Thank you. JBL Nano ordered for $185 so will update once installed
Hi anand, Thanks for the heads up on the location of the plug/connector for adding a sub-wolfer. Is that there for those of us who did not order a sub-wolfer and is it a simple plug and play?
I just located the cable. It is plug and play assuming the JBL Nano is the factory fit (which is what I am led to believe). The plug discovered is the same connector for the Nano. Mine will be here in a few days and we shall soon discover.
Given that you have the dual battery setup, where do you plan to install sub?
I see a space behind the center tunnel in front of the inverter but that's not quite big enough and not sure about moving the inverter. If that fails and it probably will it can go under a seat but that would necessitate extending the cables. Not the end of the world but a minor PITA. Dimension wise it's 10-1/4" x 7-11/16" x 2-15/16"(260.0mm x 195.0mm x 74.6mm). Under the passenger seat (LHD) there is plenty of space for it That space is 8.5" wide and about 15" long. Height is no issue. Until I get it and mess with where it can go I won't know for sure, but the sound needs bass. The other spot is mounted to the plastic cover that sites in front of the auxiliary battery. It will fit there without issue but might give a real seat passenger some flappy pants/trousers. It would not foul legroom unless a short person with legs tucked right back, and since my car is predominantly a 2 person vehicle it won't matter much.
I believe it is a fairly standard 10 pin Molex connector; and is wired to provide sufficient power for the factory subwoofer (which is fused at 15A).
Love the step stool!! Have one in purpleI made a paper template for the length and width and offered it up into different possible locations. Key will be vibration mitigation of course, but I'd warrant even the factory install under the seat rattles some plastic
It will go just fit the passenger seat but will need a board to mount it to as it needs to be an inch or off the floor up to clear the taper of the floor shape. There is also a nice hole on the seat frame mount (non moving) that could be used to secure a fastener to anchor the install.
The outer panel in front of the auxiliary battery is a prime candidate but vibration reduction may be needed. Easy, insert acoustic foam between the panel and the battery. Can also add 1/4" or 1/2" ply (painted black) as a base attached to the plastic panel will also increase rigidity without adding bulk. If you fab you could also have a nice anodized aluminum plate instead.
I also took some photos in the rear load space with two possible locations, and showed the template on the plastic trim that sits in front of the battery. It's out currently in readiness. It's also quite substantial so not overly flimsy and with some foam between the battery and itself we may avoid having to reinforce it. My FJ sub was installed run the rear load space, so not unknown, and most kids slap them back there somewhere. Depends on future load carry needs and over landing mods.
You can even install it over the tunnel if you have no need for a middle seat passenger. It could be a thing
Anyway, loads of speculation. I am also going to install the custom ARB compressor kit that fits behind the auxiliary battery, so pulling panels and running lines will be a thing, and extending a harness isn't much more effort. I took the plastics out anyway to make getting the brake controller installed less fiddly as the harness is not overly generous in length, and getting those plastic insulators off the wires has eluded me so they get cut even shorter.
Step is my wife's and she originally got it for my mom. It comes in handy with rock sliders.Love the step stool!! Have one in purple
In my ignorance I thought molex connectors were mostly for PC's. Useful information even if the vehicle doesn't have the factory fitted connector.
My mom is 5 ft
OK so I did the install today. Here are some photos and some details that people might find useful.
First, it is a great quality sub and is solid metal. The base is a heatsink so that also made me consider where to mount it to allow some heat dissipation.
I considered under the passenger seat but to do that well would mean moving the seat and making something to mount it with.
I scratched the idea of mounting on the outside of the plastic trim in the rear passenger footwell. Mainly as the plastic is flimsy and the unit heavy and bass causes rattles. It also would be a real fudge to stop it fouling the floor mats and it would get kick by kids (I don't have any young ones) and others. It may also have got wet and dirt kicked at it.
In the end I went with the rear install. Let me say it sounds amazing! Great sub and gives the audio system all the missing kick that was missing.
Also, the stock harness is so short that installing it anywhere means extending it, so I just thought 3 meters is as easy as 6 inches (confusing isn't it) so I just went for the best option in my opinion.
The sub was $185 from an eBay seller, and arrived as new perfect stock.
The side panel is a beast to get out, but it is all pop off connectors. I also added some foam (cut from the sub packaging) behind in two places just to give some sound baffling and anti vibration. The panel has some attached but it's super thin. This panel is also very solid and is fitted very tight and buts up against the metalwork under the rear window. All this means I have no vibration or reverberation other than that expected and desired.
I used the JBL supplied connector and short wiring harness. Note: Ineos have 8 wires in their harness. JBL combined the pos and neg leads using a 2 into 1 splice. This meant I only had to run a 6 core loom/harness to the rear. I simply twisted the Ineos wires together and soldered them to the new harness I made. Yes, I did finish it all off with conduit cover and tape. It is now all tucked away and safe and neat. Soldered spliced connections, heat shrunk, plastic cover (flexible split conduit), and then taped to prevent it coming apart.
I added some pics on the bench when seeing how it might mount on the plastic battery compartment cover. It gives you some visuals of the unit.
Then the location where it went. Once removed I made a paper template and drilled 4 holes to mount the sub. It uses 4mm metric threaded screws. I used some small bolts with washers and locking washers. I also added blue thread lock to prevent anything shaking loose just in case.
You will see an image with some blue painters tape. That was just to hold the factory noise insulation in place as this was disturbed when I drilled holes. You will also see the added foam from the sub packaging materials. This stops the plastic rattling, assuming it would have anyway.
The image with the panel removed also shows the other bit of foam I added. Note, I also removed the B pillar trim where the seatbelt goes through, and loosened the trim on the B pillar that is next to the seat. I didn't take a photo that but I needed to do that to thread the wiring harness I made. It's all pretty intuitive.
The rest are images of the cable run and splice and the final result. Very impressive sound. Very clean install and probably the best worst location. Unless you need all the space for serious overloading then this will work. If you're going serious overloading then a sub ain't a priority
Now, dealing with those Torx 50 screws. I have an Allen style wrench but even that's a PITA. I have a T50 bit but only a Snap-On bit fits as others are too think on the spines. I found a flat blade 5/16" (about 8mm) bit also fits! Then I have a mini craftsman wrench for screwdriver bits. That is a game changer. Get one here Amazon Link.
I also left you a photo of the now removed factory connector that is useful as a color code if you ever mess up.
Any questions ask away.
Did I mention it sounds awesome and is the missing oomph for the factory setup.
Nice write-up, thanks for documenting the leg work!Took about 5 hours, but the first hour was noodling where to install it
And it also included time to pop to O'Relliy's and be charged excessive amounts of money for some wire/cable to make up the harness 
