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C-Tek Battery Tender (is this correct)

Dfndr90

#5350
Grenadier Owner
Lifetime Supporter
Local time
3:22 PM
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
9
Location
Ohio, USA
Hello,

Thank you for the help with this quick question.

I need to place the Gren on a battery tender as it will sit for long periods of time.

I want to install the C-Tek Comfort Panel Indicator.

In the photos, marked in red I have highlighted the positions on the Aux battery and also where I want to install the panel.

Does anyone see any concerns with this installation?
 

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Easiest spot to wire the battery tender would be at the jump-start port under the hood as there is a great ground right there as well...

Are you trying to wire the battery tender only to the aux battery?
 
Easiest spot to wire the battery tender would be at the jump-start port under the hood as there is a great ground right there as well...

Are you trying to wire the battery tender only to the aux battery?
Yes, to the AUX battery. I’m trying to make it clean and the CTek panel makes it plug and play.

If I keep the AUX battery full, the battery management system “should” top off the main battery, or have I read things wrong.

I figured I would ask hear before I cut a hole and wire the battery.
 
Yes, to the AUX battery. I’m trying to make it clean and the CTek panel makes it plug and play.

If I keep the AUX battery full, the battery management system “should” top off the main battery, or have I read things wrong.

I figured I would ask hear before I cut a hole and wire the battery.
Assuming any loads on the main battery are less than the trickle charging ability of the CTEK Smartpass you'll be good!
 
Assuming any loads on the main battery are less than the trickle charging ability of the CTEK Smartpass you'll be good!
Thank you. The Gren will be parked so I don’t think there will be a lot of load on the main battery.
 
Thank you. The Gren will be parked so I don’t think there will be a lot of load on the main battery.
Not at all, as stated in the battery drain thread, after 31 days of being parked I was still at 12.6v (single battery)
 
Not at all, as stated in the battery drain thread, after 31 days of being parked I was still at 12.6v (single battery)
Hi @anand would you say this is independent of whether the vehicle is locked or not?
 
Hi @anand would you say this is independent of whether the vehicle is locked or not?
Fantastic question, but I feel like the answer is yes. If I'm not mistaken the approximate time for the vehicle to go to "sleep" increases when it isn't locked (increasing from ~5 minutes to ~9 minutes). Logic would say that nothing should wake up after that, even when it is unlocked. Other vehicles (for instance, my better half's Subaru Forester) are constantly scanning for proximity keys or doing over-the-air software updates which leads to increased/continuous battery usage. The Grenadier has none of those features. With that being said, after sitting for the same amount of time, her Forester also had enough battery voltage to start, however it was very close to not cranking over (her battery capacity is ~50% of the Grenadier's).

So, who's going to leave one unlocked for a month to test... For science!
 
Fantastic question, but I feel like the answer is yes. If I'm not mistaken the approximate time for the vehicle to go to "sleep" increases when it isn't locked (increasing from ~5 minutes to ~9 minutes). Logic would say that nothing should wake up after that, even when it is unlocked. Other vehicles (for instance, my better half's Subaru Forester) are constantly scanning for proximity keys or doing over-the-air software updates which leads to increased/continuous battery usage. The Grenadier has none of those features. With that being said, after sitting for the same amount of time, her Forester also had enough battery voltage to start, however it was very close to not cranking over (her battery capacity is ~50% of the Grenadier's).

So, who's going to leave one unlocked for a month to test... For science!
I wouldn't suspect any difference either. I will leave the Grenadier for 2 weeks in the near future. And possibly for 4 weeks in the summer. If someone can try it out earlier, that would be great.
 
Easiest spot to wire the battery tender would be at the jump-start port under the hood as there is a great ground right there as well...

Are you trying to wire the battery tender only to the aux battery?
My experience does not comport. I know what you've been saying and how it's "supposed" to work, but, I have only had effective charging at the battery terminals, and it's registered with the on board system.
 
My experience does not comport. I know what you've been saying and how it's "supposed" to work, but, I have only had effective charging at the battery terminals, and it's registered with the on board system.
Wonder if the NATO plug connection will work for a CTEK charger? Im trying to plan for my fridge.
 
Wonder if the NATO plug connection will work for a CTEK charger? Im trying to plan for my fridge.
I don't have wiring diagrams, but both my NOCO and Optima charger stopped charging and read full at both locations after only a dozen or so minutes, and the on board electric read 80%. After directly charging each battery for 4-5 hrs or so (I wasn't really timing it,) it was 99%. The unit did go into "reconditioning" mode for some reason on both batteries.

these are basically lead acid batteries designed for stop/start use. Fully charging lead acid batteries slows sufation and extends battery life, BBBBUUUUUUTTTTT, one risks some off gassing. Notice where the batteries are located. One of the design issues with having front fender wings is the loss of engine bay space for ancillary items, and modern engines take up a bit of space, especially a straight 6. One of the things I DID NOT LIKE with the design was being in the same space as the batteries.... I'm going to toss out there a possibility of whats going on....

Since my top off and reconditioning, I've been watching the A/V meters, and the car is definitely trying to get the batteries into the 80's %. I'm now down to 89, and the charge voltage has dropped from 4,8 to 4,3, and amps can be as low as 1 at a 70mph cruise. So, it has the appearance that since Ineos put the batteries in the passenger compartment, they are keeping the charge % below the off gassing threshold, and it is resulting in lower than ideal states of charge for a lead acid based battery, and we are suffering premature sulfation for it.

Two days ago I ordered a 2 battery trickle charge unit (noco 5x2) that I will be attaching. If I'm right, merely charging the the aux and letting it trickle charge the main will not desufate the main. If I'm wrong well, then I overthought the whole thing and no harm no foul.
 
Wonder if the NATO plug connection will work for a CTEK charger? Im trying to plan for my fridge.
The US trailer plug is also always hot for 12vdc. I cobbled-together a trailer port cable from Amazon with my NoCo Genius charger, and it keeps things topped-up quite happily. I believe it was pin 4, which is black on the harness I got off Amazon. I run the cable down past the driver door, and hang it from the door handle with a carabiner to remind me to detach before I depart.
 
The US trailer plug is also always hot for 12vdc. I cobbled-together a trailer port cable from Amazon with my NoCo Genius charger, and it keeps things topped-up quite happily. I believe it was pin 4, which is black on the harness I got off Amazon. I run the cable down past the driver door, and hang it from the door handle with a carabiner to remind me to detach before I depart.
Yup, I had a 7-pin connection in the truck bed of my Chevy and used this to power my Dometic fridge/freezer.


Here's one that's wired - granted overkill, but does have the right wires to connect to the right pins.

 
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