Black Sheep Inovations

MrMike said:

Standard 265 70 17s but 18 would make no difference

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Thanks That's interesting. In other words, the tire size does not change the height of the vehicle at all?

ED Mulrenin said:

Thanks That's interesting. In other words, the tire size does not change the height of the vehicle at all?

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They will make a small difference the 18s are very slightly talker than the 17s

ED Mulrenin said:

Thanks That's interesting. In other words, the tire size does not change the height of the vehicle at all?

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Between the 2 sizes there is 1 inch in hight, so 25mm not a big difference but it depends on what you are using the vehicle for. I personally have the 17s as they are readily available. You also do get more sidewall with the 17s and most prefer them for off roading.

MrMike said:

Between the 2 sizes there is 1 inch in hight, so 25mm not a big difference but it depends on what you are using the vehicle for. I personally have the 17s as they are readily available. You also do get more sidewall with the 17s and most prefer them for off roading.

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The fitted tire heights is actually only 1/2" or 11mm higher on the 18 rims vs the 17 rims. To determine the extra height the Grenadier sits off the ground you have to take 1/2 of those measurements, which shows the vehicle height difference is just 1/4" or 5.5mm higher on the 18 rims vs the 17 rims with the tires on them that Ineos has specified. (Note: I obtained those measurements by plugging them into a tire calculator). DaBull

DaBull said:

The fitted tire heights is actually only 1/2" or 11mm higher on the 18 rims vs the 17 rims. To determine the extra height the Grenadier sits off the ground you have to take 1/2 of those measurements, which shows the vehicle height difference is just 1/4" or 5.5mm higher on the 18 rims vs the 17 rims with the tires on them that Ineos has specified. (Note: I obtained those measurements by plugging them into a tire calculator). DaBull

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See my previous post with tyre comparison picture

MrMike said:

See my previous post with tyre comparison picture

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MrMike said:

See my previous post with tyre comparison picture

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Hi MrMike,

I went back and looked at your posted tire comparison picture, it is correct for comparing a 265 to a 225 aspect ratio tires, however the two different aspect ratio tires being offered on the Grenadier are 265 and 255.

I did look up the Bridgestone tires and the difference in height between the one for the 17” rim and 18” rim is 11 mm or .44” higher in diameter on the 18” rims.

Interestingly, in regard to the BF Goodrich KO2’s, the 18” ones are higher in diameter by 25.4 mm or 1” over the 17” tires.

You would need to take one/half of those tire differences to see what impact they would have on ground clearance.

DaBull

DaBull said:

Hi MrMike,

I went back and looked at your posted tire comparison picture, it is correct for comparing a 265 to a 225 aspect ratio tires, however the two different aspect ratio tires being offered on the Grenadier are 265 and 255.

I did look up the Bridgestone tires and the difference in height between the one for the 17” rim and 18” rim is 11 mm or .44” higher in diameter on the 18” rims.

Interestingly, in regard to the BF Goodrich KO2’s, the 18” ones are higher in diameter by 25.4 mm or 1” over the 17” tires.

You would need to take one/half of those tire differences to see what impact they would have on ground clearance.

DaBull

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My bad, I need to wear my glasses more often

Guys, can you please help me install the Autoterm heater with your kit? The kit came with no instructions and there are no tutorials whatsoever on any site. It seems that no matter how I try to fit the plate, it doesn't work without serious cutting and drilling. Too bad I waited two months for the package to arrive and already ordered the Autoterm heater the same day I placed your order, so I am unable to return it if the kit is not updated for the Grenadier production model.
Here are some pics:



Required cutting is going through at least two spot welds:

Glad to see you got it sorted, as per you’re post in thread 'Ad Blue bypass'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/ad-blue-bypass.12414288/post-1333283925

Mitchell300 said:

Glad to see you got it sorted, as per you’re post in thread 'Ad Blue bypass'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/ad-blue-bypass.12414288/post-1333283925
View attachment 7861629

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I had to completely redesign the moumt plate and cut the vehicle
Some clarifications/instructions would be of great help

I thought the Black sheep solution had the heater where the jack is. I'm curious to hear about your experiences with the heater and the installation location: An Autoterm heater is definitely on my list.

If you could perhaps post a few more pictures of the fuel connection, the fresh air intake and where you place the control panel, that would be great!

internal said:

I thought the Black sheep solution had the heater where the jack is. I'm curious to hear about your experiences with the heater and the installation location: An Autoterm heater is definitely on my list.

If you could perhaps post a few more pictures of the fuel connection, the fresh air intake and where you place the control panel, that would be great!

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It's impossible for the heater to fit there, Black Sheep uses that space for ducting and for relocation of the SCR brain. The heater goes in the same place as mine, but with the bracket reversed. I decided to go my way with the installation. There is no fresh air intake(cabin side) in my setup, only combustion intake and exhaust goes outside.
The control can be mounted pretty anywhere.
I did not tap into the fuel tank, I will use a 4L poly bladder in the empty space already there, see photo.
When I'll install the brown Davis aux tank, I shall tap that one.

Tazzieman said:

Galling and galvanic corrosion is real.
I've never seen a vehicle with SS steps or sliders installed.

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Galling mainly occurs with dissimilar metals for example aluminium and stainless steels but not all metals hardened steel bolts are less likely to gall with aluminium than 303 stainless steel. It makes a good read
Be careful over tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminium or vice versa , the two dissimilar metals don't like each other and "galling" can occur. Search anything similar to "galling between metals or stainless steel and aluminium" and you will find plenty of info. Over tightening fasteners with soft materials like Aluminium has always been problematical the risk of stripping threads and loosening joints can be reduced with Loctite type products which create a protective coating between materials and a bond between the two materials and reduce the torque setting required due to adhesion yet remain strong and remain removable. Loctite 243 is acceptable between these two materials for general purpose use and is not expensive. But please be aware not just any thread locker or bonding product may be suitable for this purpose a little research is required first. For critical components e.g. aero space, potable water, chemical resistant uses there are some much more expensive products out there. Loctite have a good website and a customer services advice service. Loctite 243 applied correctly to coat all threads is sufficient and affordable.

Galvanisation between two dissimilar metals in this case Aluminium and steel, see Marsh Fasteners web site https://www.marshfasteners.com/can-stainless-steel-and-aluminum-be-used-together/
Corrosion develops when two dissimilar materials are combined in a corrosive electrolyte. This can occur when certain materials (such as aluminium) are in contact with stainless steel.
The most common solution to prevent galvanic corrosion is to select metals that are close together in the galvanic series. Separating the metals that are incompatible reduces the risk of these cells deteriorating. According to the levels of galvanic corrosion, stainless steel that comes into contact with materials such as copper is less likely to be a risk than when it is in contact with aluminium.

The twin joys of disassembling an old Land Rover and then rebuilding with more appropriate fasteners!
Not sure whether they still sell those zinc shims that separate the bulkheads from the Birmabright panels.

alexandruast said:

I had to completely redesign the moumt plate and cut the vehicle
Some clarifications/instructions would be of great help

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Hi, I came across the following posted by @DaBull. Link below.
It’s the Ineos Grenadier Body Builders Guide. The page I’ve attached refers to heater installs, thought it might be of some use to you.
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/show-us-your-mods.12413129/post-1333288917