Solar Panel Installation and Setup

ECrider said:

Nice, does that then charge both the batteries, presume so?

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Logsplitter said:

I assume so but I’ve got so much kit in there that it’s a bit of a faff to get under and check both battery’s voltage.

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Jean Mercier said:

Install Chinese battery Bluetooth spies like I did

I continue to use them, although I know the Chinese are capturing my data.

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ECrider said:

I think the Chinese are holding @DCPU somewhere and have him on the rack demanding where he gets all his photos from.

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Logsplitter said:

Jump start terminal under the bonnet for now but will add some external plug’s somewhere View attachment 7828036

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bakepl said:

I ended up re-purposing the 25amp deutsch roof outlet... and running a new cable/pins to the ctek 250 (or any other controller)...

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bakepl said:

I ended up re-purposing the 25amp deutsch roof outlet... and running a new cable/pins to the ctek 250 (or any other controller)...

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• Looking above the roof liner (backwards right hand side) - can see the first from connector wiring coming in
• The B pillar - looking up from the bottom (removing the first dark plastic pannel)
• The solar D250SE fitting I did the black sheep connector plate using the money saved from buying D250SE on sale)
• The panel (Kings on sale 160W) - see how it goes

douggie said:

I looked at that too, but fitted a higher rated cable (10g) through the grommet of the rear connector - (front was gone - to a light bar) and the rear is on a 3 way with 2 other connectors and power. Ran the cable along the roof line inside the vehicle and down the B pillar of the drivers door - the roof hood xmas tree lining plug gave me grief - broke one of them, just hole in which it is fitted so tight its one way (the one above the drivers head) - have some spares on order now AUD 7.28 from the dealer)

Whole job took the weekend (including fitting the D250SE with the black sheep panel). Upset the grenadier pulling g files to hook the alerbnator wire back to the fuse panel - took a drive and some kms for the ABS/ESC to decide it was alright after I tested removing the fuse for that checking what was live on that segment with the key on. (Fuse FI35 Run Crank - Steering / ESC / 7.5 Brake Fluid Sensor ). I ended up tapping into the power mirror circuit with a micro fuse tap.

Attached photos:

• Looking above the roof liner (backwards right hand side) - can see the first from connector wiring coming in
• The B pillar - looking up from the bottom (removing the first dark plastic pannel)
• The solar D250SE fitting I did the black sheep connector plate using the money saved from buying D250SE on sale)
• The panel (Kings on sale 160W) - see how it goes

Cheers, Doug.

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Miltz said:

Looking for the easiest way to get the solar cable from the roof into the car, I was thinking that drilling a new hole in one of the plastic roof power outlet mounting panels and adding another grommet would be the most weather safe option, they are pretty tight for space with the factory plugs though and I have no idea which one would provide the best route to the battery system. Any tips would be much appreciated!

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TheDocAUS said:

There are pictures on the forum of someone gong down the B pillar behind the passenger's head. Still looking for the link.

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Pat-Ard said:

@Miltz Maybe this? https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...nture-communications.12410554/post-1333201317

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Deichrutscher said:

If you want to mount only the Solarpanel without roofrack, you can use the Rhinorack Backbone Kit:
You have only add a aluminum angle, so you can fit a Standardpanel with bracket.

- picture is a link to the Website from taubenreuther (offroad24.de):

:: Taubenreuther GmbH

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Miltz said:

Thanks Pat-Ard and TheDocAUS, this is really helpful!

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rt10516 said:

I like this "backbone" roof rack setup with the Rhino rack as pictured on their website. @Deichrutscher, thanks for posting this. Have you seen their roof rack setup by chance? Thanks

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Miltz said:

Hi douggie, I'm currently fitting solar to my vehicle though with a full length rack and the panel mounted at the front (so going down the A-pillar is an option though I'd prefer not to drill holes in the vehicle itself). When installing your set up did you find any easy ways that might get the cables from the front of the roof to under the rear seats? Like you I'll be fitting a light bar to the front right 25A outlet and as you mentioned the remaining 3 outlets are all ran off the 1 switch, all of which I'll end up using for left/right/rear work lights/external 12V socket since they are on the 1 switch. Looking for the easiest way to get the solar cable from the roof into the car, I was thinking that drilling a new hole in one of the plastic roof power outlet mounting panels and adding another grommet would be the most weather safe option, they are pretty tight for space with the factory plugs though and I have no idea which one would provide the best route to the battery system. Any tips would be much appreciated!

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Miltz said:

Hi douggie, I'm currently fitting solar to my vehicle though with a full length rack and the panel mounted at the front (so going down the A-pillar is an option though I'd prefer not to drill holes in the vehicle itself). When installing your set up did you find any easy ways that might get the cables from the front of the roof to under the rear seats? Like you I'll be fitting a light bar to the front right 25A outlet and as you mentioned the remaining 3 outlets are all ran off the 1 switch, all of which I'll end up using for left/right/rear work lights/external 12V socket since they are on the 1 switch. Looking for the easiest way to get the solar cable from the roof into the car, I was thinking that drilling a new hole in one of the plastic roof power outlet mounting panels and adding another grommet would be the most weather safe option, they are pretty tight for space with the factory plugs though and I have no idea which one would provide the best route to the battery system. Any tips would be much appreciated!

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Miltz said:

Hi douggie, I'm currently fitting solar to my vehicle though with a full length rack and the panel mounted at the front (so going down the A-pillar is an option though I'd prefer not to drill holes in the vehicle itself). When installing your set up did you find any easy ways that might get the cables from the front of the roof to under the rear seats? Like you I'll be fitting a light bar to the front right 25A outlet and as you mentioned the remaining 3 outlets are all ran off the 1 switch, all of which I'll end up using for left/right/rear work lights/external 12V socket since they are on the 1 switch. Looking for the easiest way to get the solar cable from the roof into the car, I was thinking that drilling a new hole in one of the plastic roof power outlet mounting panels and adding another grommet would be the most weather safe option, they are pretty tight for space with the factory plugs though and I have no idea which one would provide the best route to the battery system. Any tips would be much appreciated!

Click to expand...

Miltz said:

Hi douggie, I'm currently fitting solar to my vehicle though with a full length rack and the panel mounted at the front (so going down the A-pillar is an option though I'd prefer not to drill holes in the vehicle itself). When installing your set up did you find any easy ways that might get the cables from the front of the roof to under the rear seats?

Like you I'll be fitting a light bar to the front right 25A outlet and as you mentioned the remaining 3 outlets are all ran off the 1 switch, all of which I'll end up using for left/right/rear work lights/external 12V socket since they are on the 1 switch.

Looking for the easiest way to get the solar cable from the roof into the car, I was thinking that drilling a new hole in one of the plastic roof power outlet mounting panels and adding another grommet would be the most weather safe option, they are pretty tight for space with the factory plugs though and I have no idea which one would provide the best route to the battery system. Any tips would be much appreciated!

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douggie said:

The grommet on either power outlet makes it easy to get the cable inside. It’s a bit of an issue getting the cable through I used a cutoff end from a silicon sealer cartridge to help push through the rubber and provide a funnel to run the cable it ( the grommet has a cable tie behind that has to be cut)

Getting it inside the roof is easy. The roof liner is held on by a Christmas tree push in plug (Ineos hood lining plug) and the various handles and quick hook receivers found one of these hood lining plugs has to be broken to get it out…. B pillar from front cable point on the roof is the easiest run as it requires less access in the roof. Trick is to go behind the side airbag (and clip to existing cables on the roof where you can). The pillar also has an airbag to skirt and much more difficult to pull all the roof liner

I’ve talked with someone who used the c pillar but I could find my way into it (didn’t look hard enough).

I drilled no holes getting my cables into place. But broke one good lining plug (the one above the drivers head)

My b pillar run was front side of the seatbelt run between the panel fasteners so it can’t interfere with the seatbelt, rather than inside the chassis.

Hope this helps. Unfortunately I Didn't take photos of everything I was a bit hot and bothered and dripping with sweat as it was a hot humid qld day.

Regds Doug

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Miltz said:

Thanks for the info Doug!

I had a chat with my Ineos dealer and similar to what you have suggested they said getting the cable down into the car through an existing power outlet grommet is an option but depends on cable gauge, otherwise you can drill into the plastic infill panel the power outlets use and install another grommet, I'm not too adverse to drilling into this, I just don't want to be drilling into any metal.

They have one owner who has installed roof solar and they went into the rear power outlet grommet and down the C-pillar as this was a shorter run to the battery, no need to run the cable under the floor to get under the rear seat and no airbag to avoid. It will also mean not damaging any roof lining clips above the front seats if that becomes an issue though it was suggested if you unbolt the plastic roof infill panel this will give you access to the pillar without having to drop the roof lining.

I did forget to ask which side the primary battery is on though as this may decide which side of the car I run it down, it depends on where I will be able to fit the regulator, if the only place I can fit is in the middle next to the CTEK then it doesn't really matter which side I go down. Though it would be easier to go down the LHS (if the cable gauge fits into the exiting power outlet grommet) as the power outlet on the LHS is at the front of the infill panel while on the RHS it's at the rear and further from the C-pillar, I don't see it being any harder to run the cable but will add a bit to the length which is best avoided.


Cheers,

Paul

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