Just finished up an easy modification to my GP Factor table with cubby which is an amazing product BTW and couldn’t be happier with it!
That said, I’ve noticed the cutting board can slide back and forth in its mount and on sharp bumps creates a bit of a knocking sound. I suspect the low humidity where I live has increased the tolerance between the cutting board and where it slides into the table. I doubt this will be a problem for folks in warmer or more humid environments.
To fix the issue, I installed four stainless steel thumb screws, which thread through the cutting board with stainless inserts. The thumb screws apply light pressure to the underside of table effectively snugging the cutting board in place. Needless to say, I was a bit reluctant to drill through the cutting board but it can be replaced and I certainly didn’t want to modify any other solid metal parts of the table assembly.
I think the modification turned out really well. The thumbscrews don’t have to be removed to slide the board out you just loosen them slightly. They also serve as a couple of little handles and you can retighten the two inside thumbscrews which stabilize the board while extended. The thumbscrews only protrude 15mm off the face of the cutting board when stowed but you can choose flusher faced ones if clearance is an issue for you.
Here are the part numbers I ordered from McMaster-Carr for this project if anyone is interested:
Stainless Steel Thumb Screws M5 x .08 20mm long (Part #: 92558A180 Qty: 4)
Stainless Threaded Insert M5 x 0.8 12.7mm long (Part #: 95807A510 Qty: 4)
I also used small rubber washers to take up the tension on the thumbscrews and protect the cutting board.
You’ll need a drill bit about 9.7mm in diameter to drill the hole for the inserts. I’d recommend using tape on both sides of the cutting board to prevent any splintering as you drill. Use a series of smaller drill bits to sneak up on the final diameter and place a solid block of wood underneath the cutting board as backing while drilling. Be careful installing the inserts, if it’s overly tight enlarged the hole slightly so it threads in smoothly as you don’t want to split or crack the board. I found using an M5 bolt with a couple nuts jammed together and a 1/4 ratchet worked the best to install the inserts.
Here are some photos of the install for anyone interested in doing the same:
That said, I’ve noticed the cutting board can slide back and forth in its mount and on sharp bumps creates a bit of a knocking sound. I suspect the low humidity where I live has increased the tolerance between the cutting board and where it slides into the table. I doubt this will be a problem for folks in warmer or more humid environments.
To fix the issue, I installed four stainless steel thumb screws, which thread through the cutting board with stainless inserts. The thumb screws apply light pressure to the underside of table effectively snugging the cutting board in place. Needless to say, I was a bit reluctant to drill through the cutting board but it can be replaced and I certainly didn’t want to modify any other solid metal parts of the table assembly.
I think the modification turned out really well. The thumbscrews don’t have to be removed to slide the board out you just loosen them slightly. They also serve as a couple of little handles and you can retighten the two inside thumbscrews which stabilize the board while extended. The thumbscrews only protrude 15mm off the face of the cutting board when stowed but you can choose flusher faced ones if clearance is an issue for you.
Here are the part numbers I ordered from McMaster-Carr for this project if anyone is interested:
Stainless Steel Thumb Screws M5 x .08 20mm long (Part #: 92558A180 Qty: 4)
Stainless Threaded Insert M5 x 0.8 12.7mm long (Part #: 95807A510 Qty: 4)
I also used small rubber washers to take up the tension on the thumbscrews and protect the cutting board.
You’ll need a drill bit about 9.7mm in diameter to drill the hole for the inserts. I’d recommend using tape on both sides of the cutting board to prevent any splintering as you drill. Use a series of smaller drill bits to sneak up on the final diameter and place a solid block of wood underneath the cutting board as backing while drilling. Be careful installing the inserts, if it’s overly tight enlarged the hole slightly so it threads in smoothly as you don’t want to split or crack the board. I found using an M5 bolt with a couple nuts jammed together and a 1/4 ratchet worked the best to install the inserts.
Here are some photos of the install for anyone interested in doing the same:
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