouldn't think it would be needed, typically something you would only do with a dry sumped engine. Oil filter sits quite high and is remote of the oil pump etc, doesn't sit low on the block at crank level like an older engine.
Should only drain from there regardless, bottom of the sump is where the heavier contaminants sit, e.g. anything metal related. If the bottom of the sump hasn't been drained the oil hasn't been drained as far as I'm concerned!
I'd be more than happy to pay that! First service includes fluids for the diffs and work involved in draining them (granted it's probably only 15 minutes). That's $550 cheaper than I was quoted and $300 cheaper than the reduced service I ended up with but which may not have happened!
Anything heavier than the oil settles at the bottom of the sump. Metal shavings from manufacture or wear-in etc, any failure of a component somewhere else in the engine etc. (though they shouldn't be there). Yet to actually test it myself but most sump plugs are now magnetic so they can pick up anything like that in the oil system. Clearly won't pick up most alloys, composites or carbides but will at least keep any iron based metals circulating in the system.
Should mention that when you drain a sump it is generally done with a cold engine so everything can settle at the bottom. Including the oil itself, if the engine has been ran recently half the oil will still be at the top end and need to drain down over time.
Nor did they know how to use the infotainment screen to run an automated oil level check, I had to show them how to do that. And also had to show then how to put the hood into the service position which I thought would have been class 1 of how to service the car, if you can't open the hood you shouldn't be allowed to service it!
Just saw my own post, appears images have been posted in the opposite order to being attached as described... Sorry for any confusion!
I understand that but the engine service practice is to drain the oil from the dipstick so they wouldn't touch the sump plug
Some time ago it was posted on here that changes to the oil pan meant the sump plug was not the lowest collection point on the engine.
Most oils are drained warm or hot. The car goes from the carpark to the rack the contaminates unless large or heavy will be suspended in the oil and the majority will drain with the oil proven by good oil sampling methods. If there is that much contamination that it settles in the sump before a cold drain it is very unlikely the the contaminants will drain with the oil as there is all ways some residual oil left in the sump. Very few vehicles are drained in a workshop stone cold or have been sitting overnight in the shop. Oil filters sit high for ease of servicing. An oil filter in every modern car engine is full flow so the first place the oil goes is through is the oil filter straight after the oil pump before going through the engine only bypass oil from a blocked filter or very cold high viscosity oil will go directly into an engine lubrication system without filtration. It also pays to start a turbo engine that has been sitting overnight prior to a service to lubricate the turbo (extends turbo life) so that it does have some lubrication prior to the new oil charging the system and new filter that may take a few seconds for some engines.
