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Underbody Protection from Rival

crashnburn

crashnburn

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I understand they are manufacturer logos (could be wrong).

I always use grease/antiseize between 2 different metals to avoid galvanic corrosion.
LRs are known for these.

Zinc-plated hardware would be great (add grease/antiseize between), it just means we have to spend a few more for the hardware.
 
[ Adam ]

[ Adam ]

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I installed the trans skid plate today, it went in quite nicely. The opening is aligned with the engine oil drain plug.

1717785095872.jpg


I ran into a bit of an issue installing the transfer case skid - I think I may have cross threaded the nutsert they use for attaching the skid plate to the cross member. Regardless, the wire holding nutsert broke, resulting in a free spinning nutsert.

Amazingly, I was able to cut the bolt and extract the nutsert from the x-member.

1717785500708.jpg


I've followed up with an inquiry to Rival, and an order of HD Rivnuts from McMaster Carr. I'm not a fan of nutserts in general. We'll see if these rivnuts fit the bill.

1717787708264.jpg


Transmission skid was my highest priority - so I'm glad to have that installed. I'm very impressed with the construction and delivery of the Rival units, and accept that this minor snafu is likely 100% operator error.
 
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[ Adam ]

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I think the m10 rivnuts are going to be a tad small for the application - they require a 13.5 mm hole, and (once I got a battery for my caliper) I measured the one in the x-member at 15ish. I've ordered m12 hardware and m12 hd rivnuts - these require a 17.5mm hole, or approx 11/16. I'll let everyone know how that works out & will post links to mcmaster for these and the hardware I use.
 
Zimm

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Loc Nar said:
After taking a look at the supplied hardware, it seems the bolts are Metric 8.8 quality, which I understand is about as strong as Inch Grade 5:

View attachment 7859097

View attachment 7859098

Thinking about replacing these with bolts in Metric Grade 10.9 (which I understand is equivalent to Inch Grade 8). After looking at the relatively large size of the supplied washers compared to cap head screws, I'm thinking of just going with the washer bolt approach. Anyone know what the other symbols mean on the bolts? Also, thoughts about whether to look into Zinc Yellow Chromate-Plated hardware to resist water corrosion?
Click to expand...
There's no real sheer in this application, and if its threading into existing holes, extraction of seized or broken fasteners is easier if they are softer than the surrounding metal. You'll never ever have an issue with even a grade 2 here. Some sort of anti corrosion treatment is much much more important.

My skid plate experience has led me to strongly favor hex socket button cap stainless fasteners, and anti-seize. A motorcycle jack or tranny jack is a nice purchase for effortless mounting/removal. It's not just weight, as laying on the ground with a long object that needs aligned can be a pita.
 
DaBull

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Loc Nar said:
I just received word from Rival that they have opened their pre-order books for Aluminum skid plate protection for the transfer case and engine:

Transfer Case ($299)

Engine ($349)

For what you get, and compared to the competition, I believe these prices to be fair. I've tossed my hat in for a pre-order of both. They are currently expected to ship 6/1/24. Free shipping by the way, which is huge for a product like this.

Someone with some good screen grab software - please post the pics.

Also, Rival has notified me they are in the process of designing a gas tank skid plate as well as lower control arm guards.
Click to expand...
Today, June 12th, received email from Rival that they have the Rival Aluminum Engine and Transmission Skid Plate order book
open. I ordered one. ETA to their warehouse is 7/31/2024.
DaBull
www.rival4x4usa.com

RIVAL Aluminum Engine And Transmission Skid Plate Ineos Grenadier

THIS IS A BACKORDER PRODUCT Limited batch ETA 7/31 to our warehouses. You may cancel any time before we ship. We retain the right to adjust the estimated availability date based on supply chain conditions. The product may also become available sooner. The high-quality laser cut RIVAL skid plates...
www.rival4x4usa.com www.rival4x4usa.com
 
crashnburn

crashnburn

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Managed to install both skid plates without lifting the G.
The transfer skid plate i got to install with the crawler and jack.
The engine plate I had to wiggle my not so flexible body around.😆
A couple tight spots on the front end but easily done with socket extensions and an open wrench, plus a couple banged knuckles 👊
 
SkiBum1

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Just received my Rival engine skid plate! Looks beautiful and super well built and thick!

This is the last time it will look this good! I hope to beat the hell out of it and the few others that are on the way!
 

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Ovrland Bill

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SkiBum1 said:
Just received my Rival engine skid plate! Looks beautiful and super well built and thick!

This is the last time it will look this good! I hope to beat the hell out of it and the few others that are on the way!
Click to expand...
My skid plate is being delivered today. Do you have any installation tips to pass on yet?
 
crashnburn

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Post #49:
"Managed to install both skid plates without lifting the G.
The transfer skid plate i got to install with the crawler and jack.
The engine plate I had to wiggle my not so flexible body around.😆
A couple tight spots on the front end but easily done with socket extensions and an open wrench, plus a couple banged knuckles 👊"
 
parb

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I got my engine and transmission skid plate today.

Probably goes on this weekend.
 
74CampySuperRecord

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Same here. Received my plate today.

Should the supplied mounting bolts be lubed or thread locked?
 
74CampySuperRecord

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I am having some trouble with installing the Rival engine transmission case skid plate.

The center beam that fits between the frame is slightly too long to fit. Should I use a rubber mallet or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.

Edit: I flipped it around so that the open end is to the rear. It fits now.
 

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74CampySuperRecord

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Pics of beam.
 

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2

255/85

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I wouldn't beat it into place as you will likely chip the powdercoat on the frame. Bending the mounting tabs would seem easier. Get a width measurement and see if matches what others have.
 
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