What’s NOT in the Owner’s Manual

I had a bit of time doing nothing recently so decided to read the Owner’s Manual given Ineos took the time to make it look like a small encyclopedia (remember them!!).

Anyway there are two things that I have no answer for after reading that I thought I’d check with the “experts” here.

1. Changing from High unlocked to High Locked. At what speeds can this be done? It talks about low range speed but is completely silent re high range locking. On my Toyotas you could do this up to about 100km/hr and I regularly did so around 80-90. So does anyone know the actual answer?? Not your guess but the actual answer from Ineos?

2. Jump starting using the Grenadier as the DONOR vehicle. Again it gives clear instructions about jump starting the grenny, but not when using it to jump another vehicle. I’ve jumped other vehicles a dozen times or more, but only had mine (pre Grenny) done a couple. Usually the donor vehicle negative terminal is used and then connected to an earth point on the receiving car. As the Grenny only has a positive point under the bonnet, where do you connect the negative end?? Earth point to earth point????

Oh, and thirdly, don’t bother scanning the QR code on page 198 to get maintenance and technical information- the QR Code is invalid.

Thanks.

From what I remember (I can't find it in writing now), was that lock/unlock could be done up to about 25-30km/h

Earth (ground) point is the engine hoisting ring just visible under the engine cover

anand said:

From what I remember (I can't find it in writing now), was that lock/unlock could be done up to about 25-30km/h

Earth (ground) point is the engine hoisting ring just visible under the engine cover

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That seems very low speed, be great to have that clarified or confirmed.

I also know the hoisting ring is the earth BUT when using the Grenny as the starter vehicle do you connect negative to the earth point on the Grenny, and then negative cable to the other vehicle earth point as well?? So no negative battery terminals connected on either vehicle?

bigleonski said:

That seems very low speed, be great to have that clarified or confirmed.

I also know the hoisting ring is the earth BUT when using the Grenny as the starter vehicle do you connect negative to it, and then negative to the other vehicle earth as well??

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You jump start like you would a normal car. Both positive and negative go on the dead battery and the positive goes on thenpost and the negative on D ring. Of course in the proper sequence

ADVAW8S said:

You jump start like you would a normal car. Both positive and negative go on the dead battery and the positive goes on thenpost and the negative on D ring. Of course in the proper sequence

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Sorry but that’s incorrect- terminal on the donor and earth on the dead. Page 136 manual and what I’ve always done. In our case there is no access to rhe negative terminal on the grenny.

Interestingly Ineos says start with Red Donor rather than Red Dead.

bigleonski said:

Sorry but that’s incorrect- terminal on the donor and earth on the dead. Page 136 manual and what I’ve always done. In our case there is no access to rhe negative terminal on the grenny.

Interestingly Ineos says start with Red Donor rather than Red Dead.

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So right, I was thinking.

bigleonski said:

Sorry but that’s incorrect- terminal on the donor and earth on the dead. Page 136 manual and what I’ve always done. In our case there is no access to rhe negative terminal on the grenny.

Interestingly Ineos says start with Red Donor rather than Red Dead.

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This is exactly the right approach. I have had a small laminated map in every vehicle for over 30 years. I rarely bridge like this. If it's been 10x in that time, it's a lot. I only have the addition with the electrical consumers listed (heating, lights, ventilation, rear window heating). Switch off all consumers at the beginning. After both engines are running, switch on all consumers on the vehicle with the empty battery.

rovie said:

After both engines are running, switch on all consumers on the vehicle with the empty battery

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That's interesting.

What is this good for?

emax said:

That's interesting.

What is this good for?

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Just to avoid voltage peaks and thus protect the on-board electronics.

I read this with interest however jump starting equipment is a daily ritual in the fleets I work with and not every off road jumpstart scenario can be done by the book so this comment comes from experience so take it as you will.
Very often we have to go directly battery to battery because we cannot get the vehicle that is the donor or has jump start packs close enough to the engine due to terrain, battery location or how the machine is constructed and wired isolated from the chassis. If using this method we open the battery compartments and let them vent prior to connecting and disconnecting. If a battery is venting and swollen we generally do not attempt a jump start as this is a high risk of explosion from any method due to a high possibility there is an internal short circuit within the battery and you will definitely smell it. A battery tends to explode when there is an internal build up of gas more so then gas externally or explode in a poorly vented battery compartment with lose connections and most times, the battery explosions I have seen, occur when the starter is engaged with a high current draw and it can sometimes happen with the donor vehicle (I have only seen this with 2 or 4 battery 24v systems)
When the engine is started wait a minute or two then disconnect. The majority of ECU spiking occurs during disconnect when an EMF can be induced from the alligator clips being moved passed the battery post this is why something that has high electrical load like high beam (LEDs may not have the current draw), spot lights or electric heater blower fans on high is turned on and should direct the electrical spike away from the ECUs and through the path of least resistance. This is probably more of an issue in older cars as most newer 4x4s, trucks and machinery ECU's are pretty robust have internal protections and very rarely suffer issues (occasionally spikes do cause ECU faults).
And finally and most importantly at minimum wear eye protection because you want to see the burns not just feel them if it turns to shit and try to park the cars offset to each other not nose to nose to reduce the chance being crushed if there is a mistake that causes the cars to move.

NQ94 said:

I read this with interest however jump starting equipment is a daily ritual in the fleets I work with and not every off road jumpstart scenario can be done by the book so this comment comes from experience so take it as you will.
Very often we have to go directly battery to battery because we cannot get the vehicle that is the donor or has jump start packs close enough to the engine due to terrain, battery location or how the machine is constructed and wired isolated from the chassis. If using this method we open the battery compartments and let them vent prior to connecting and disconnecting. If a battery is venting and swollen we generally do not attempt a jump start as this is a high risk of explosion from any method due to a high possibility there is an internal short circuit within the battery and you will definitely smell it. A battery tends to explode when there is an internal build up of gas more so then gas externally or explode in a poorly vented battery compartment with lose connections and most times, the battery explosions I have seen, occur when the starter is engaged with a high current draw and it can sometimes happen with the donor vehicle (I have only seen this with 2 or 4 battery 24v systems)
When the engine is started wait a minute or two then disconnect. The majority of ECU spiking occurs during disconnect when an EMF can be induced from the alligator clips being moved passed the battery post this is why something that has high electrical load like high beam (LEDs may not have the current draw), spot lights or electric heater blower fans on high is turned on and should direct the electrical spike away from the ECUs and through the path of least resistance. This is probably more of an issue in older cars as most newer 4x4s, trucks and machinery ECU's are pretty robust have internal protections and very rarely suffer issues (occasionally spikes do cause ECU faults).
And finally and most importantly at minimum wear eye protection because you want to see the burns not just feel them if it turns to shit.

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Very good and detailed description. I received almost the same description from an AA employee during the Land Rover Days in Gaydon.

bigleonski said:

2. Jump starting using the Grenadier as the DONOR vehicle. Again it gives clear instructions about jump starting the grenny, but not when using it to jump another vehicle. I’ve jumped other vehicles a dozen times or more, but only had mine (pre Grenny) done a couple. Usually the donor vehicle negative terminal is used and then connected to an earth point on the receiving car. As the Grenny only has a positive point under the bonnet, where do you connect the negative end?? Earth point to earth point????

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The question remains. I'd be tempted to connect under the seats if the Grenadier is being used as the DONOR vehicle but that could prove a pain. Maybe it's time for @Stu_Barnes to ask Ineos?

I can't speak to what's proper, or to what INEOS recommends, but I have used my Granny as donor on a couple of jump-starts and I used the positive terminal under the hood for positive and chassis ground for negative.
Worked fine for me.
Started a 7.3l Ford diesel that was completely drained. The Ford had 2 batteries in parallel in a 12v system.
Started right up. Didn't even need to let it idle and charge first.

bigleonski said:

I had a bit of time doing nothing recently so decided to read the Owner’s Manual given Ineos took the time to make it look like a small encyclopedia (remember them!!).

Anyway there are two things that I have no answer for after reading that I thought I’d check with the “experts” here.

1. Changing from High unlocked to High Locked. At what speeds can this be done? It talks about low range speed but is completely silent re high range locking. On my Toyotas you could do this up to about 100km/hr and I regularly did so around 80-90. So does anyone know the actual answer?? Not your guess but the actual answer from Ineos?

2. Jump starting using the Grenadier as the DONOR vehicle. Again it gives clear instructions about jump starting the grenny, but not when using it to jump another vehicle. I’ve jumped other vehicles a dozen times or more, but only had mine (pre Grenny) done a couple. Usually the donor vehicle negative terminal is used and then connected to an earth point on the receiving car. As the Grenny only has a positive point under the bonnet, where do you connect the negative end?? Earth point to earth point????

Oh, and thirdly, don’t bother scanning the QR code on page 198 to get maintenance and technical information- the QR Code is invalid.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

On our South Africa expedition we were adviced to always lock the centre diff when not on tarmac roads, and that you can lock at any speed.