PBC/H and 442-600/40 as also used for the landcruiser and jeep wrangler (and our caravan)Is your setup the compact high pivot base and 500/40 carrier?
PBC/H and 442-600/40 as also used for the landcruiser and jeep wrangler (and our caravan)Is your setup the compact high pivot base and 500/40 carrier?
Looks great!This is what I'm planning in my vehicle...
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I got a couple of these quick-release front fork mounts and plan to put them on either side of the rear seat backs. My question is does anyone know anything about the internal structure of the seat backs? I am reluctant to just screw them into the hard plastic seat back and would much prefer if they could screw through to some internal structure. I'm not expecting to be carrying the bike over any rough terrain but even just regular driving could stress the screw and cause them to pull out or crack the plastic.
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What's this "mountain bike" you speak of?Looks great!
If you have any MTB's or gravel bikes I'd have a play with them too. They tend to be a bit higher although seat droppers can help.
While it does not answer your question, have you considered putting the bike in the other way around using the approach outlined at https://www.facebook.com/groups/754330368649291/permalink/1449876712427983/.I'm procrastinating drilling holes into my rear seat back. Has anyone dared to explore the inner world of the rear bench seat? Would it be reasonable to assume the indentations on the seat back indicate the location of an internal steel frame? I would much rather secure the front fork bracket into steel than just plastic.
I might try to pop out the circled plugs and see if that exposes anything useful.
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No. I don't want to have to lower the seat.While it does not answer your question, have you considered putting the bike in the other way around using the approach outlined at https://www.facebook.com/groups/754330368649291/permalink/1449876712427983/.
Fair enough. I'm using the system I linked to but I have a 2 seater and my mountain bike has a proper post so it works but I can see the problem with the 5 seaterNo. I don't want to have to lower the seat.
Wow, that's nice and snug against the back of the car.Been using the excellent single trail racks, made in australia.
VERY strong, and super quick loading, with no shortcuts in steel quality.
likely needs their v4 pivot (roll on loading). Swing arm available, i havent troed it.
can easily hold 4-6 emtb bikes though. Roadbikes like theyre not there…
make a timber plate which attaches to the seat back using the plastic push-fitting locations pictured, and then attach your fitting to that?I'm procrastinating drilling holes into my rear seat back. Has anyone dared to explore the inner world of the rear bench seat? Would it be reasonable to assume the indentations on the seat back indicate the location of an internal steel frame? I would much rather secure the front fork bracket into steel than just plastic.
I might try to pop out the circled plugs and see if that exposes anything useful.
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Dont mean to rain on your parade, but the shingleback is significantly less robust; its got bent rod vs cold formed steel tube baskets, bungy cord is all that restrains bikes in bumps/crashes, vs a self locking ratchet and 1800kg marine rope fixings, less rigid post, and no self tightening receiver tongue to prevent rattle. Theyre different classes, the single trail is the ducks nuts, the shingleback is a good product at a fair price.I just bought the Shingleback (similar to above) for MTB's... it's a beast.
On my Amarok currently but think it'll need the tow hitch receiver thingy extension to clear the spare of the IG
[here comes the 'but'...]***Dont mean to rain on your parade
I dont disagree, but you pays your money and takes your choice. The ST is a heavy monster with no hope of me even fitting it by myself. This kills it. Also $$$$$. Also i'm in WA - i.e. Tatooine.but the shingleback is significantly less robust;
Worked very well off-road recently. The general idea - of huge cantilevered loads, twisting within the tow receiver - is fraught, regardless of which rack you buy, so I only intend to use occasionally.bungy cord is all that restrains bikes in bumps/crashes,
It has an anti-rattle clamp.no self tightening receiver tongue to prevent rattle.
Yeah, I want to avoid this if possible. If there is a metal frame in there that I can screw the fork mount directly to it will be much neater. It's not going to be taking huge loads. I just don't want the screws to pull out of the plastic over time.make a timber plate which attaches to the seat back using the plastic push-fitting locations pictured, and then attach your fitting to that?
or maybe you could have a strap - like a softrack for surfboards - that goes round the entire rear seat back, and attach fittings to this?
That is how i put my gravel bike in. I just took the front wheel off and put the forks on a towel. A couple of tie down straps and it sat happily for hours.While it does not answer your question, have you considered putting the bike in the other way around using the approach outlined at https://www.facebook.com/groups/754330368649291/permalink/1449876712427983/.
Hi thereI need to make some better pictures and sort out the lightbar cable, but the ISI rack keeps the dust away and fits perfect.
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Is this a van swing or a different product? https://memo-europe.de/van-swingJust like to share a cool new device i found on my visit of a fair over the weekend. Swiss product. Here shown by www.heatsys.de
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