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Build Thread Bruce's build

Bruce

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What does one do when the wife gives them tasks that keep the fun stuff from getting stuff done on the weekend? You do it Monday. Today I donned my Swazi Hood and Rossi boots and installed the Bullbar. I had planned to have my son start the bolts off, but the top plate of the bar has enough of a plastic shroud that I wasn't too concerned with scratching the bumper, and the bolts go through the front. I masked off the front of the truck with a trusty old Mexican blanket, and set to work. The bar is hefty but not so much that it can't be a one man job. Basically I lifted it onto the bumper and started off the drivers side bolts while leaning against the passenger bracket. Then I moved to the passenger bolts and put those in (the top head stripped but is tight enough that I'm not worried). Torqued those down to the specs in the manual then moved on to the bottom bracket.
View attachment 7841636
These things are assholes. The instructions have you tighten them down before installing the bumper, but there is some lateral adjustability to them and I needed to loosen them up to get the bolts in. Only 3 of the 4 would thread and they aren't like the Urban bumpers that people are using ratchet straps to get on. If I want to get the 4th bolt in I'll probably need to drill out the hole. It's on there solid so I will likely leave it.
View attachment 7841637
Overall even with the hiccups on the bottom brackets it was maybe a 30 minute install plus the 2 minutes Friday night to remove the plastic cover plates to see what it looked like underneath.
View attachment 7841641
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Some people asked for pictures of the bar before install. I remembered to take pictures of the brackets (and did a 3d photo scan) but forgot to get one of the whole bar. You can see the bar was pretty well packed with lots of dense foam sheeting.
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And now for the finished product and a glamour shot of my trusty Mexican blanket.
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Would you mind sharing the torque numbers? The QR code isn’t working for me and I’ve got it all bolted up but I need to torque specs to finish it up. Thanks!
 

Bruce

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Looks like it got posted in Rupert's thread but let me know if you need more info @Regalz
 

Bruce

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Long time since my last update. Had a bit of pain from a broken rib which kept me from doing much on the truck, then did some traveling. Big box from Goose Gear arrived today and I should be able to get my drawers put in this week.
 

Bruce

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Got the drawers installed. Pretty easy for me to do solo having done a set on a previous truck. They come packed in a huge box on a wood fiber pallet. Even though freight is sidewalk drop off, the pallet was slick enough that I was able to push the whole shebang about 4 houses down the street, down the access to the alley, then back up to behind my house without having to use a dolly. On opening things up there was an added bonus of a bamboo cutting board and coaster. Makes me look forward to their camp table.

Since the plate install instructions were up on their site but not the drawers, hopefully this is useful. The first step is to remove the floor liner and airline track. 6 T50 bolts and that part is done.

IMG_9558.JPG


After that you pop through or remove the tape from holes 2 and 4 on each side. They're covered from the factory for some reason. There are 10 aluminum spacers in the install kit that go over the holes, then 10 5mm hex bolts to secure the plate down. When I put a plate in my 4Runner I added some generic Dynamat underneath. Skipped that here since I didn't have to remove an insulated/carpeted panel this time. Figure it won't be any louder with this than the simple floor liner.

Plate.jpg


Next I removed the drawers from the cabinet and hefted the box in at an angle. This part was a little tricky and a second pair of hands would be useful. The right hatch trim panel took a couple scratches but those'll get dinged anyway once I start hauling stuff around so no biggie. Once it's in, there are 2 L brackets on each side that you loosen with a 4mm hex, slide in the T-track to move over the pre-drilled holes, then use the 7/16" bolts to secure it to the plate and tighten the 4mm hex back down.

IMG_9562.JPG


Pop the drawers back in and load 'em up. I haven't measured yet but I believe there's enough room behind the right rear passenger to install a radio body vertically, which would make routing power pretty easy and you could go out the back for the antenna to mount on the airline track.

IMG_9564.JPG


I unfortunately misremembered information they posted in their build thread to mean the top plate would be pre-drilled to mount the airline track on top. The base plate can have them mounted on top so you could do a fridge slide or a kitchen unit then the track on the other side, but the holes on the top plate don't line up. No biggie as the drawers are high enough that I don't think the track would be too useful. I may throw some D rings on there but the track might be overkill and would reduce height availability so I'm happy with it as it is. John answered the phone right away when I called for clarification on the rails, and was helpful. He was also great in holding shipping for a week so they wouldn't show up when we were out of town for spring break.

The drawers are smooth, and the extra couple inches over the set in my 4Runner is nice. Things will be easier to pack with the added height. This time around I opted for the 2/3 - 1/3 setup, which makes for a bigger drawer for larger items, but the narrow drawer still fits my Blue Ridge Overland tool roll and recovery bag. Conveniently the locks are keyed to match the cubby (which is probably more a testament to the useless Southco lock than anything else), so it's one less key to fit on the keyring

Overall highly recommend these. Goose Gear makes great stuff.
 

Bruce

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Ran the antenna cable for the Midland MXT275 today. I used a VisionX 2 inch mount and drilled out the mounting hole to accomodate the half inch antenna base. I removed the light cover and routed the cable similarly to Canny. Because I have the safari windows I used the grommet near the air filter to go through the firewall. I was able to drop a section of 16g wire down and used that to pull the antenna cable into the cabin. I cut a notch in the grommet and sealed it with silicone. I'll hardwire the radio to INT2 next but have it powered by the cubby 12V for now.

IMG_9725.jpeg

IMG_9726.jpeg
 

Bruce

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Does that Mindland antenna unscrew from the base for when not in use? Can one of the stubby Midland antennas screw in place of the long one? I’m considering the same setup but for whatever reason cannot find an answer to these questions
This one does not as far as I can tell. It's on there pretty good. They have an MXAT05VP that they say screws off but I don't think it's the NMO mount like the Midland stubby. I found some people online have used adapters with success on that one to run the short antenna.

Edit. Another benefit of the VP is that the antenna lead itself is short and you can probably run a cable that isn't long enough to wrap around the whole grenadier like the one I have.
 

Sekurt

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This one does not as far as I can tell. It's on there pretty good. They have an MXAT05VP that they say screws off but I don't think it's the NMO mount like the Midland stubby. I found some people online have used adapters with success on that one to run the short antenna.

Edit. Another benefit of the VP is that the antenna lead itself is short and you can probably run a cable that isn't long enough to wrap around the whole grenadier like the one I have.
Bruce, using that Vision X mount, which my understanding uses a rubber isolator on the Bull Bar, aren’t you losing the ground plane with that antenna? Perhaps it’s my naivety on that setup, does the Midland antenna not require a ground plane or is it sufficiently grounded through the radio head unit. Curious as I’m trying to figure out what I’m going to use and I also have the Bull Bar
 

Bruce

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Bruce, using that Vision X mount, which my understanding uses a rubber isolator on the Bull Bar, aren’t you losing the ground plane with that antenna? Perhaps it’s my naivety on that setup, does the Midland antenna not require a ground plane or is it sufficiently grounded through the radio head unit. Curious as I’m trying to figure out what I’m going to use and I also have the Bull Bar
Good question. My understanding is that the Midland bullbar antennas do not require a ground plane. It's confirmed as not necessary by a Midland teck on the webpage for the VP kit. As for grounding, the isolator probably does interfare with that. So far I haven't tested the radio other than driving around with the radio on, and the reception seems pretty good most of the time.

I wired it into INT2 today and having the power switchable is very nice. I need the tools to cut the antenna cable shorter, as I have about 10 extra feet.
 

Sekurt

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Good question. My understanding is that the Midland bullbar antennas do not require a ground plane. It's confirmed as not necessary by a Midland teck on the webpage for the VP kit. As for grounding, the isolator probably does interfare with that. So far I haven't tested the radio other than driving around with the radio on, and the reception seems pretty good most of the time.

I wired it into INT2 today and having the power switchable is very nice. I need the tools to cut the antenna cable shorter, as I have about 10 extra feet.
Thank you for the update. Please let us know how this ultimately works out as I have the items sitting in the cart with midland and vision x. Also, please report back on the INT2 wiring as I’ve heard at least one other comment that he had engine noise on his radio using the INT switch. I know others have used the same with success so it could be an isolated incident.
 

Bruce

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Thank you for the update. Please let us know how this ultimately works out as I have the items sitting in the cart with midland and vision x. Also, please report back on the INT2 wiring as I’ve heard at least one other comment that he had engine noise on his radio using the INT switch. I know others have used the same with success so it could be an isolated incident.
I'll keep you posted. I will probably charge up my handhelds and send the kids on a walk. So far no engine noise. I had concerns about that as well after reading the same thing. The radio is dead silent when it's idle and when the nearby schools are on the radio it's loud and clear. For my ham antenna I think I'll use a different bracket (or drill a ground screw through the mount into the bullbar).
 

Sekurt

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I'll keep you posted. I will probably charge up my handhelds and send the kids on a walk. So far no engine noise. I had concerns about that as well after reading the same thing. The radio is dead silent when it's idle and when the nearby schools are on the radio it's loud and clear. For my ham antenna I think I'll use a different bracket (or drill a ground screw through the mount into the bullbar).
Any updates to report? I did just pull the trigger and buy the radio, antenna, mount, and other bits
 

Bruce

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Sure @Sekurt. I haven't installed the HAM antenna yet, but the Midland works great. I have kept it connected to INT2 for power and put USB jacks from INT1 on both sides of the center tunnel. It is working fantastically. There is no alternator noise. Running across a long bridge I was picking up a conversation from somewhere, and there was nobody in sight running radio. Around town I mostly get construction crews giving instructions to crane operators and dump trucks. Still haven't sent the kids on a walk with the handhelds for a short range test. In all I think the antenna works great on the VisionX mount.
IMG_9817.jpeg

Other installs briefly on hold because I apparently broke my low pressure coolant line and wasn't sure how long I'd be without the truck. Sounds like a 2-3 hour job after my diagnostic visit today. I didn't have time to wait before picking up kids from camp so I rescheduled that. I was able to squeeze in some other installs during my last couple weeks.

I put on the M&M seat covers. They are shifting around a bit so I'm not certain the fit is fantastic, especially on the armrest cover.

All the parts are here for the Owl mount and I have those lined up in a way that makes me happy. I think the only thing left to mount there is the Inreach. Highly recommend the mount if you can stomach the price.

I put on the 67 Designs wolfbox adapter. It makes a huge difference in camera view from the front, but I do have it installed a little lower than the bureaucrats would probably want.
IMG_9861.jpeg

I ran the yaesu remote cable from the cargo bay next to the drawer up to the cab. I installed a jack to the underside of the dash next to the passenger grab handle. I think it was @ninetubes that came up with that spot.
IMG_9860.jpeg

Finally, installed one of the Black Sheep interior window MOLLE panels, but decided to wait to install the other until I mount some bags up. Should be easier to thread the webbing that way. Open to suggestions on bags. I forget what brand @Robert T used in his setup but it was nice. I emailed Overland Gear Guy and he can do custom stuff but that would be pricy.

I'll try to get pics up soon so check back in a couple days for an edit.
 
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Robert T

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Finally, installed one of the Black Sheep interior window MOLLE panels, but decided to wait to install the other until I mount some bags up. Should be easier to thread the webbing that way. Open to suggestions on bags. I forget what brand @Robert T used in his setup but it was nice. I emailed Overland Gear Guy and he can do custom stuff but that would be pricy.
Hey Bruce. I got 4 pouches on Amazon that are pretty nice quality for around $18 each. Here's the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XJ4J299/?tag=globalgrena0b-20

Also attached are a few pictures of the table I have the pouches secured to
 

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