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ARB single compressor install , the painful way .

Lollo050968

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Only this phrase is important:
"If you replicate the below you do so at your own risk. Any professionals reading please free to chime in. Any advice, comments and observations welcomed."

I am now mounting my compressor, slowly, with my "slightly different" own ideas ... thanks for your input, and others (@Barney and @Highwayman ... and perhaps i forget other people on the forum), I understand part of the electrical, pneumatic and mechanical stuff, but am not a specialist! Therefore, if something goes wrong: my fault!

And if somebody can help me: I am looking for a connector, let's say something like the Deutsch plugs to be able to connect and disconnect the 12V "live" wires of the car to the compressor. The Deutsch plugs are rated 25A max, and I want 40A minimum!
Hello @Jean Mercier ,
have a look at Anderson Plugs:

 

Tinki

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Only this phrase is important:
"If you replicate the below you do so at your own risk. Any professionals reading please free to chime in. Any advice, comments and observations welcomed."

I am now mounting my compressor, slowly, with my "slightly different" own ideas ... thanks for your input, and others (@Barney and @Highwayman ... and perhaps i forget other people on the forum), I understand part of the electrical, pneumatic and mechanical stuff, but am not a specialist! Therefore, if something goes wrong: my fault!

And if somebody can help me: I am looking for a connector, let's say something like the Deutsch plugs to be able to connect and disconnect the 12V "live" wires of the car to the compressor. The Deutsch plugs are rated 25A max, and I want 40A minimum!
Jean my friend i did the same research as you .
My solution is to use dthd series connectors with size 8 pins . ( make sure you get the right pins ) .

My options were as in photo below .
Dthd , anderson , 2 wire circular din connector .

I will be replacing my anderson power poles with the DTHD when i will be installing the inverter and the ctek .

Hope this helps . If you want i can fish for the part numbers .
 

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Tinki

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Jean my friend i did the same research as you .
My solution is to use dthd series connectors with size 8 pins . ( make sure you get the right pins ) .

My options were as in photo below .
Dthd , anderson , 2 wire circular din connector .

I will be replacing my anderson power poles with the DTHD when i will be installing the inverter and the ctek .

Hope this helps . If you want i can fish for the part numbers .
forgot to mention dthd 8 is good for 60 amps
 

Tinki

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If I understand it correctly, DTHD is a one wire connector, while the two others are two wires?
Yes the dthd are a single wire connector . So you will need 2 sets to wire the compressor up .
The other are 2 wire connectors .
But only the Dthd and din are waterproof .
 

Tinki

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Ich habe das benutzt. Aber ich denke, es gibt bessere Optionen. Eine starke Version mit IsolierbandView attachment 7832153
Barney my friend , i do not think that is wise . Those terminal blocks depending on size are rated to 16A max . Please check and make sure the one you used is good enough .
I would not use something like that if i were in your shoes .
Better connectors can be had for cheap . Please dont burn your Gren down .
Unless you are suing really really big terminal block connectors rated for 60A.
 

Jean Mercier

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Not because I don't believe the people in this chat with their advice, but because too tired after a long day working (as an interpreter, not as an engineer anymore) to search for placing an order on Amazon or another platform (including some other stuff), and as a kind of relaxing, I did ask Chat GPT the next question:

Q: I am looking for a watertight automotive connector, 2 wires, at least 40A (Q means "question" ;), A means "answer" in the next phrase)

A: When looking for a watertight automotive connector for 2 wires that can handle at least 40A of current, you'll want to consider connectors designed for high-current applications and have weatherproof or waterproof features. Here are some options to consider:
  1. Deutsch Connectors: Deutsch connectors are well-known for their ruggedness and weatherproof properties. They offer various series, including the DT series, which can handle high current. Look for DT connectors with appropriate pin and socket configurations for your 2-wire setup.
  2. Amphenol AT Series: Amphenol AT connectors are also known for their durability and weather resistance. They offer a range of connector options that can handle high current loads. Ensure you choose the right contacts and sealing options for your specific requirements.
  3. TE Connectivity AMP Superseal 1.0 Series: These connectors are designed for automotive applications and are known for their water resistance. They are available with 2-pin configurations and can handle high currents.
  4. Molex MX150 Sealed Connector System: The Molex MX150 series is designed for harsh environments and can be used in automotive applications. They offer a sealed system that is water-resistant and available in 2-pin configurations.
  5. Delphi Weather Pack Connectors: While not specifically designed for high current, Weather Pack connectors are weather-resistant and can handle moderate current loads. If your application allows for lower current or you can use multiple connectors in parallel, these may be an option.
  6. Anderson Powerpole Connectors: These connectors are widely used in high-current applications and can be weatherproofed with appropriate covers and boots. You can choose the Powerpole connectors that match your current requirements.
Make sure to check the specifications and ratings of the connectors to ensure they can handle the 40A current load safely. Additionally, consider using proper sealing techniques and boots to make the connections waterproof in your specific automotive application.

The answer is quite good, compared to the solutions proposed, perhaps we should use that more often :unsure:
Second time I use Chat GPT, the first time was in April, only to test it and having an account. Now I used it for a "real" question!
 

Barney

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Barney my friend , i do not think that is wise . Those terminal blocks depending on size are rated to 16A max . Please check and make sure the one you used is good enough .
I would not use something like that if i were in your shoes .
Better connectors can be had for cheap . Please dont burn your Gren down .
Unless you are suing really really big terminal block connectors rated for 60A.
I bought this.
 

Barney

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@ Jean Mercier They are ok up to 40 A and approved for vehicles. But not waterproof. I would also prefer to install a waterproof connection in your car. I hope I never get water in the battery compartment
 

Tinki

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I bought this.
My friend if i am not mistaken these types of connectors are for solid wires not stranded . Usually used in houses .
I would also avoid this .
PM me your address i will send you some anderson power pole connectors i have a few extra .
 

Tinki

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My friend if i am not mistaken these types of connectors are for solid wires not stranded . Usually used in houses .
I would also avoid this .
PM me your address i will send you some anderson power pole connectors i have a few extra .
Happy to be corrected on the above but pretty sure that they are indeed for solid wire .
 
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Jean Mercier

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I will never need 50 pieces, I would be happy to send you some by post.
That is very nice of you, but I will probably make my own choice between Anderson and the two pin DIN connector. I didn't decide yet. (Too busy, and not in a hurry).
(y) :)
 

Jean Mercier

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Yesterday I finally finished my CKMA12 ARB compressor install I got my inspiration mainly from:

@Barney
https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...nadier-today.12411127/page-77#post-1333217887

and @Highwayman
https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...nadier-today.12411127/page-40#post-1333192813

and @Tinki
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/arb-single-compressor-install-the-painful-way.12413024

and some others.

Took me some time to mount it, because I wanted to do it as decently as possible (I am an amateur), my car hasn’t a shed, is sleeping outside, and the Belgian weather is horrible, therefore I had to wait for dry days.

I still have to check if there are no small air leaks, but I could inflate my spare tire from 2.5 bar to 3.0 bar.

But … the first moment I checked the compressor I had a huge leak on the connector: First reaction was “shit”, until I I saw that I could dismount it with my hand, no tools …I forgot I only did mount it temporarily without putting any Teflon tape! :eek: :p

I will not go into all the details of my compressor mounting, see the posts above, and in the meantime some more, but I am happy to share some pictures and some tips.

For the electrical part I used – as did @Highwayman – the Ineos provided wires.
In the next picture you can see the (my) wiring:

my compressor.png

Some comments on this wiring diagram:
Instead of disconnecting my battery to avoid short circuits, I removed the 40A FI13 fuse, not easy by the way, because stuck between other fuses, I lost the cover while dismounting, probably somewhere in my car, but I had spare fuses. See picture below:

20231129_161724 removed.jpg

Before showing some other pictures:
  • I didn’t drill holes in the Grenadier, I used the available studs like the other posters above did.
  • I used a stainless steel plate of 2mm, and learned that you need real decent cobalt drill bits to make holes in it! :eek:
  • I did cut the trim patiently with a hobby cutter in the back of the trim, for the hole for inserting the switch.
  • I used Teflon tape for fitting the air connections (pressure switch and air connection). I also got the teflon tape from my father (he died in 2008!). I hate to throw things away – I am an amateur 😊
  • The space in the Grenadier is quite tight, therefore I dismounted the compressor from the provided ARB support, and mounted that support first (got that idea from one of the posters above).
  • To mount it back, untighten and don’t tighten the two black screws of the blue housing so that you can rotate and slide the compressor to a suitable position, as well to replace the four supporting screws as to choose your most suitable position fort he inflation nipple. Only tighten them once you are satisfied with the positioning.
Here the pictures, but please read the other posters contributions before asking me questions:
20231029_151232.jpg

20231105_130259.jpg

20231126_141131.jpg

20231129_162228 switch.jpg

20231129_164047.jpg


I bought the compressor together with the inflator from a Belgian company, but I didn’t notice that the coupling was USA standard. Therefore, I replaced it with a European standard (and Teflon tape from my father 😉 ).
20231029_120532 European instead of US nipple.jpg

I would like to thank everybody who had a discussion on suitable compressors and compressor mounting, not only the three I mentioned in the beginning of this post. My experience was “zero”, and I learned a lot by reading all these posts and mounting it myself.
 

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DaBull

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Yesterday I finally finished my CKMA12 ARB compressor install I got my inspiration mainly from:

@Barney
https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...nadier-today.12411127/page-77#post-1333217887

and @Highwayman
https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...nadier-today.12411127/page-40#post-1333192813

and @Tinki
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/arb-single-compressor-install-the-painful-way.12413024

and some others.

Took me some time to mount it, because I wanted to do it as decently as possible (I am an amateur), my car hasn’t a shed, is sleeping outside, and the Belgian weather is horrible, therefore I had to wait for dry days.

I still have to check if there are no small air leaks, but I could inflate my spare tire from 2.5 bar to 3.0 bar.

But … the first moment I checked the compressor I had a huge leak on the connector: First reaction was “shit”, until I I saw that I could dismount it with my hand, no tools …I forgot I only did mount it temporarily without putting any Teflon tape! :eek: :p

I will not go into all the details of my compressor mounting, see the posts above, and in the meantime some more, but I am happy to share some pictures and some tips.

For the electrical part I used – as did @Highwayman – the Ineos provided wires.
In the next picture you can see the (my) wiring:

View attachment 7834460
Some comments on this wiring diagram:
Instead of disconnecting my battery to avoid short circuits, I removed the 40A FI13 fuse, not easy by the way, because stuck between other fuses, I lost the cover while dismounting, probably somewhere in my car, but I had spare fuses. See picture below:

View attachment 7834462
Before showing some other pictures:
  • I didn’t drill holes in the Grenadier, I used the available studs like the other posters above did.
  • I used a stainless steel plate of 2mm, and learned that you need real decent cobalt drill bits to make holes in it! :eek:
  • I did cut the trim patiently with a hobby cutter in the back of the trim, for the hole for inserting the switch.
  • I used Teflon tape for fitting the air connections (pressure switch and air connection). I also got the teflon tape from my father (he died in 2008!). I hate to throw things away – I am an amateur 😊
  • The space in the Grenadier is quite tight, therefore I dismounted the compressor from the provided ARB support, and mounted that support first (got that idea from one of the posters above).
  • To mount it back, untighten and don’t tighten the two black screws of the blue housing so that you can rotate and slide the compressor to a suitable position, as well to replace the four supporting screws as to choose your most suitable position fort he inflation nipple. Only tighten them once you are satisfied with the positioning.
Here the pictures, but please read the other posters contributions before asking me questions:
View attachment 7834463
View attachment 7834464
View attachment 7834465
View attachment 7834467
View attachment 7834468

I bought the compressor together with the inflator from a Belgian company, but I didn’t notice that the coupling was USA standard. Therefore, I replaced it with a European standard (and Teflon tape from my father 😉 ).
View attachment 7834469
I would like to thank everybody who had a discussion on suitable compressors and compressor mounting, not only the three I mentioned in the beginning of this post. My experience was “zero”, and I learned a lot by reading all these posts and mounting it myself.
Hi Jean, Great Job! Thanks for sharing photos and wiring diagram too. I think I will follow you on my install. It is nice that the ARB compressor and inflator are already Shale Blue to match my vehicle. ;) DaBull
 

Jean Mercier

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Hi Jean, Great Job! Thanks for sharing photos and wiring diagram too. I think I will follow you on my install. It is nice that the ARB compressor and inflator are already Shale Blue to match my vehicle. ;) DaBull
Are you saying that I should paint it Sela Green to match my car :eek:
 

TheDocAUS

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Q: I am looking for a watertight automotive connector, 2 wires, at least 40A (Q means "question" ;), A means "answer" in the next phrase)

A: When looking for a watertight automotive connector for 2 wires that can handle at least 40A of current, you'll want to consider connectors designed for high-current applications and have weatherproof or waterproof features. Here are some options to consider:
  1. Deutsch Connectors: Deutsch connectors are well-known for their ruggedness and weatherproof properties. They offer various series, including the DT series, which can handle high current. Look for DT connectors with appropriate pin and socket configurations for your 2-wire setup.
...
Make sure to check the specifications and ratings of the connectors to ensure they can handle the 40A current load safely. Additionally, consider using proper sealing techniques and boots to make the connections waterproof in your specific automotive application.

Deutsch DT and DTP plug are not rated to 40 amps, 13 and 25 amps max. See image. The AI needs to go back to school.
deuplugs-jpg.7808047
 
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