Diff lock issues

ECrider · Sep 28, 2023

Jean Mercier said:
Some two week ago in Romania, on a “stone track”, I got a total power loss after engaging the central diff lock and a rattling sound, quite scaring.
I stopped the car and did it all over again, and no problems anymore.

My guess: the “transfer case selector” was badly engaged (my fault?) and jumped out.

I have it on video:

The first 1min30 is driving in normal high range.

Then I stopped the car and engaged the center differential lock.

At 1min48 I got the problem. I stopped the car at once. I don’t remember the warnings I got on my screen.

I did truncate the video after 3min05 and the Suzuki Vitara: you see a lot of them in the mountains in Romania. My former car was a Suzuki!

Yes Jean I think the H/L lever must've disengaged. Hopefully you just hadn't "got it home" sufficiently rather than fault of the car.

I had something similar and same sounds twice when changing between H and L range on the third ever drive. Very difficult to select N or P when this was going on and I was thinking 'where's my left foot clutch gone'. Oh well!

Have just made sure I am absolutely positive the little bugger is home and dry before engaging forward or reverse.

Jean Mercier · Sep 28, 2023

rovie said:
Yes, it sounds like the transfer case selector has jumped out.

and @ECrider ... thanks, no doubt, for me.

I post this only as information for other members.

But if anybody calls me a dumbass for this, I "unfriend" him

... well I forgot I am not on FaceBook

NoAge Hunter · Nov 10, 2023

Stephen Whittaker said:
Just solved this diff issue. I spotted a small pin on the floor of the vehicle. I realised that this might be from the collar on the transfer box gear lever so stripped it down. With some fiddling I replaced the pin but had to tape it in with insulating tape as it just falls out again!

How did you replace it?? I tried it for more than an hoir and still can get it in

Dr. John · Dec 4, 2023

I collected my Trialmaster in August. I’ve taken the view that, because it was an early production unit, it was heavily discounted. Up ‘till now I have therefore been patient with problems. Last week the software update was installed, at last. At the same time the central diff controls were worked on (new cables) to enable me to engage “low”. With the engine running, the vehicle stationary, and the gear lever in “N” or Park, the selector lever simply won't budge. Bonkers. Is this normal? Must I turn the engine off and on for every shift into low and back out again? I cannot find any mention of operating the central diff selector in the manual.

Shopkeep · Dec 4, 2023

Dr. John said:
I collected my Trialmaster in August. I’ve taken the view that, because it was an early production unit, it was heavily discounted. Up ‘till now I have therefore been patient with problems. Last week the software update was installed, at last. At the same time the central diff controls were worked on (new cables) to enable me to engage “low”. With the engine running, the vehicle stationary, and the gear lever in “N” or Park, the selector lever simply won't budge. Bonkers. Is this normal? Must I turn the engine off and on for every shift into low and back out again? I cannot find any mention of operating the central diff selector in the manual.

My transfer case was initially reluctant to move from high to low or to lock, I found that it would only work when I had the hand brake on (engine on, in neutral, foot off brake pedal). Initially I was trying engine on, in neutral with foot brake on but no dice. I have not read of any kind of mechanical interlock between the hand brake and the transfer case stick but that's what worked for me.

Logsplitter · Dec 4, 2023

Dr. John said:
I collected my Trialmaster in August. I’ve taken the view that, because it was an early production unit, it was heavily discounted. Up ‘till now I have therefore been patient with problems. Last week the software update was installed, at last. At the same time the central diff controls were worked on (new cables) to enable me to engage “low”. With the engine running, the vehicle stationary, and the gear lever in “N” or Park, the selector lever simply won't budge. Bonkers. Is this normal? Must I turn the engine off and on for every shift into low and back out again? I cannot find any mention of operating the central diff selector in the manual.

Maybe you have the same problem I had where the Bowden cables that link the lever to the transfer box had seized. I was stuck in low range with centre diff locked.

Probably wrongly installed but don’t know for sure.

Cheshire cat · Dec 4, 2023

anand said:
Congrats on finding an issue that no one else has reported as of yet!

I noticed that pin coming adrift in my Grenadier. Fortunately noticed before it fell out. Another thing to put on my hit list before the software update

rovie · Dec 4, 2023

Dr. John said:
I collected my Trialmaster in August. I’ve taken the view that, because it was an early production unit, it was heavily discounted. Up ‘till now I have therefore been patient with problems. Last week the software update was installed, at last. At the same time the central diff controls were worked on (new cables) to enable me to engage “low”. With the engine running, the vehicle stationary, and the gear lever in “N” or Park, the selector lever simply won't budge. Bonkers. Is this normal? Must I turn the engine off and on for every shift into low and back out again? I cannot find any mention of operating the central diff selector in the manual.

Hi @Dr. John drive slowly to D or R and then shift the selector lever to N. Whilst the vehicle is rolling very slowly, shift to Low. In my case, the lever can then be shifted very easily without cracking.

ORSO · Dec 4, 2023

Cheshire cat said:
I noticed that pin coming adrift in my Grenadier. Fortunately noticed before it fell out. Another thing to put on my hit list before the software update

can you take some photos?

thanks

Cheshire cat · Dec 4, 2023

I can post in a couple of days. Currently away from home.

nasmo · Apr 17, 2024

Jean Mercier said:
and @ECrider ... thanks, no doubt, for me.

I post this only as information for other members.

But if anybody calls me a dumbass for this, I "unfriend" him ... well I forgot I am not on FaceBook

I've had this happent to me today. The first time ever to try out the diff locks. That rattling sound was so scary! my front diff lock was flashing red and the button on top could not be reset. I had to return the TC to high (normal) and call the dealership which taught me a technique to switch of the car for 10 minute, switch it on and try again.

Does that rattling sound mean that I've damaged the case in any way? Im just afraid that big damage was done.

Cheshire cat · Apr 18, 2024

ORSO said:
can you take some photos?

thanks

Here is a pic which, if you zoom in, you can see the end of the little pin which can come adrift.

pt888 · Apr 19, 2024

The pin issue has been known for quite a while. The factory solution is to replace the entire shift mechanism. But that doesn't really help as I had the shift mechanism replace and within a couple of hours it was out again. Search for transfer case shift pin etc and there are a couple of threads.
The work arounds to keep it in place include hot glue, silicon, cable wrap, zip ties, low grade loctite and different pins. I'll add silicon tape to the options.
Replacing the pin isn't complex.
Pull up the boot around the shifter and you will see two small black clips at the top of the shaft.
Carefully (they are plastic) prise these open just enough to get over the lugs and pull the mechanism up.
You will find that it is a spring loaded shaft.
By compressing the shaft you can reinsert the pin through the collar.
Fit your preferred secondary securing solution

I had to do this the other day but didn't take photos.

Paul

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