Air Conditioning quits, requires engine re-start in high heat/humidity

[elcalvoMike]

Just adding on. I had intermittent issues as well on a 3-4 hour road trip on a hot day. Then got the hot air blast at one point and now it's really out. Knauz Ineos says it's a cracked hose that is leaking. They have had a couple like this.(3 out of 300). Luckily my first service is next week so parts ordered and hopefully it'll be all good after that.

 

[BenTN]

OP here with an update:

At the request of my dealer (Regal in Atlanta GA) I sent them a video of the symptoms (AC off and not responsive to button pushes) after the problem occurs. They indicated that they were sending it to the regional (?) INEOS rep and would get back to me.

In the mean time, I have discovered something useful!

When the A/C system drops out, I was previously turning the car off and on in order to regain A/C function. It turns out that if I follow the process below, the A/C will come back to life every time and work perfectly (for a while) again:

Turn fan to OFF
Press and hold A/C On button for a few seconds (nothing happens, as expected)
Turn fan to ON (turn up to any speed)
Press A/C On button

Air conditioning comes back on and blows cold!

This trick quite possibly saved my marriage when we were all dressed up and running late to a graduation a few weeks ago.

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

Thanks, I’ll try that trick next time it goes out.

 

[Tom109]

OP here with an update:

At the request of my dealer (Regal in Atlanta GA) I sent them a video of the symptoms (AC off and not responsive to button pushes) after the problem occurs. They indicated that they were sending it to the regional (?) INEOS rep and would get back to me.

In the mean time, I have discovered something useful!

When the A/C system drops out, I was previously turning the car off and on in order to regain A/C function. It turns out that if I follow the process below, the A/C will come back to life every time and work perfectly (for a while) again:

Turn fan to OFF
Press and hold A/C On button for a few seconds (nothing happens, as expected)
Turn fan to ON (turn up to any speed)
Press A/C On button

Air conditioning comes back on and blows cold!

This trick quite possibly saved my marriage when we were all dressed up and running late to a graduation a few weeks ago.

Bummer this don’t work for me. I bookmarked it and followed your process to a T. Decided to drive 5 miles, shutdown & run a few errand on foot. When we returned, so did the AC.

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

Went out again today after a short 5 minute drive to the market. Blew cold on the way there. Blew hot, really hot when I turned it on to drive home. Unfortunately it’s over 100 degrees today, AC is definitely needed.
Contacted the dealer and they still don’t have any idea what is causing it.

Does Ineos know or have they acknowledged the issue? I would think with so many having this issue they would at least say they are aware of it and are working on it.

 

[Hotrunner]

Ich habe gute Neuigkeiten zu melden.
Seit 12 Tkm fahre ich ohne Klimaanlage weil die bis jetzt nicht funktionierte. Gerade bin ich in der Türkei und bei 30 Grad ist es nicht angenehm im Grenny zu sitzen. Gerade als Pollenallergieker ist es nicht ratsam mit offenen Fenster zu fahren, von dem Lärm ganz abgesehen.
Ich habe festgestellt dass der Kondensator der Kälteanlage immer sehr heiß war. Der Kondensator soll ja das Kältemittel kondensieren. Irgend ein Sensor hat wohl immer gemeint Lüfter mit höchste Drehzahl in Betrieb zu nehmen weil das Gas zu heiß war. Deswegen hatte ich auch den Lärm eines startenden Fliegers.
Ich habe folgendes gemacht
1. Den Schlauch Punkt 1 vom Kondensator abgezogen. Bitte alles im kalten Zustand
2. Den Schlauch Punkt 2 vom T Stück abziehen, eine zweite Person sollte jetzt die Öffnung am T Stück zu halten so dass nicht die ganze Kühlflüssigkeit ausläuft.
3. Den zu letzt abgezogenen Schlauch hochstellen und mit Wasser langsam füllen bis Flüssigkeit aus dem Kondensator rausläuft.
4. Jetzt schnell den Schlauch auf das T Stück aufstecken/befestigen und den Schlauch am Kondensator aufstecken.
Flüssigkeitsstand im Ausdehnungsbehälter prüfen und die Kälte genießen.
Dies alles setzt natürlich voraus dass in der Anlage genug Kältemittel vorhanden ist.
Ich finde ein Verfahrensingenieuer hätte am Austritt des Kondensators eine Entlüftungsventils vorgesehen. Ich habe 36 Jahre in der Raffinerie gearbeitet, jeder Austauscher hat mindestens eine Entlüftungsbohrung.
Seit dem ist der Kondensator bei eingeschaltete Klimaanlage kalt und kein Lüftungslärm. View attachment 7853983

hi, if that doesn't help please let me know

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

hi, if that doesn't help please let me know

Do you have a translation for what you posted?

 

[Hotrunner]

Google

 

[Catpaw4x4]

Do you have a translation for what you posted?

From Google translate:
I have good news to report.
I've been driving without air conditioning for 12,000 km because it wasn't working until now. I'm in Turkey right now and it's not comfortable to sit in the Grenny when it's 30 degrees. Especially if you are allergic to pollen, it is not advisable to drive with the windows open, not to mention the noise.
I noticed that the condenser of the refrigeration system was always very hot. The condenser is supposed to condense the refrigerant. Some sensor probably always meant that the fan was running at the highest speed because the gas was too hot. That's why I heard the noise of a plane taking off.
I did the following
1. Pulled off the hose point 1 from the condenser. Please do everything cold
2. Pull the hose point 2 off the T piece. A second person should now hold the opening on the T piece so that all the coolant does not flow out.
3. Raise the hose that was last removed and slowly fill it with water until liquid flows out of the condenser.
4. Now quickly attach/attach the hose to the T piece and attach the hose to the condenser.
Check the fluid level in the expansion tank and enjoy the cold.
Of course, all of this assumes that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
I think a process engineer would have provided a vent valve at the outlet of the condenser. I worked in the refinery for 36 years, every exchanger has at least one vent hole.
Since then, when the air conditioning is switched on, the condenser is cold and there is no ventilation noise.

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

From Google translate:
I have good news to report.
I've been driving without air conditioning for 12,000 km because it wasn't working until now. I'm in Turkey right now and it's not comfortable to sit in the Grenny when it's 30 degrees. Especially if you are allergic to pollen, it is not advisable to drive with the windows open, not to mention the noise.
I noticed that the condenser of the refrigeration system was always very hot. The condenser is supposed to condense the refrigerant. Some sensor probably always meant that the fan was running at the highest speed because the gas was too hot. That's why I heard the noise of a plane taking off.
I did the following
1. Pulled off the hose point 1 from the condenser. Please do everything cold
2. Pull the hose point 2 off the T piece. A second person should now hold the opening on the T piece so that all the coolant does not flow out.
3. Raise the hose that was last removed and slowly fill it with water until liquid flows out of the condenser.
4. Now quickly attach/attach the hose to the T piece and attach the hose to the condenser.
Check the fluid level in the expansion tank and enjoy the cold.
Of course, all of this assumes that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
I think a process engineer would have provided a vent valve at the outlet of the condenser. I worked in the refinery for 36 years, every exchanger has at least one vent hole.
Since then, when the air conditioning is switched on, the condenser is cold and there is no ventilation noise.

I wonder if this will work for the people who have been having intermittent issues and not constant as it sounds like this issue was?

I appreciate the detailed instructions but I’m still a little confused or maybe just unsure I would know what to do. Maybe if I had his 3 decades plus experience in a refinery.

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

Google

I’ve never tried or knew about the translate function. Just tried it and worked great. I learn something new everyday. Thanks

 

[Wartowne]

Went to buy a "2024" Grenadier (build date 12/23) in Houston today. Got all the paperwork completed, cranked the truck up to drive away and the AC was blowing scalding hot air in the front and back. We grabbed a staff member who checked it out and immediately got the GM. After asking what we would like to do, my wife said "Absolutely we do not want this vehicle" Indeed, it demonstrated ALL of the symptoms everyone is describing. The dealership let us pick out a different truck, (build date 5/24) and we happily drove it home 100% functional. Mossy Road Grenadier is, as I understand, the highest volume dealer in the world. They treated us fantastic and we now have 150 miles on our Scottish White truck as of this posting. Very impressed with the Grenadier and hope that the good vibes continue!

 

[Skydance]

Went to buy a "2024" Grenadier (build date 12/23) in Houston today. Got all the paperwork completed, cranked the truck up to drive away and the AC was blowing scalding hot air in the front and back. We grabbed a staff member who checked it out and immediately got the GM. After asking what we would like to do, my wife said "Absolutely we do not want this vehicle" Indeed, it demonstrated ALL of the symptoms everyone is describing. The dealership let us pick out a different truck, (build date 5/24) and we happily drove it home 100% functional. Mossy Road Grenadier is, as I understand, the highest volume dealer in the world. They treated us fantastic and we now have 150 miles on our Scottish White truck as of this posting. Very impressed with the Grenadier and hope that the good vibes continue!

It’s good to here the new builds don’t have this issue. Now waiting for a fix to be fitted retrospectively, promising.

 

[anand]

It’s good to here the new builds don’t have this issue. Now waiting for a fix to be fitted retrospectively, promising.

There's no "fix", new builds have the same HVAC controls and heater box as the old builds

 

[Skydance]

There's no "fix", new builds have the same HVAC controls and heater box as the old builds

Really that’s very sad. So maybe new buyers should be aware and don’t buy until Ineos fix it quickly.

Unfortunately most have this problem but not all. I can’t understand that.

 

[Wartowne]

There's no "fix", new builds have the same HVAC controls and heater box as the old builds

Day two of driving and we have all kinds of errors. First of all the tire pressure situation is ridiculous. Either too much air or not enough. Constant warnings. The forward collision camera warning light is also now illuminated.

If Ineos can’t get some serious attention to these issues and quickly, I fear for the future of the company.

I would rather it have absolutely no safety systems than to have a multitude of systems that do not work

 

[Roach]

Day two of driving and we have all kinds of errors. First of all the tire pressure situation is ridiculous. Either too much air or not enough. Constant warnings. The forward collision camera warning light is also now illuminated.

If Ineos can’t get some serious attention to these issues and quickly, I fear for the future of the company.

I would rather it have absolutely no safety systems than to have a multitude of systems that do not work

Is it too late to return it for a 2025 or hold?

 

[Wartowne]

Is it too late to return it for a 2025 or hold?

I dont think the 2025 will be any different. It seems we are all just waiting for a BCM update or something to resolve all the common issues everyone is having.

Now to get to the bottom of this 12k mile service “only available at a dealer”…..

 

[anand]

Day two of driving and we have all kinds of errors. First of all the tire pressure situation is ridiculous. Either too much air or not enough. Constant warnings.

There is a 4psi variance allowed between the alarm for low and high pressure, and it takes temperature compensation into account whilst driving (for example, if it is cold in the morning, and one tire is low, it'l alarm, but as that tire warms up and subsequently the pressure comes back into the "allowable" range, it will still show the alarm because it hasn't matched the rise in pressure that the other tires have).

This is why setting cold tire pressures is absolutely critical. After that is set, the warnings are no longer a thing

 

[Wartowne]

There is a 4psi variance allowed between the alarm for low and high pressure, and it takes temperature compensation into account whilst driving (for example, if it is cold in the morning, and one tire is low, it'l alarm, but as that tire warms up and subsequently the pressure comes back into the "allowable" range, it will still show the alarm because it hasn't matched the rise in pressure that the other tires have).

This is why setting cold tire pressures is absolutely critical. After that is set, the warnings are no longer a thing

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off