ARB single compressor install , the painful way .

[Jean Mercier]

...


Deutsch DT and DTP plug are not rated to 40 amps, 13 and 25 amps max. See image. The AI needs to go back to school.

Hmmm ... I didn’t use Deutsch DTP plugs to connect my compressor, but an Anderson plug.
Not water tight, but I placed it as high as possible.
All the other connectors provided by ARB aren't waterproof either.

 

[Tazzieman]

Hmmm ... I didn’t use Deutsch DTP plugs to connect my compressor, but an Anderson plug.
Not water tight, but I placed it as high as possible.
All the other connectors provided by ARB aren't waterproof either.

I reckon an Anderson plug would still work underwater.
Salt though , over time would reduce the compressors vitality

 

[TheDocAUS]

Hmmm ... I didn’t use Deutsch DTP plugs to connect my compressor, but an Anderson plug.
Not water tight, but I placed it as high as possible.
All the other connectors provided by ARB aren't waterproof either.

True Anderson plugs are not water tight, but they work when wet. They are fine for external use in most situations. So you could use an Anderson plug on a compressor installed externally, like in an engine bay.

 

[Krabby]

Hmmm ... I didn’t use Deutsch DTP plugs to connect my compressor, but an Anderson plug.
Not water tight, but I placed it as high as possible.
All the other connectors provided by ARB aren't waterproof either.

If there's enough water in your truck to affect the air compressor, you've got bigger problems than a wet Anderson connector!

 

[Sev4x4]

Are you saying that I should paint it Sela Green to match my car

Hi Jean, is the compressor getting excessively hot? Any concerns with wires and batteries?

 

[Jean Mercier]

Hi Jean, is the compressor getting excessively hot? Any concerns with wires and batteries?

I didn't use it very extensively, because I didn't need it yet, but when I tested it, no concerns at all. The only small problem is that the air tightness isn't perfect. According to ARB it should hold 15 minutes without having to compress again (when not using it) and I have 4 minutes.

 

[Barney]

My experience is that the compressor gets very hot when you inflate 4 tires, but no heat for the battery or cables nearby if they are not directly on the compressor housing. However, the heat can easily escape upwards and the advantage under the seat is that the air is less dusty than outside on the ground.

 

[Sev4x4]

Thank you Jean and Barney

 

[Cheshire cat]

So cables crimped and connectors installed on the Gren .
Then comes the side of the compressor ( I de-pinned the original connector and used Anderson again )
The fact that the Gren already had a fuse for this circuit I omitted mine from my pig tail . I used a 40 amp 12 v relay to control the compressor and a switch.

I used a relay that can me mounted on the Gren ( a lot of spare studs on the vertical part of the floor . ( tried mounting a relay base initially to be easy to change the relay if needed but due to the space constraint and the length of the studs it did not work , tried also a coupling nut and button head screw also did not work to my liking )

Location of Relay.
View attachment 7825440

The last bit is the switch I wanted this to be accessible without needing to lift he rear seat . so I decided to mount it with the air coupler. Will discuss this at the next bit.

Because I wanted to be able to use the air compressor with the Gren off I ignored the ignition wire. to avoid accidental activation (and for cool factor , could not resist) I used a covered switch .

To finish the harness I wrapped it with the finest quality chinesium tape ( could not find my tesa tape ) most likely someone nicked it . my brother insisted it was not him that turned out to be a lie, anyway .

Finished product comparison between my harness and the original supplied by ARB .

View attachment 7825441


Crimps used for the Anderson connectors :
View attachment 7825442


Air quick coupler + switch install :

Now this was a real head scratcher, almost came close to saying duck it and drilling a hole on the battery “box” but instead I cracked open a cold one and revisited it the next day.

So my solution to this is a bracket fabricated to attach with M10 sleeve nuts on the seat backet . Here I was playing with Millimetres very very annoying due to the proximity of the seat to the battery box . But its doable.

View attachment 7825443

View attachment 7825444

The bracket sits on the shelf on the left and extends up to the edge of the seat. I made sure there was enough clearance when lifting the seat and nothing was rubbing .

To connect the compressor to the palate I thought of 2 options. The easiest of the 2 is to use push in fittings and PTFE air line. The other is to use stainless braided PTFE lined hose . I opted for the second hoping that it will help dissipate some heat form the system .
View attachment 7825445

Now the outlets of the compressor are 1/8 NPT for the manifold silver bit and ¼ NPT for the black bit . I used an 1/8 NPT pressure switch on the manifold because of my future plans instead of the supplied ¼ NPT.

I decided to keep everything NPT and use the ARB couplers (They are US standard, might make an adaptor or change them later).

Connection is as follows SS braided line from compressor (in the future a T will be placed there to plumb the other side) that goes to the aluminium plate.

At the plate connection it would make sense to use an elbow but my plate was too thick for that so I opted for a bulkhead fitting and a 90 degree elbow .

Then the ARB quick coupler simply threads in. (I checked it does not interfere with the door or you legs)

The switch had to be mounted on the other side because there is simply no space.

Again this could be very easy if you are happy to drill the battery box. IF you do it the way I did just know there is minimal to no margin for error ( I have a lot of scrap aluminium prototypes to prove it )

View attachment 7825446
View attachment 7825447
Future plans:

1)Second air coupler on the left-hand side of the car with its own switch.

2)Professional made and anodised brackets. (Always good to know a machinist)

3) Third air coupler at the back of the car.

4) wiring revision for all watertight connectors (on the hunt for 40Amp 2 wire connectors that are not larger than the compressor itself + a delphi relay base)



That is all guys

Thank you hope you enjoyed. please feel free to share your installs.

Brilliant work and description Tinki. I bought the same ARB system but as a self contained unit. Would really like to set it up as you have done.

 

[Tinki]

Update on set up .
Managed to get around to installing the second coupler on the passenger side .
Used exactly the same bracket as before , cut only using hand tools .
Mounting position is the same as the other side .

This time i decided to use plastic pneumatic line instead of ss braided line . Reason being all custom lines were too bulky and could not get an off the shelf long one . So 3/8 tubing worked great . I used 2 different fittings on either end simply because of space constraint . Dot A on the coupler side , simple push in on the compressor side .

Because i do not yet trust the tubing and its the most likely point of failure i added an isolation valve on the compressor side . So even if the tubing fails then i have the driver side working .

Tubing got zip tied under the seat bracket .


Since i was playing with pneumatic fittings and what not i deceded to make my own tyre inflation deflation apparatus . N.B if you had to buy every single item to build this most likely it will end up more expensive than buying it off the shelf . Anyway got the inspiration from another forum member, apologies could not find the post again .(reply to the thread so i can add you to the credits ) .

View attachment IMG_0596.jpeg
This has a hose tail gets attached to the car and then able to inflate or deflate 2 tires at the same time .

Future plans :
1) switch install ( awaited in the post )
2)rear cargo coupler (likely will use tubing)


Thanks for looking guys


Note : ARB use industrial couplers called M style . Mainly used in USA + Australia . I will keep going with this standard for now . Once i am happy with all accessories and positions i most likely will change to euro profile .