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Replacing a Wheel Stud

Tom D

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So I snapped a locking wheel nut, (not an OEM one). I had to drill out the stud to remove the nut, That was easy and I had the wheel off in no time. Removing the stud was a pain though.
I already had the replacement studs, they come in a set of 6 and cost £11 each!

The end of the stud that screws in to the hub is a different thread (M14x2?) to the wheel end (M14x1.5).
My original plan was to use a stud extractor, this just wouldn’t grip enough to turn. I then tried the stud extractor in conjunction with vice grips on the exposed thread. This also didn’t work.
So I took it to my brothers workshop and welded a nut onto the remaining stud. This sheared off due to the hole that I had drilled for the crappy stud extractor….

So I had to remove. The calliper and the disc to expose more stud and weld another nut on. This time it worked…

I’m just going to ditch the locking wheel nuts. If someone wants to steal them it will probably be less hassle.
 
Tom D

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A few pics.
 

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Tazzieman

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Greasemonkey

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Tom D said:
A few pics.
Click to expand...
Did I understand correctly that the wheel bolts on the Ineos are screwed into the wheel hub and not pressed in? I'm asking because my dealer sold me wheel bolts that need to be pressed in from the backside ( see picture ) But if there are actually bolts which need to be screwed in, how should you replace them outside of a workshop with a welder, special tools, etc. ?
 

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Tom D

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Well unless they have radically changed the design I’d say you have the wrong studs.
Or yours are for the front and mine are rear???

I’m fairly sure that the fronts are the same though.
 
Shopkeep

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Greasemonkey said:
Did I understand correctly that the wheel bolts on the Ineos are screwed into the wheel hub and not pressed in? I'm asking because my dealer sold me wheel bolts that need to be pressed in from the backside ( see picture ) But if there are actually bolts which need to be screwed in, how should you replace them outside of a workshop with a welder, special tools, etc. ?
Click to expand...
Just spitballing: maybe these spline bolts are for the spare wheel carrier???
 
Rok_Dr

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More part numbers and some confusion. Looking at the pics they certainly look to be screw in, but that doesn't explain the other splined stud with an ineos part number.
 
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Rok_Dr

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bakepl said:
Now once again... if we only had those promised workshop manuals..... 😶 just say'n... 😅
Click to expand...
An online electronic parts catalogue would be lovely as well. Jaguar land rover have really set the standard there with their classic vehicles.
 
Greasemonkey

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Tom D said:
Well unless they have radically changed the design I’d say you have the wrong studs.
Or yours are for the front and mine are rear???

I’m fairly sure that the fronts are the same though.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I'll check this on my vehicle now. On the other hand, the screw-type bolts (studs) are available everywhere, as they are industry standard.
 
TD5-90

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Greasemonkey said:
Thanks for the reply. I'll check this on my vehicle now. On the other hand, the screw-type bolts (studs) are available everywhere, as they are industry standard.
Click to expand...
Maybe not these special ones with 2 different thread pitches?
 
Greasemonkey

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Tom D said:
For reference
Click to expand...
I just checked the front wheel bolts on my Ineos. It actually appears that the flat head bolts with flutes were used at the front. I couldn't take a picture as they are very hidden, but you could see the flat heads of the wheel bolts. I have now written to my dealer and asked for confirmation. I also have 2 questions: Could you provide the dimensions (thread and length) of the rear bolts. Wouldn't it have been possible to unscrew the rest of the bolt with a pair of grip pliers or were they so tight that only heat helped?
 
Tom D

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Greasemonkey said:
I just checked the front wheel bolts on my Ineos. It actually appears that the flat head bolts with flutes were used at the front. I couldn't take a picture as they are very hidden, but you could see the flat heads of the wheel bolts. I have now written to my dealer and asked for confirmation. I also have 2 questions: Could you provide the dimensions (thread and length) of the rear bolts. Wouldn't it have been possible to unscrew the rest of the bolt with a pair of grip pliers or were they so tight that only heat helped?
Click to expand...
I’ll check the front ones next time I have a wheel off.
I think the overall length is 82mm but I’ll check that.
The ones commonly available on line are usually conversion kits for vehicles with wheel bolts to convert to stud and nut.
They are definitely two different thread pitches.
It was very tight in there. I think the threads are deliberately cut tighter on the hub to prevent them working lose.
 
Greasemonkey

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To see it properly you have to remove the front brake caliper, but I am now pretty sure that the front and the rear studs are different. Basicall, none of this is a problem, you just have to know it. I wrote to the dealer. But they are on vacation until January 1st, 2025. I will let you know if I get an answer.
The picture shows the front studs.
 

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anand

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The fronts are 100% press in
 
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