Black Sheep ARB Dual Compressor Mount.

[TheDocAUS]

Why a dual compressor? Faster, or is it redundancy.

The dual ARB compressor gives you both.

 

[ethree]

Really nice job. Thanks for the photo. I'd like to do exactly the same, please can you advise how far the compressor extends beyond the side panelling and also please could you share some photos or a sketch of how you connected the compressor to the Grenadier's wiring system? Many thanks

The large wire harness runs neatly thru the space over the left wheel well, emerges right behind the rear left passenger seat, tucks under and around into the battery compartment where the starter battery is located. I ended up lopping off about 16” of the large wire harness, which was great because it allowed for easier passage of the wire between the seat and into the battery compartment. Then I silver solder connected the big wires (the negative and two positives and used a basic connector for the small negative (switch) ground. Connecting to the battery was the biggest pain. Otherwise, it was a breeze.

The switch wiring layout above eliminates most of the switch wire harness that comes with the compressor. I mean a lot of it. You will need to run one wire to the positive terminal on the starter battery so plan on that as you run the main wire harness—I wasn’t so intelligent and had to run this small wire in the same path. Mission was accomplished. With the reduced wiring set up, everything fits neatly behind the supplied Black Sheep panel.

The compressor itself protrudes 1 1/8” past the original panel. Add on the ARB quick connect and you would add another 1 3/4” for that device.

 

[Gwynne]

View attachment 7851754
The large wire harness runs neatly thru the space over the left wheel well, emerges right behind the rear left passenger seat, tucks under and around into the battery compartment where the starter battery is located. I ended up lopping off about 16” of the large wire harness, which was great because it allowed for easier passage of the wire between the seat and into the battery compartment. Then I silver solder connected the big wires (the negative and two positives and used a basic connector for the small negative (switch) ground. Connecting to the battery was the biggest pain. Otherwise, it was a breeze.

The switch wiring layout above eliminates most of the switch wire harness that comes with the compressor. I mean a lot of it. You will need to run one wire to the positive terminal on the starter battery so plan on that as you run the main wire harness—I wasn’t so intelligent and had to run this small wire in the same path. Mission was accomplished. With the reduced wiring set up, everything fits neatly behind the supplied Black Sheep panel.

The compressor itself protrudes 1 1/8” past the original panel. Add on the ARB quick connect and you would add another 1 3/4” for that device.

Thanks very much. Really helpful. My aim is to in stall the compressor exactly as you have done - but i now realise I need to figure out how much clearance I need to allow not only for the quick connect but also to connect and disconnect the air pipe Any suggestion? On the LHS of the load space I'll have a fridge and fridge slide so that will be adjacent to the compressor.

 

[Oelprinz]

I run 2 single ARB compressors under the Ineos on a bash plate I made between the chassis and sill panel, and separately wired, so faster, and it saves carrying a second compressor for redundancy when traveling in remote locations solo, so I would say both.
The air intake and outlet, power supply and switch are all under the bonnet.

Would you mind sharing some pictures please?

 

[ethree]

Thanks very much. Really helpful. My aim is to in stall the compressor exactly as you have done - but i now realise I need to figure out how much clearance I need to allow not only for the quick connect but also to connect and disconnect the air pipe Any suggestion? On the LHS of the load space I'll have a fridge and fridge slide so that will be adjacent to the compressor.

The traditional plug in that compartment is sacrificed too...although I thought of plugging in a horizontal flat plug with a short extension and then thought better of it. The cover on the plug needs to be removed as well. Easy enough to do, just pop the pin. As to the space, you could possibly save a full inch or more if you mounted a 90-degree angle plug, allowing you to run a line wherever it is most convenient. You can also adjust the angle of the compressor's output to possibly eliminate any protrusion outside of the 1 1/8" you will have to eat because of the way the unit mounts. I contemplated doing just that myself, leaving the quick disconnect on but angling it down.

Best with the install. I see some are talking about placing it under the bonnet. I'm not seeing that as an option--but there are folks in here far cleverer than myself! Black Sheep seems to have made the best option I have seen yet. I am not partial to anyone but good grief, their ARB mount is spectacular--very well built. The rock rails are stainless steel, the steps are heavy aluminum (which I might add protrude just enough to stop a door slam into your side paint), and the light bar is a combo of stainless and aluminum. Liking what they make...a lot. SPP has some undercarriage plates that look good too.

 

[Steve.B]

Would you mind sharing some pictures please?

I put a couple of pictures of the compressor set up on the "steps added to rock sliders" thread.

 

[NZRA]

The ARB installation instructions clearly show how to attach the different colored wires to the numbered locations on the back of the switch. I did my comp install last week and it fired up right the first time.

Hi Jeffrey I’m installing my Blacksheep ARB mounted pump in the rear. I wired up to the 12 volt 5 terminal shunt under seat. I only use it for tyres so used the purple wire to switch and diode. It ran for a few seconds and stopped. Do you have pics of your wiring set up or advise please?

 

[Jeffrey]

Hi Jeffrey I’m installing my Blacksheep ARB mounted pump in the rear. I wired up to the 12 volt 5 terminal shunt under seat. I only use it for tyres so used the purple wire to switch and diode. It ran for a few seconds and stopped. Do you have pics of your wiring set up or advise please?

What is your plumbing like? If the air output is closed, plugged or has a QD on it, the compressor will shut off quickly when the internals reach a set pressure. Make sure the output is open and try again.

 

[JuicyTurkey]

Question for those who have done the install please - is the intent to screw the black sheep fascia panel (the one with the switch inserted in) direct into the grenadier plastic trim? I didn’t seem to get any instructions or fixings for this panel when I bought the kit. No dramas with the other bracketry but not certain on this bit.
Cheers

 

[Gwynne]

Have the kit and all ready to be installed. Any more tips on teh installation would be much appreciated.

 

[holdmybeer]

Here's my Black Sheep Dual ARB compressor install. I'm taking power from the NATO outlet on the back of the truck. Power lead is long enough to allow the back doors to open and close while connected. The Black Sheep kit is a clever design. Very tight fit but using that space and ext power back there makes me smile.

I'm thinking I may relocate the compressor to the inside cargo area when i get off my ass and design a nice shelf/drawer/fridge setup and then I'll probably have a leftover nook or cranny back there on the inside to mount the compressor. Will see. But very happy where the compressor lives for now. It WILL be a brief pain (allen key and 4 bolts) to remove the kit when I need the spare tire. It all comes out in one fell swoop thought, so not hard. But probably obscure and hard enough for a random thief to not bother. IMO.

FWIW, I've been using the MORRFlate 4-way setup for airing up/down. That's also a very nice design and OMG between the dual cylinders and the 4-at-a-time hoses ... SO fast. So fast.