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Americas Winch Install – OEM Red Winch

Thank you. Do you have a contact there I should call?
Ask for John Moore at Red Noland. He is the service manager. The winch and controller were ordered as a replacement for my original OEM winch that would only power in and not power out. After starting the parts swap they discovered that my winch was actually fine and had been wired incorrectly from the factory. So then they were left with the replacement winch and solenoid in their inventory.
 
I have retro-fitted an OEM Red Winch. It was reasonably straightforward. I have documented the process and put details here in the resources section.
My vehicle is the Australian version with the steel bumper.
Items required:
  1. Winch (& winch remote control)
  2. Front Bumper centre section - crossmember
  3. Front Bumper centre section - bumper (it's slightly different to the non-winch version, the lugs holding the plastic grill in place have been removed).
  4. Front Bumper centre section - plastic grill
  5. Flip up number plate bracket
  6. Winch control box
  7. Winch wiring harness
    1. Winch to Control Box (3 wires)
    2. Earth or negative wire
    3. Control box to relay
  8. Some sort of bracket to secure the winch control box in the void immediately behind the RH headlight (could be done with cable ties if you are not too fussy).
"Winch ready" means that the switches are fitted to the overhead panel and they are wired to a relay immediately behind the RH Front Headlight. There is no further preparation, "winch ready" does not mean there is cabling to the area where the winch would be mounted and nor is there provision for mounting the winch.
You will need to exchange the entire centre section of the front bumper.
You will still need to install the cables from the winch to the winch control box and then on to the relay.
You will need to mount the winch control box.
The picture below shows most of what you need except the centre section of the bumper and the bracket for the winch control box. The existing non-winch steel bumper could be modified by grinding off the lugs that hold the 'non-winch" plastic grill trim in place. The winch control box bracket is quiet elaborate, you could try and fabricate your own bracket but the space to mount it is tight with lots of odd angles and protrusions.
20250208_112619.jpg
 
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This is an old thread but just to add. It is easy to tell if you are winch ready. There will be a red connection point on passenger side about middle right. Look at it and it will say Red Winch on it. That is where they connect the Winch. If you don’t do that the main difference is you would bypass all that must be running, must be not be in park stuff.

If you want factory look the GP factor winch might be a better option. Install looks very doable but since Owlvans is right in my area I thought this is a chance to build that relationship.

The advantage of the GP Factor is double the winch line.

 
This is an old thread but just to add. It is easy to tell if you are winch ready. There will be a red connection point on passenger side about middle right. Look at it and it will say Red Winch on it. That is where they connect the Winch. If you don’t do that the main difference is you would bypass all that must be running, must be not be in park stuff.

If you want factory look the GP factor winch might be a better option. Install looks very doable but since Owlvans is right in my area I thought this is a chance to build that relationship.

The advantage of the GP Factor is double the winch line.

Attached picture shows the Red Winch relay which can be accessed by removing the RH headlight. The red arrow indicates the +ve terminal. The relay is the black 'box' beneath the brass terminal, partially obscured by the bracket that holds it and the 'toot' horn.
 

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Attached picture shows the Red Winch relay which can be accessed by removing the RH headlight. The red arrow indicates the +ve terminal. The relay is the black 'box' beneath the brass terminal, partially obscured by the bracket that holds it and the 'toot' horn.
I'm a little confused. Is there a difference here between winch ready and just having the high load auxiliary panel? The aux panel panel gives you a relay that appears to be the same as what you have and is what I use with my GP Factor winch.
 
I think that the high load gives you winch ready and when I get my truck tomorrow I will send a photo of the relay that shows you are winch ready. You don’t need to disassemble anything. It is right on top. Mid engine bay on passenger side in the US.

In my understanding anyone can run power to the winch from the battery, this just allows you to connect in the engine bay and subjects you to all of the “protections” that Ineos has decided you need. Engine on, gear selector not in park, that type of thing. Saves a lot of hassle to just hook up to relay in engine bay rather than having to run to battery and have some sort of shutoff and circuit breaker.
 
I think that the high load gives you winch ready and when I get my truck tomorrow I will send a photo of the relay that shows you are winch ready. You don’t need to disassemble anything. It is right on top. Mid engine bay on passenger side in the US.

In my understanding anyone can run power to the winch from the battery, this just allows you to connect in the engine bay and subjects you to all of the “protections” that Ineos has decided you need. Engine on, gear selector not in park, that type of thing. Saves a lot of hassle to just hook up to relay in engine bay rather than having to run to battery and have some sort of shutoff and circuit breaker.

All the vehicles have the power outlet in the engine bay for a winch install.

Having the High amp switch panel gives you a relay (solenoid) behind the passenger (in a LHD) headlamp that will follow Ineos' intended guidelines for winching (500A circuit on, proper gearshift positioning, etc)
 
I personally walked around the dealership with the service manager and most of them did not have the winch ready. Only the high loads did. He was the one who pointed it out.
 
I personally walked around the dealership with the service manager and most of them did not have the winch ready. Only the high loads did. He was the one who pointed it out.
The source for power to the "high load winch ready" solenoid is the same (large gauge wire from the battery area to the jump start point) on those with or without the high amp switch panel
 
That makes sense. So then after market winch can easily be installed you just would not get the “safety feature” of the factory prep. Thanks for the clarification. I debated and just decided to get the prep. Having the switch in the roof is part of what drew me to the vehicle, as a pilot. So unlike the Defender where I ran a switch pro, I am going to see if I can stay with the factory switches here.
 
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