What's new
The Grenadier Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to contribute to the community by adding your own topics, posts, and connect with other members through your own private inbox! INEOS Agents, Dealers or Commercial vendors please contact admin@theineosforum.com for a commercial account.

Many repairs needed

Lars said:
Not so fast about that one...Mine does that when going over speed bumps, and almost constantly when driving rough dirt roads.
Click to expand...
Mine does the same but it’s a metallic clank, not a ringing spring sound. It’s currently at the dealership for the 12k service and this is on the list. After they get their shot, I’ll go for a few max flex drives and reassess in my (new) garage.
 
Shopkeep said:
Is it the factory steering stabilizer bell housing noise?
Click to expand...
No it's not the steering stabilizer, nor the jack. I had both of those issues and that's a ringing bell sound or "tinkle-tinkle" sound.
The springs are well broken-in. The boinging noise did not start in the first 6 months of ownership and the truck has been driven both on and off road. The springs have been thoroughly cycled.

My guess is the heat shielding, but everthing seems tight. I'm hoping it will just go away! Yea...right
 
Lars said:
Not so fast about that one...Mine does that when going over speed bumps, and almost constantly when driving rough dirt roads. Sounds like you flick a spring..."BOINGGGG". It's annoying and embarrassing when you have to explain what that noise is to passengers. A few other people have reported a similar sound on this forum. I can't figure out what is vibrating...nothing seems loose. I will live with it until my first service. Hopefully others will have reported this issue to the service manager, but I doubt it. If it happed to you, you'd hate it too.
SOUNDS JUST LIKE THIS:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-3qnJxEYmc
Click to expand...
That is exactly what it sounds like. It was so bad I had to pull over and continues to happen when going over bumps. No way that is normal.
 
witt1717 said:
Where do I begin? Water in car that is now frozen and clunks around at every turn or bump. When you wash the car and open the door its like a bucket of water being poured on you. When you go over a bump the car makes a noise like a spring is bouncing back and forth. The passenger air bag is constantly off. The remaining fuel mileage no longer present and can have a half of tank of gas and says refuel now. The door handles get stuck so you can not shut the door at times or open as the button does not move. Took 3 weeks to get scheduled at dealer in area and they stated they only have a couple of mechanics because they are a new dealership. Hoping that these items get fixed on one visit, but do not have a lot of confidence. Anyone have any of these issues?
Click to expand...
Hi, I have the same issue of what sounds like water sloshing around in the rear of the car when turning and now frozen which is making lots of clunks - have you got to the bottom of this !? Many thanks.
 
I don’t know if this will help anyone but after I took delivery of my vehicle for about the first couple of weeks I had a springy/boing/dull thud like noise as if something was hitting the underside of the rear cargo floor. It was driving me nuts but I traced it down to the plastic canister I believe is part of the fuel emissions evaporative system. It’s mounted with three bolts right underneath the rear cargo area above the big exhaust heat shield on the left side of the chassis as you look forward facing the rear of the vehicle.

It was kind of a pain to get to but I found that the three bolts going through the rubber mounts holding the canister in place were only finger tight and the whole unit could easily bounce up and down. The noise would occur on a sharp bump when both rear wheels hit at the same time like a seam in the road or change in pavement height. The canister has some weight/mass to it so when it can bounce around on it’s own it made noise.

You don’t have to dismantle things as far as I did in the picture below. You should be able to reach the three bolts and snug them up with a standard wrench and socket combination with extension from underneath the vehicle. Since snugging up the bolts the canister is held firmly in its mounts and the noise is completely gone. I guess someone on the production line forgot or took a break and missed tightening them up?

It’s hard to see in the picture but I circled the canister in red.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3893.jpeg
    IMG_3893.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 64
Last edited:
My truck had a cracking sound up front shortly after delivery. Sounded horrible, but it was the same sound over and over again so it wasn't something literally cracking. It was very clearly in the front axle. I tried sorting it out for many miles. It happened when hitting speed bumps or humps and similar situations off-road. I was getting tired of hearing it one day while driving out to a blind on a muddy track and kinda hammered the throttle and hit a small eroded section and heard the crack/clunk and then nothing. Sweet sweet nothing!!!! The noise has not come back and nothing appears to be damaged or out of place. I'm curious if it was something in the Double Cardan axle shaft that was never properly seated or..... But it has made life with the other niggles so much better. Had been dealing with that noise for about 9,000miles.
 
Tom109 said:
Mine does the same but it’s a metallic clank, not a ringing spring sound. It’s currently at the dealership for the 12k service and this is on the list. After they get their shot, I’ll go for a few max flex drives and reassess in my (new) garage.
Click to expand...
Did you confirm the bottle jack isn’t simply loose?
 
HereinDaRockies said:
Did you confirm the bottle jack isn’t simply loose?
Click to expand...
Dealer says it was the jack :rolleyes: and they tightened it. I can tell you the jack was tight since I repositioned it after a recent puncture. I can also say the noise was still present on my drive home.

Disappointing. Typical dealer experience I was hoping I would’t have…
 
Tom109 said:
Dealer says it was the jack :rolleyes: and they tightened it. I can tell you the jack was tight since I repositioned it after a recent puncture. I can also say the noise was still present on my drive home.

Disappointing. Typical dealer experience I was hoping I would’t have…
Click to expand...
Repositioned - what did you actually do? I attempted various iterations. Also followed the shitty manual, which said to pump up the jack so it’s affixed in place via hydraulic pressure. lol piss poor strategy.

Then I found out the clanking sound is the piston that moves around in the jack housing and makes clanking noise. So does the pump arm. Tape both components down.

The. I also threw away the useless nylon strap the car came with. Ratcheted it down with a titan strap. Now the noise is gone
 
Last edited:
This Jack storage instruction is literally the most useless instruction ever. It’s literally non-factual. The piston descents after a few days. lol

1737345396508.png
 
For offroad driving I prefer a scissor jack, clearly.

In such a situation (happened on Iceland) it's your only choice to get the axle liftet.

20210805_183942.jpg

AWo
 
But in the case I showed, you need a large Hi-Lift, as the axle has a lot of travel. Better put the jack under the axle, then it lifts immediately.

AWo
 
mcdoogs said:
Isnt passenger airbag being permanently disabled a symptom of disconnecting the battery without waiting for the car to go into sleep mode?

Silly requirement that. My ‘22 Defender that the internet insists is a rolling electrical fire could handle the battery being disconnected at any time with no ill effects.
Click to expand...
You can also turn off the passenger airbag off so you can have a baby seat or non human load.
Possibly this has been done without owners knowledge.


1737500159063.png


1737500077318.png
 
AWo said:
But in the case I showed, you need a large Hi-Lift, as the axle has a lot of travel. Better put the jack under the axle, then it lifts immediately.

AWo
Click to expand...
If the wheel is still on, you lift the wheel. There is an attachment for the Hi-Lift to do that. But there are lots of ways to solve that problem, of course.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

HugoB
A few questions from a new owner
Replies
4
Views
282
SkiBum1
SkiBum1
S
Surprised Today
Replies
16
Views
859
255/85
2
C
How to fix- water accumulates in passenger door seal area
Replies
2
Views
246
Psignore00
Psignore00
parb
I've made it to the long timers club, wet feet and sticky door mechanisms
Replies
8
Views
434
Trialmaster
T
D
My Experience at 6 weeks - someone who LOVE(S) / LOVE(D) the car (please leave your comments and input)
3 4 5
Replies
80
Views
5K
Mountain4x4
M
Forum Store
The officially unofficial podcast for INEOS Automotive Grenadier Works Podcast
INEOS Grenadier Configurator

Latest posts

Share this page
Back
Top Bottom