Have a word with your dealer and ask where are Ineos upto with the remedial work required. I was under the impression that there was an fix in the offing.
Hi Eric
I posted info on obtaining the missing pins here.
I can see why a third party company doesn't want to get involved with this work, especially when a vehicle is still under warranty, but Ineos really need to sort this asap and come clean how close they are to a solution being available instead of "they are aware of the issue", they are "working on it". This is a fundamental design flaw and a complete lack of understanding of different countries marketing requirement and vehicle usage. There is an European and UK standard for 7 pin and 13 pin wiring layouts (no doubt Aus and US ones as well) why did they see fit to deviate from these international standards?
I read you post about obtaining the missing pins, all good stuff. very interested in the route you run your extra wires. Any photos. Any help greatly received.
Apologies @Bobineos, I missed this.
Hi Thanks for taking the time to reply, wow, was hoping it would be a bit easier than what you had to go through.
I don't know how the Aus 7 flat pins are wired BUT when towing with the UK spec 13 pin plug and a 13 -> 7 pin adaptor is inserted to tow a small trailer without reversing lights, when reverse is engage you get the "Trailer light Error" message as the canbus looks for the reversing lights.
Cheers, except the error messages occurred during normal driving (having been fine for about the first 20 minutes of the journey home), well before I reversed the trailer into our driveway. Curious...
Just collected my Grenadier from our Perth (Western Aust) with the tow pack installed. Surprised to find a Redarc electric brake controller installed but still only the 13 pin Euro Plug + Nato plug. I have obtained a 13 pin to 7 pin flat adapter but still have no idea where power up the Anderson plug from. There seems to be very little info on the electrics of this vehicle.
I completely removed the NATO plug including the wiring loom all the way back to the relay box in the rear cargo space cubby hole on the driver’s side. I then ran my own cable, directly from the unused 60Amp modular fuse in the main fuse block to where the NATO plug was located. I ran this cable behind the passenger side cargo area trim panel and through the large grommet in the wheel arch down to where the NATO plug used to sit. I made a double bracket to mount the Anderson plug and a solar input plug (Also Anderson, but in a blue color). This solar cable runs along the same path as the Anderson trailer electrics cable as described, but terminates on the CTEK DCDC Charger. I can provide photos if you like.
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Here’s some photos of the brackets I made for the Anderson plugs and my 7-pin flat trailer electrics plug. Routing the cables was as described in my post from April.
I’ll have a look and see if I took any other photos at the time. I did make a small bracket to mount a 50A MIDI fuse holder for the solar input that I put under the rear passenger seat.
