Easy GP Factor table modification to secure cutting board more firmly

[C-Mack]

Just finished up an easy modification to my GP Factor table which is an amazing product and couldn’t be happier with it! That said, I’ve noticed the cutting board can move around in its mount slightly and on sharp bumps creates a bit of a knocking sound. The rest of the table is rock solid and doesn’t make any noise or rattles at all.

To fix the issue, I installed four stainless steel thumb screws which thread through the cutting board with stainless steel inserts designed for hardwood. The thumb screws, when snugged up, put light pressure on the underside of stainless table effectively cinching the cutting board in place. Needless to say, I was a bit reluctant to drill through the cutting board but it can easily be replaced and I certainly didn’t want to modify the solid metal parts of the table assembly or change its functionality in any way.

I think the modification turned out really well. The thumbscrews don’t have to be fully removed to slide the cutting board out you just loosen them slightly. They also serve as a couple of little handles and you can retighten the two inside thumbscrews to help stabilize the board while extended. The thumbscrews only protrude 15mm off the face of the cutting board when stowed but you can choose flusher faced ones if clearance is an issue for you.

Here are the part numbers I ordered from McMaster-Carr for this project if anyone is interested:

Stainless Steel Thumb Screws M5 x .08 20mm long (Part #: 92558A180 Qty: 4)
Stainless Threaded Insert M5 x 0.8 12.7mm long (Part #: 95807A510 Qty: 4)

I used small rubber washers to take up the tension on the thumbscrews and protect the cutting board. The rubber washers also helps keep the thumbscrews from loosening or backing off under vibration.

You’ll need a drill bit about 9.7mm in diameter to drill the hole for the inserts. I’d recommend using tape on both sides of the cutting board to prevent any splintering as you drill. Use a series of smaller drill bits to sneak up on the final diameter and place a solid block of wood underneath the cutting board as backing while drilling. To locate the position of the holes to drill I measured in 1.5” (38mm) from the top/bottom edge and each side to find my mark.

Be careful installing the inserts, if they feel tight enlarge the hole slightly so it threads in smoothly as you don’t want to split or crack the board. I found using an M5 bolt with a couple nuts jammed together and a 1/4 ratchet worked the best to install the inserts.

Here are some photos of the install for anyone interested in doing the same - if anyone has questions feel free to reach out.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

Great idea. Of curiosity, was four for aesthetic symmetry, or do you think it needs tensioning on all corners? Mine is so loose that the cutting board is chipped from it sliding around during turns and then hitting the passenger side edge of the frame.

 

[C-Mack]

Great idea. Of curiosity, was four for aesthetic symmetry, or do you think it needs tensioning on all corners? Mine is so loose that the cutting board is chipped from it sliding around during turns and then hitting the passenger side edge of the frame.

Initially, I considered using two thumbscrews aligned horizontally across middle of the board at either edge. Mainly to keep them high enough to not run the risk of interfering with a drawer system I’m looking at but it turned out to be a non-issue.

I decided against using just two as I was concerned it would not provide enough tension to keep the board in place and I didn’t like how the board would bow outward slightly when all the tension was focused where it was least supported across the middle. I found having the thumbscrews at each corner, and closer to the rails, the cutting board had more surface area to push outward against as the thumbscrews were tightened.

Also, having four thumbscrews allowed me to retighten two of them back up when the board is extended as I didn’t like how easily the board could move around when it was only supported by the remaining few inches of board engaged with the rail.

When stowed I can grab either side of the cutting board and try slide it back and forth and all it accomplishes is shaking the entire vehicle it’s held in place that well. It’s amazing how little tension you need on the thumbscrews to hold everything in place. It’s not going to damage the stainless steel part of the table at all and my goal was to try make this modification look as if the table was built this way hence using all the stainless steel components.

By no means am I unhappy with the table, I think it’s extremely well made accessory. The only issue was the cutting board knocking around a little as I can’t stand rattles in my vehicles. Like you, I didn’t want the cutting board to become chipped or damaged bouncing around back there.

 

[MTNDOG]

Great idea. Of curiosity, was four for aesthetic symmetry, or do you think it needs tensioning on all corners? Mine is so loose that the cutting board is chipped from it sliding around during turns and then hitting the passenger side edge of the frame.

Turn it over and see if it still is loose. Mine is loose if the GP Factor label is facing in and barely slides out of the label is facing out. They recommended treating it with Walrus oil for cutting boards. Im sure as temperature and humidity change the board will expand and contract.

 

[C-Mack]

Turn it over and see if it still is loose. Mine is loose if the GP Factor label is facing in and barely slides out of the label is facing out. They recommended treating it with Walrus oil for cutting boards. Im sure as temperature and humidity change the board will expand and contract.

Great suggestion! I did experiment with mine in exactly the same manner before I modified it and turning it around did help a little bit. However, as you pointed out the cutting board is adjusting constantly to humidity and temperature changes so I wanted something that mechanically fixed it in place. Good thing now is regardless of what shape or dimension the board changes to I can just snug it in place.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

Yeah - definitely an expansion / contraction issue. I’ve oiled it for some protection (and also a little bit of hope that it would swell up a bit), but no real dice. Once I figure out how much clearance I have between the storage system and the table, I will probably follow @C-Mack ‘s lead. Wondering out loud if there’s something to coat the tip of the bolts with so it’s more of a rubberized contact on the stainless portion as opposed to a stainless on stainless friction. Again - just spit-balling here… I really like the solution

 

[C-Mack]

Yeah - definitely an expansion / contraction issue. I’ve oiled it for some protection (and also a little bit of hope that it would swell up a bit), but no real dice. Once I figure out how much clearance I have between the storage system and the table, I will probably follow @C-Mack ‘s lead. Wondering out loud if there’s something to coat the tip of the bolts with so it’s more of a rubberized contact on the stainless portion as opposed to a stainless on stainless friction. Again - just spit-balling here… I really like the solution

Yup, I was thinking about putting some kind of protection on the end of the thumbscrews as well. I was toying around with either Plasti Dip, some liquid electrical tape, or small rubberized/plastic cap. The other concern would be with repeated use the plastic would just give up and I didn’t want to have to keep replacing it. There are available thumbscrews which are entirely made of plastic/nylon and I considered them but again I wanted something that would last and also look nice. A nylon thumbscrew with a custom stainless cap on the knurled knob end would be cool but I imagine that’s a totally custom thing.

The other issue is only a couple of threads or so are exposed between the cutting board and underside of the table anyway and you still need to be able to back the thumbscrews out flush with the back of the board to slide it out so nothing can be on the threads that would stop it threading back into the insert.

So in the end I gently rounded over the end of the thumbscrew so it had a shallow domed shape and polished it smooth with some 2000 grit sandpaper and it seems to work perfectly.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

I really appreciate your OCD errr… thoroughness !

 

[C-Mack]

I really appreciate your OCD errr… thoroughness !

Call it what it is OCD for sure… I just like well engineered things hence why I was drawn to the table in the first place. It’s all good!!