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Bell Auto Services (BAS) CTEK D250SE charger bracket

Logsplitter

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And on final note, I spoke to Pete Bell this afternoon and he's still committed to getting this bracket done - perhaps because of feedback he's thinking just the bracket as a standalone with the one modification that the cutout required will be incorporated. No timescale at the moment but he will set wheels in motion.
Would this bracket be the same on the two seat commercial ?
 

Jean Mercier

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Details of what I take to be the BMS on the negative terminal of the starter battery:
View attachment 7823802
View attachment 7823803
I think Ineos and CTEK should hire you as external consultant, double income, free Grenadier as test case, free CTEK, ... consultants get wel paid, because when they are not needed anymore you can throw them out.
 

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And on final note, I spoke to Pete Bell this afternoon and he's still committed to getting this bracket done - perhaps because of feedback he's thinking just the bracket as a standalone with the one modification that the cutout required will be incorporated. No timescale at the moment but he will set wheels in motion.
Thanks for all the info @DCPU. I have some thick aluminium chequer plate I think that would do the job, any thoughts. I’m still waiting on the answer to the smart alternator cable before I commit 👍🏼
 

AnD3rew

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So the missing bolts finally turned up and I had a crack at fitting this afternoon.

Before I did, I just thought I'd check the weight (for those touring the Outback, where every little bit counts ;)):
View attachment 7823739

Smartpass taken out reveals the original bracket:
View attachment 7823740
View attachment 7823741
Held in by 4 short bolts:
View attachment 7823742
View attachment 7823769
Is yours a commercial version or a 5 seater? We know the black sheep one didn’t work on I think TomDocs 2 seater commercial because the @Black Sheep one has flanges designed to slide around the edge of the bracket. But it looks from these pictures of your bracket that it wouldn’t work on this one either as the bracket has straight sides. .
IMG_4508.jpeg
 

DCPU

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Would this bracket be the same on the two seat commercial ?
I've certainly not seen anything in photos to suggest it would not be the same; but you'd be in a better position to judge.
 

DCPU

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Is yours a commercial version or a 5 seater?
It's a commercial (N1) 5 seater.

We know the black sheep one didn’t work on I think TomDocs 2 seater commercial because the @Black Sheep one has flanges designed to slide around the edge of the bracket.
I don't think the BS one was designed to do that. I think it was designed to sit on top of the Ineos bracket. It has to bolt into the captive nuts in the Ineos bracket and BS provided longer bolts for this purpose.

The only issue then is the additional height not being compatible (or tight) to the lid. To be fair it's a similar issue with 5 seat variants. I can't really see the point of the flanges over a flat simple plate.

But it looks from these pictures of your bracket that it wouldn’t work on this one either as the bracket has straight sides. .
Look at the photos, they look identical brackets and even have the same part number, so there's no difference.

Did BS design off a PTO with a different non-production bracket or this one?
 

AnD3rew

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It's a commercial (N1) 5 seater.


I don't think the BS one was designed to do that. I think it was designed to sit on top of the Ineos bracket. It has to bolt into the captive nuts in the Ineos bracket and BS provided longer bolts for this purpose.

The only issue then is the additional height not being compatible (or tight) to the lid. To be fair it's a similar issue with 5 seat variants. I can't really see the point of the flanges over a flat simple plate.


Look at the photos, they look identical brackets and even have the same part number, so there's no difference.
Ah ok, hope that’s right
 

bakepl

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Final connections - earth lead to auxiliary battery is far too long - ideally it should be 165mm measured tip to tip with M8 ring connectors:
View attachment 7823781

And temperature sensor taped to the the auxiliary battery near to the positive terminal. (I might investigate the thermal paste mentioned in another post):
View attachment 7823782

I'm going to leave the smart alternator cable unattached for the time being, taking the lead from what Ineos have done with the Smartpass, at least until they come back with answers to the outstanding questions on this topic. I am minded to attach them if I get no sense.
Received this advice from Ctek yesterday 17-8- 23
Final connections - earth lead to auxiliary battery is far too long - ideally it should be 165mm measured tip to tip with M8 ring connectors:
View attachment 7823781

And temperature sensor taped to the the auxiliary battery near to the positive terminal. (I might investigate the thermal paste mentioned in another post):
View attachment 7823782

I'm going to leave the smart alternator cable unattached for the time being, taking the lead from what Ineos have done with the Smartpass, at least until they come back with answers to the outstanding questions on this topic. I am minded to attach them if I get no sense.
Received the following advice from Ctek yesterday 17-8-23 re connecting the alternator sensor wires or not. Similar to what advice others have received from Ctek:

Thank´s for your mail!

The red cable from D250SE and Smartpass 120S can be connected to ignition on 12v signal to improve the charging.
 

DCPU

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Thanks for all the info @DCPU. I have some thick aluminium chequer plate I think that would do the job, any thoughts. I’m still waiting on the answer to the smart alternator cable before I commit 👍🏼
Yes, I think it would work fine. I might be tempted to fit it with the chequer pattern underneath, to keep the smooth surface for the feet of the CTEK units and ensure they are absolutely even and flush with the surface.
 

DCPU

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Received the following advice from Ctek yesterday 17-8-23 re connecting the alternator sensor wires or not. Similar to what advice others have received from Ctek:

Thank´s for your mail!

The red cable from D250SE and Smartpass 120S can be connected to ignition on 12v signal to improve the charging.
Yes, I'm very much minded to follow this advice; I'm just waiting to see if there's a strong reasoned argument from Ineos to definitely not do it.

They, after all, integrated the units and should be able to say...(insert pissing in the wind emoji).
 

Tomdoc

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Two points:

1. Ineos have refused to comment on integrating BOTH a 120 and a 250.

2. The 2-seater requires a "flat" plate (which they have now made for me) because the original Black Sheep plate sits on top of the existing mount and thus would foul on the battery compartment lid in the 2 seat version. It is fine when installed under a second row of seats.

I am really grateful to @Black Sheep for their excellent customer service.
 

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Two points:

1. Ineos have refused to comment on integrating BOTH a 120 and a 250.

2. The 2-seater requires a "flat" plate (which they have now made for me) because the original Black Sheep plate sits on top of the existing mount and thus would foul on the battery compartment lid in the 2 seat version. It is fine when installed under a second row of seats.

I am really grateful to @Black Sheep for their excellent customer service.
So a flat plate is dead easy for anyone to make themselves even with some ply or chequer plate
 

ECrider

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excellent write up and photos - tks @DCPU

what camera are you using for the snaps, just curious as very clear shots?
 

DCPU

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Yes, some of my earlier photos were poor as I was just using my old Nokia phone. I only really noticed how poor when posting them up here and comparing with others.

Ineos have dragged me into the 21st century, as I needed a new phone to do the Android Auto thing. I've ended up with a Motorola Moto G53, not an expensive phone, but it does seem to take decent photos. 👍
 

emax

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Very good job and documentation! (y)

Thank you. :)
 

DCPU

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As indicated by others when re-connecting the batteries, I got these warning lights in the tell tale:
View attachment 7823789
Odd that diff locks that won't work without centre diff or low gear will illuminate...

And the lockers up top continued to flash rapidly for a good period after the vehicle was shut down:
View attachment 7823791
As a postscript to this. The diff lock button lights flashed for some time after the vehicle was shutdown. I can't say for how long as I walked away; but they were off the next morning.

However, today (a few days later) was the first time I jumped back in and started the engine. The diff lock button lights started flashing straight away and the two tell tale lights illuminated. All went off after a short distance driving, although I feel it was more related to a threshold speed rather than a distance.

I've also had the chance to wire in a solar panel temporarily and can confirm I saw lights on the D250SE to indicate it was charging the auxiliary battery. 🙌
 
Last edited:

emax

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Full success, well done! (y)

If you have the time for it and can provide a wiring sketch I offer to create a schematic.

I'd make the schematic with KiCad, which is free and available for Linux and Windows as well. The schematic would only contain what's on the sketch and thus only reflect the two-batteries setup with the 120 and 250 CTek devices.

If anybody else wants to do this I have no concerns. More free time for me. ;)
 
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