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Logsplitter

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7 GBP / piece is insane.
Agreed it’s pricey. Probably cheaper around or a coach bolt with head ground down on two parallel sides would do the trick also.
 
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Christoph

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Agreed it’s pricey. Probably cheaper around or a coach bolt with head ground down on two parallel sides would do the trick also.
Agree - I ordered 4 pieces with a length of 15mm (which should be more than sufficient if not even better for this purpose) for 11,97 EUR at Amazon:

(Fixed typo)
 

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An optimistic 6+ months for NA deliveries to start, and I am paying close attention to this thread. I will install a fridge and not sure how to plan the remaining cargo space. I am frightfully aware of the weigh penalties these wooden system bring, so hopefully a good solution floats above the others.
 

pt888

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Fantastic Christoph, thanks so much for the detailed explanation and photos. I want to do something similar and this really helps.
 

MileHigh

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An optimistic 6+ months for NA deliveries to start, and I am paying close attention to this thread. I will install a fridge and not sure how to plan the remaining cargo space. I am frightfully aware of the weigh penalties these wooden system bring, so hopefully a good solution floats above the others.
What kind of wood is needed or the best? 3/8 inch, 1/2 inch? 1/4, but use some aluminum brackets/cross members?
 

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An optimistic 6+ months for NA deliveries to start, and I am paying close attention to this thread. I will install a fridge and not sure how to plan the remaining cargo space. I am frightfully aware of the weigh penalties these wooden system bring, so hopefully a good solution floats above the others.
There are very light panels for the interieur available, which are used in the flight industry. Various colours and surfaces...but still being strong.

Like Con-Pearl. Together with appropriate profiles you can easil, get any kind of case. There was once a company called 4x4innenausbau who offered ready Excel sheets for standard cases and the usual cars which come together as complete furniture. You just needed to measure and put the numbers in. You received from Excel a complete order list and construction manual.

Or you ask Lynn, she was in the compound business before...

AWo
 

DaBull

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There are very light panels for the interieur available, which are used in the flight industry. Various colours and surfaces...but still being strong.

Like Con-Pearl. Together with appropriate profiles you can easil, get any kind of case. There was once a company called 4x4innenausbau who offered ready Excel sheets for standard cases and the usual cars which come together as complete furniture. You just needed to measure and put the numbers in. You received from Excel a complete order list and construction manual.

Or you ask Lynn, she was in the compound business before...

AWo
Yes, composites might be great for a rear drawer system for weight however may be more fussy to fab with. I am thinking of using 3/8" or 1/2" birch plywood vs regular plywood for strength. My thoughts on a rear drawer and tray system is to break it up into two separate drawer/tray boxes, side by side. It would be much lighter to take them in and out and also gives you the option of just putting one set in and having a refrigerator next to it or installing both sets to have a full width set up. Much more flexibility. This is the way I am going to go along with engineering a top on top of each set that will be on commercial grade Accuride guide/slides to allow the top to slide back and forth. I have not worked out all the details yet and when I do will post photos and details. DaBull.
 

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Yes, composites might be great for a rear drawer system for weight however may be more fussy to fab with. I am thinking of using 3/8" or 1/2" birch plywood vs regular plywood for strength. My thoughts on a rear drawer and tray system is to break it up into two separate drawer/tray boxes, side by side. It would be much lighter to take them in and out and also gives you the option of just putting one set in and having a refrigerator next to it or installing both sets to have a full width set up. Much more flexibility. This is the way I am going to go along with engineering a top on top of each set that will be on commercial grade Accuride guide/slides to allow the top to slide back and forth. I have not worked out all the details yet and when I do will post photos and details. DaBull.
I have a lot of time. In about a year I could TIG a frame and mount to the cargo aircraft rails. Easy to attach the fridge slide and I can hopefully plan out the rest of the storage.
 

emax

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wood/foam/wood sandwiches are very lightweight and strong.

But apart from the higher cost, they also have some disadvantages.

The first is the connection of the panels. While metal panels can be welded, screwed or riveted, and wood can simply be glued, doweled, nailed or screwed, this is a bit more challenging with sandwich panels.

The second issue is force application. Such a panel is strong as a planar member and can support a lot of load. But point loads can be critical. The same is true for any connections that need to be made, whether between multiple panels or even between fittings.

In short, workmanship is more demanding and less forgiving. Specialty adhesives can help, but they are expensive and often have a limited working time with 2K adhesives. There can be special fittings that solve such problems, but the prices are usually beyond.

Wood is a patient, (comparatively) inexpensive and easy to work with material. It takes some effort to make it resistant to water, grease and sweat. But it is (at least for me) a pleasure to work with. And wherever you need a handle or other piece of wood, you just take a screw and you're done.

The trick is in the sizing and construction. Most vertical structures are fine with 9 mm thickness. Horizontal structures are often strong enough at 12 mm, and in drawers even 9 mm or 5 mm can be enough. 19 mm is almost never necessary.

With additional design measures, even a horizontal bed can be built with 12 mm. It depends very much on the imagination, skill and patience of the builder.

The nice thing with wood is that you can easily scale it down to almost any requirements and space restrictions.

Imagine the beam below at a height of 50 mm. It takes a fretsaw or a handrouter - and time. The strength is just incredible.

0-8-2-1600x847.jpeg


I once built an RC controlled airplane from wood. It had a wing span of 139 cm, had a battery, two servos, an RC-receiver with antenna and all the linkages for the rudder and ailerons. It weighed 99 grams.

Here is a nice website which visualizes the principles of wooden lightweight constructions (although this is for much larger loads).



typo
 
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DaBull

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OK, here we go:

The reason for the shorter bottom board (84 cm instead of 90 cm top board) is this form of the trunk floor:

View attachment 7817273

The rear of the box, thus, looks like this:

View attachment 7817278

View attachment 7817279

View attachment 7817280

And regarding securing the box to the floor, as I said above, I have done nothing yet, but was thinking that the air rails could be leveraged for this purpose as the box fits perfectly between them:

View attachment 7817281View attachment 7817282
Hi Christoph, I like your tray set up instead of drawers. Easy to simply pull out and stack and put back in.
In looking at your measurements, it appears that the depth of the two trays, 60cm + 30cm = 90cm, exceeds the depth of the bottom board, that you showed as being 82cm or perhaps could be 84cm. Is the bottom board deeper than 82-84cm and if so, what is that measurement?

I am thinking of making something similar to yours, however going full width past the airline rails up to, however not over, the small floor mat lip to the right and left of the airline rails. If you have the time, could you take the exact measurements for A, B & C as shown on the attached photo. Thanks in Advance. DaBull
 

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Christoph

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Hi DaBull,

In looking at your measurements, it appears that the depth of the two trays, 60cm + 30cm = 90cm, exceeds the depth of the bottom board,

Yes.

that you showed as being 82cm or perhaps could be 84cm. Is the bottom board deeper than 82-84cm and if so, what is that measurement?

It is not, the boxes go beyond the bottom board.

I am thinking of making something similar to yours, however going full width past the airline rails up to, however not over, the small floor mat lip to the right and left of the airline rails. If you have the time, could you take the exact measurements for A, B & C as shown on the attached photo. Thanks in Advance. DaBull

Sure, here you go:

A: 102.0 cm (40.16 inches)
B: 106.8 cm (42.05 inches)
C: 84.2 cm (33.15 inches)
 
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Christoph

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Hi DaBull,



Yes.



It is not, the boxes go beyond the bottom board.



Sure, here you go:

A: 102.0 cm (40.16 inches)
B: 106.8 cm (42.05 inches)
C: 84.2 cm (33.15 inches)
Just realized I should add that I have a Stationwagon Trialmaster spec - the utility version has different measures due to the rear seats being installed differently.
 

DaBull

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Just realized I should add that I have a Stationwagon Trialmaster spec - the utility version has different measures due to the rear seats being installed differently.
Hi Christoph, Thanks for the great information. Much appreciate. DaBull
 

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Does anyone know how the upper lashing eyes in the load compartment are attached and how much weight they can support? If you unscrew them, you can see a hollow space behind the metal eyelet that holds them. Could the mounting for a false floor be anchored here?

I have the same question about the linkage that moves the partition forward 10 cm in the 5-seater Utility Wagon. Could this serve as an anchorage for a small winch in the load compartment? Pulling force approx. 100 - 150 kg.

Weren't there pictures of the raw bodywork somewhere?

Many thanks for any help or ideas on these subjects.

--

Weiß jemand, wie die oberen Verzurrösen im Laderaum angebracht sind und wieviel Gewicht sie tragen können? Wenn man sie abschraubt, ist hinter der sie haltenden Metallöse ein Hohlraum zu sehen. Evtl. könnte man hier die Halterung für einen Zwischenboden verankern?

Die gleiche Frage hätte ich zu dem Gestänge, das die Trennwand im 5-Sitzer Utility Wagon 10 cm nach vorne verlagert. Könnte das als Verankerung für einer kleine Seilwinde im Laderaum dienen? Zugkraft ca. 100 – 150 kg.

Gab es nicht mal irgendwo Bilder von der rohen Karosserie?

Vielen Dank für jede Hilfe oder Idee zu diesen Themen.
 

Andrew Kilby

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Some great stuff here. Don't hesitate to build with plywood. I copied an aluminium draw set in ply and it was lighter and strong enough to do some very serious off-roading over more than 10 years. Screw, glue and rebate is extremely strong. 9mm and 12mm is all that is needed.
 
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