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Towing Electrics & Towing Socket Wiring

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OK here is there answer I took it apart and guess what pins 10 , 11 ,12 are blanked off.
IMG_7936.jpg
 

ADVAW8S

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I wonder if the wiring was done to address NA spec where we run 7 pin. Disclaimer: I am not a electrician tossing out ideas and nonsense is my speciality.
 

PBD

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yes it is and I contacted customer care to make sure it was a full 13 pin eu plug with live feeds for caravan fridge and batteries before -paying the balance of my deposit (£2050) and being locked into the build specs. I was clearly misled by Ineos!
Been to JT Hughes at Telford today. Spoke at length with the owner John and the team there. They believed it was a full 13 pin set up, until I showed them mine! I also demonstrated the failure of the overhead power switches to activate live feeds when the ignition was off. They were not amused! It got worse when they checked all the vehicles they had there and they were exactly the same as mine! They have put urgent requests in to Ineos to clear this up, but agreed with me this was not what we all paid for!
They also suggested I take it up With Tom Johnson direct at Ineos (Tom.johnson@ineos.com) which I will do directly.
 

Tom D

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I think a grovelling apology will be incoming as I don’t think this will be an easy fix. The last part of the towing loom will be a plug and play unit, they usually are. I can’t see that they would run 13 wires off the main loom only to put 10 wires in the plug in towing extension. I’d guess that there will be no way to rectify this…
 

bakepl

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On an aside, typically power from the vehicle to trailer batteries/fridge are wired separately from the trailer plug (with larger cables) due to voltage drop in the smaller cables over the distance required - hence the usefulness of the NATO power socket (if it was powered) 😶 For my application I'll be using the 3 'spare' pins in the trailer plug for the rear caravan camera... would have been handy for the pins to be there but that's ok, will sort in due course. :)
 

AnD3rew

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I think a grovelling apology will be incoming as I don’t think this will be an easy fix. The last part of the towing loom will be a plug and play unit, they usually are. I can’t see that they would run 13 wires off the main loom only to put 10 wires in the plug in towing extension. I’d guess that there will be no way to rectify this…
See the posts from Rovie and Jean in the what did I do today thread where they dismantled the trim in the rear. I think adding power to those pins would actually be pretty simple. Not saying it shouldn’t have been done but I think it’s rectifiable. For Australia where we usually use 7 pin we generally don’t take power from that plug but from an anderson plug on the rear. For us we just need to figure out the power to the NATO plug.
 

rovie

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See the posts from Rovie and Jean in the what did I do today thread where they dismantled the trim in the rear. I think adding power to those pins would actually be pretty simple. Not saying it shouldn’t have been done but I think it’s rectifiable. For Australia where we usually use 7 pin we generally don’t take power from that plug but from an anderson plug on the rear. For us we just need to figure out the power to the NATO plug.
The large relais for the Nato plug (see my photo) is located under the rear right trim. Because the software has not yet been adapted, it only switches on vehicles with a front winch. The NATO plug is supplied with power from there. When I'm back at the vehicle, I might be able to take a few more pictures.
 

AnD3rew

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The large relais for the Nato plug (see my photo) is located under the rear right trim. Because the software has not yet been adapted, it only switches on vehicles with a front winch. The NATO plug is supplied with power from there. When I'm back at the vehicle, I might be able to take a few more pictures.
Maybe just bypass the relay and make it live?
 

rovie

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Maybe just bypass the relay and make it live?
Theoretically feasible. Practically, I don't want to do it for the time being. INEOS is working on the update. I will now wait until late summer and hope that it will have worked by then. Including all the other bugfixes.
 

AnD3rew

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Theoretically feasible. Practically, I don't want to do it for the time being. INEOS is working on the update. I will now wait until late summer and hope that it will have worked by then. Including all the other bugfixes.
I would like it switchable but don’t want any other restrictions I want to use it to power my camper trailer on the road and my compressor beside the track and my camp at night. A switch is nice to have but not critical, other conditions for use are undesirable. If the next software update fixes then good. If not then 100% live is fine. All my previous vehicles with rear Anderson plug have been 100% live and less protected than a NATO plug with no issues
 

bakepl

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I would like it switchable but don’t want any other restrictions I want to use it to power my camper trailer on the road and my compressor beside the track and my camp at night. A switch is nice to have but not critical, other conditions for use are undesirable. If the next software update fixes then good. If not then 100% live is fine. All my previous vehicles with rear Anderson plug have been 100% live and less protected than a NATO plug with no issues
100% but rather than permanent live I normally install a voltage sensitive relay of some sort to handle the amps required and not flatten the start battery, so when the car starts up power goes to rear anderson, keeps power until volts go down. Just need to sort what amps and volt cut off you need.

https://www.outbackequipment.com.au...AyeFx17VBhqYtiJ1wLKbzX_a0sIbwrSEaAh1XEALw_wcB
 

DCPU

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yes it is and I contacted customer care to make sure it was a full 13 pin eu plug with live feeds for caravan fridge and batteries before -paying the balance of my deposit (£2050) and being locked into the build specs. I was clearly misled by Ineos!
Don't suppose they wrote you the reply you can post up?

Been to JT Hughes at Telford today. Spoke at length with the owner John and the team there. They believed it was a full 13 pin set up, until I showed them mine! I also demonstrated the failure of the overhead power switches to activate live feeds when the ignition was off. They were not amused! It got worse when they checked all the vehicles they had there and they were exactly the same as mine! They have put urgent requests in to Ineos to clear this up, but agreed with me this was not what we all paid for!
Got to feel for agents, I wonder if some of them are wondering what they have got into, especially as Ineos seem to want to hide from any direct contact with their customers.

They also suggested I take it up With Tom Johnson direct at Ineos (Tom.johnson@ineos.com) which I will do directly.
I'm sure you'll keep us posted but who is he? 👍
 

Tom D

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I don’t actually need the full 13 pin setup, however i can understand the frustration of those who were expecting it!
I like a permanent live for charging the battery on my tipping trailer, but it draws so much current that I have always wired it separately with heavy wires. On the Gren I can use the NATO plug.

I can’t really understand why they’d advertise 13 and then supply 10…
 
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Got to feel for agents, I wonder if some of them are wondering what they have got into, especially as Ineos seem to want to hide from any direct contact with their customers.
Yes this was always my fear, and will be worse with the disconnect here in Oz. I hope they're flying out a software guy to train up the dealers here.
 

DCPU

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100% but rather than permanent live I normally install a voltage sensitive relay of some sort to handle the amps required and not flatten the start battery, so when the car starts up power goes to rear anderson, keeps power until volts go down. Just need to sort what amps and volt cut off you need.
I think we have one of those off the front end under the bonnet:
WP_20230512_082.jpg
 

DCPU

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Maybe just bypass the relay and make it live?
The irony of installing a single pole Anderson connector, accessible via the wheel arch removable panel to isolate/switch the NATO socket...
 

DCPU

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I don’t actually need the full 13 pin setup, however i can understand the frustration of those who were expecting it!
I like a permanent live for charging the battery on my tipping trailer, but it draws so much current that I have always wired it separately with heavy wires. On the Gren I can use the NATO plug.

I can’t really understand why they’d advertise 13 and then supply 10…
Pin 9 is permanently live?
 
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