Americas Are you not getting the front or rear diff and why?

[alvan]

In seventeen years of off road with Defenders, I have never needed the front and rear blocks and have managed to come out in all situations. Indeed, looking at the price list, and considering that my Grenadier has K02s, the K02 + fr and r diffs package would have involved a fairly acceptable additional expense. Honestly though, having never felt the need on the Defender in my journeys, I thought of the old rule: anything that isn't there doesn't break and doesn't add weight...

 

[DCPU]

I thought of the old rule: anything that isn't there doesn't break and doesn't add weight...

It's a very good maxim; but weight wise what does it add? I'd make a guess at under 1kg per axle and under 1kg for the wiring bits. Yes, everything adds up but this less than most.

As for breaking, OK we've read the stories over non-functioning locks, which I guess is only really an issue if locked; but the other part of that is, as mentioned by others, the reduction in driveline stress by splitting available torque down both halfshafts rather than just one.

There's also the speed element and potential for damage to other parts of your vehicle if you're having to "take a run" at obstacles rather than lock diffs and let the vehicle walk through.

I'm a fan, although I do admit that Eaton e lockers are not what I would have picked given a list of options, but in with both feet and see how they get on.

 

[CountyV8]

It's a very good maxim; but weight wise what does it add? I'd make a guess at under 1kg per axle and under 1kg for the wiring bits. Yes, everything adds up but this less than most.

As for breaking, OK we've read the stories over non-functioning locks, which I guess is only really an issue if locked; but the other part of that is, as mentioned by others, the reduction in driveline stress by splitting available torque down both halfshafts rather than just one.

There's also the speed element and potential for damage to other parts of your vehicle if you're having to "take a run" at obstacles rather than lock diffs and let the vehicle walk through.

I'm a fan, although I do admit that Eaton e lockers are not what I would have picked given a list of options, but in with both feet and see how they get on.

I'm with you on all of that plus it makes it a better resale proposition if needed and it's all covered baby a 5 year warranty .

 

[Deleted member 9047666 (user closed account)]

I have a 97 D90, 76 Bronco, and 07 TLC 100. They aren't mall crawlers but I won't be in situations where I need the Rough Package so I'm not on the fence. If you're on the fence, I would definitely get it because as others have said, you can't add it later.

 

[Krabby]

I have a 97 D90, 76 Bronco, and 07 TLC 100. They aren't mall crawlers but I won't be in situations where I need the Rough Package so I'm not on the fence. If you're on the fence, I would definitely get it because as others have said, you can't add it later.

All staying in the family if you get an IG?

 

[40man]

I get by in my 200 without lockers, but it has pretty good traction control. I'll likely add Eaton lockers at some point.

I'm definitely ordering the lockers here. I'm know I'll need them from time to time. I'm skipping the factory winch as it seems to be crazy expensive compared to adding a good Warn. I assume the mounting points are still there on the factory bumper?

 

[Shopkeep]

I get by in my 200 without lockers, but it has pretty good traction control. I'll likely add Eaton lockers at some point.

I'm definitely ordering the lockers here. I'm know I'll need them from time to time. I'm skipping the factory winch as it seems to be crazy expensive compared to adding a good Warn. I assume the mounting points are still there on the factory bumper?

Factory Red winch is smaller than usual so mount/location will not be compatible with most other brands. You will need to replace the front bumper.

 

[40man]

Factory Red winch is smaller than usual so mount/location will not be compatible with most other brands. You will need to replace the front bumper.

Figured that may be the case, but hopefully there will be a good aftermarket bull bar available soon.

 

[MrMike]

I'd rather be look at them than looking for them.

 

[Sam]

+1

Didn't have/ never thought about front/ rear locking diffs on my 110. Didn't do anything too silly, but occasionally got in some strife, and always drove out. 12 years. Yay.

However

I did recently get bogged, in my non-locker stop-gap car (which is a little soft). The situation wasn't perilous, but the shame and inconvenience was real. A hot day, and i said i'd be back to put the barbie on, and my kid wanted a surf, and the Toyota-owners were cruising through...

and I hated that, so

 

[Disco Dave]

Myself and my blessed one, like to go camping without anybody about. This usually means tough tracks. Currently run a Disco 2 with 32” tyres a 1.5” suspension lift (air), ACE, and centre diff lock. It crawls up just about everything, whilst the 70 series cruisers with diff locks are spinning wheels (when we go with others).

I need a vehicle that can carry a load and be at least the equivalent of my 23 year old D2. Therefore I optioned the diff locks, open diffs will not do the job. With the Grenny, I will almost maintain my articulation, but diff locks are better than traction control. Will prob go 33” tyres when the originals wear out, maybe a 1 or 2” suspension lift is possible.

The Toyo boys will be watching - it better be good.

 

[MrMike]

Myself and my blessed one, like to go camping without anybody about. This usually means tough tracks. Currently run a Disco 2 with 32” tyres a 1.5” suspension lift (air), ACE, and centre diff lock. It crawls up just about everything, whilst the 70 series cruisers with diff locks are spinning wheels (when we go with others).

I need a vehicle that can carry a load and be at least the equivalent of my 23 year old D2. Therefore I optioned the diff locks, open diffs will not do the job. With the Grenny, I will almost maintain my articulation, but diff locks are better than traction control. Will prob go 33” tyres when the originals wear out, maybe a 1 or 2” suspension lift is possible.

The Toyo boys will be watching - it better be good.

I'm a Toyo boy, I'm cautiously optimistic

 

[Fidei Defensor]

I fitted front and real lockers to my NAS D90 and it transformed what I could do with it (admittedly, some pretty difficult stuff, bot not "real" US-style rock crawling: just tought obstacles on overland trails in Colorado, Arizona, Utah, etc). And, although I may not do as much tough stuff as before in the IG, I want the lockers for the ability to pull me out of these situations. I have used both rear (regularly) and front (not nearly as often, but in specific situations where the front had the traction the rear did not).
Another reason for optioning the lockers is that they are a bargain, and the thought of waiting for an aftermarket solution, that might not come, could cost a lot more and not be as elegant an install, pushes this to the "no-brainer" side.
And finally, if I sell, the factory lockers will be a strong selling point.
This is similar to optioning the winch. I have used my winch on many,many occasions, both for self-recovery and to pull others out of situations. And, although it is expensive, the possibility that an aftermarket solution will work out cheaper is, to me, doubtful. Aftermarket will entail a complete new front bumper, wiring and the winch. And I saw some people quoting ~$1000 for a winch: for that, you get Walmart quality. Fitting less than a top-of-the line winch seems a ridiculous idea! And a Warn Zeon will cost well over $2k...... Factor in the new bumper, wiring and labor and you easily reach or pass $4k.... for something not as elegant as the factory solution....
And again: an aftermarket winch/bumper solution will kill much of the resale value.... (Looking at the market for NAS defenders, if I had left mine in a garage since I bought it (new in '95) I could ask $100k. But for my ultra-capable off-road example (with everything including lockers, upgraded suspension/drivetrain/brakes/tires, built in engine-driver air compressor, engel fridge, etc, etc.... and the trail bumps to match.... I will have to find a specific buyer and might get $30k.....
The Grenadier is an expensive vehicle, anf financing it with all the (practical) options seems to me the best way to go, for ultimate utility and (eventually) resale.

 

[DCPU]

Factor in the new bumper, wiring and labor and you easily reach or pass $4k.... for something not as elegant as the factory solution....

Don't forget the $1,650 for the wiring & switch...

 

[hustlehard285]

I'll be honest, I'm looking at not including the front and rear lockers. I might regret it, but when I did the test drive in Colorado (granted it was a tame course) it was slick with peanut butter mud and I never once lost traction.
Personally I've never had to engage my center diff lock in my 200 series LC either. Not saying I'm a good off-road driver (definitely not the case), just not sure if I'm going to be hitting anything that hard with the IG since it's also my daily driver. I wont be on Fins and Thins in Moab with it.

 

[DaveB]

I'll be honest, I'm looking at not including the front and rear lockers. I might regret it, but when I did the test drive in Colorado (granted it was a tame course) it was slick with peanut butter mud and I never once lost traction.
Personally I've never had to engage my center diff lock in my 200 series LC either. Not saying I'm a good off-road driver (definitely not the case), just not sure if I'm going to be hitting anything that hard with the IG since it's also my daily driver. I wont be on Fins and Thins in Moab with it.

If you have never engaged your centre diff lock then you have never driven in 4WD but more like AWD.
You are correct that in Grenadier will handle your use equal to or better than your LC200
If that is the case then you are correct not to get the front and rear diff locks.

 

[Dieselhorse]

I didn´t opt for the diff locks for two reasons. First, in 22 years off Defender riding I didn´t need them a single time. When I got stuck, it was always a winch job, so a winch is a must on my vehicles. The second reason is that the factory diff locks are electronically operated ones. I don´t trust that, it´s full mechanical and manually operated or nothing. That simple.

 

[AnD3rew]

I didn´t opt for the diff locks for two reasons. First, in 22 years off Defender riding I didn´t need them a single time. When I got stuck, it was always a winch job, so a winch is a must on my vehicles. The second reason is that the factory diff locks are electronically operated ones. I don´t trust that, it´s full mechanical and manually operated or nothing. That simple.

I am a little confused about that, you said you didn’t need them but you did need to winch. Does that mean you had them but never used them? Or that you didn’t have them. In either case how do you know that if you had used them you would still have needed to winch? Surely you use/have them to avoid getting into situations where you will need to winch?

 

[Dieselhorse]

I am a little confused about that, you said you didn’t need them but you did need to winch. Does that mean you had them but never used them? Or that you didn’t have them. In either case how do you know that if you had used them you would still have needed to winch? Surely you use/have them to avoid getting into situations where you will need to winch?

Sorry about the confusion I caused, please let me explain. I owned and operated four LR Defenders in 22 years, two of them with diff locks (one on a second hand car and one on a car fitted by my brother as a birthday gift). In the rare cases when I got stuck, the diff locks didn´t offer any help because the tires refused to give some grip in the sump I managed myself into. So, it were winch jobs. In all the other cases, center diff lock and low range gear (where needed) did perfectly well.

 

[Boston Boy]

I know on 80 series Land Cruisers the OEM locking axle dropout is different than the non-locking version so it is more involved and costly to replace the dropout and everything with it.

For a time I had a 1995 triple locked 80-series Land Cruiser and a 1997 without the axle lockers. Ended up selling the ‘95 due to engine issues and it being in rough shape, but I always wish my ‘97 had them. I’ve been stuck once in it and had to use my ‘95 to get it out. Helped that it had a winch…

So I am 100% on the factory lockers but only 50% on the factory winch. Depends what the price is I guess. I plan on a fairly modest build with the big ticket items that can’t easily be added after the fact (lockers, safari windows, 2nd battery) then adding in other items as they come out in the market.

But, if you find yourself stuck in mud (as I have been in clay in our D3) can you even get the lockers to then engage once you are stuck?