What are the options for the Nato plug in the back?

[INEOS OG]

Wanted to bump this and see if there's been any new ideas or products.

Like this...

INEOS Grenadier NATO Plug - Agile Offroad

Nato Plug with Screw ring Black, 55mm, 2 Cable. Add custom Grenadier accessories using the OEM electrical outlet at the rear bumper area of your vehicle.

agileoffroad.com

 

[Baron von Teuchter]

I seem to recall the kit that mounts an arb compressor in the spare wheel well runs off a NATO plug - a neat solution.

 

[Andrew Kilby]

I see it's over a year since I posted in this thread. Time flies.

If it runs on 12v DC at less than 350A continuous you can power it from the NATO Socket. A reminder that the switch is labelled as 500A but the fuse is 350A.
Just remember that Ineos does not endorse use of the NATO socket for anything other than the removable rear winch so you're on your own if it goes up in smoke.

Aside from sending power to a trailer or caravan:
Portable or briefcase compressor
Camp lights
Charger for devices or power tools (with or without a small inverter)
Drone charger, maybe?
12v rattle gun
.....

You just need to add a NATO plug and an adaptor to whatever format you will connect through. I'm using an SB50 Anderson (posted above) because that's what my camper and portable compressor have.
While I'm rehashing; you also need to reconfigure the Albright solenoid so it stays closed when you want to use the NATO socket. Mine is triggered by an ignition feed so it's live when the key is turned ON. I run the engine when I use the compressor and the solenoid opens when the ignition is off so it doesn't drain my battery when I am connected to my camper (DC-DC charger) without the engine running.

I have a slight variation on this. When engine is running the NATO plug is powered. I will also install a bypass switch so that for low current draws the NATO can be used. Bypassing the 80 klm speed cut out is essential.

 

[ADVAW8S]

I seem to recall the kit that mounts an arb compressor in the spare wheel well runs off a NATO plug - a neat solution.

Black sheep created this setup

 

[Tenac]

I was hoping to use it to power/charge an off road trailer.... Is that still actually possible? I was looking at a 48v trailer. Might have to do some research before pulling the trigger.

 

[bemax]

I was hoping to use it to power/charge an off road trailer.... Is that still actually possible? I was looking at a 48v trailer. Might have to do some research before pulling the trigger.

I am not 100 % sure but I read somewhere that the connection to the NATO socket is cut at a certain speed. It was exactly your idea that was discussed here somewhere more than a year ago. Maybe you can find the thread via the search. (or someone else remembers better than me)

 

[holdmybeer]

I seem to recall the kit that mounts an arb compressor in the spare wheel well runs off a NATO plug - a neat solution.

Yeah, I have that setup. It's novel, that's for sure! Plenty of current available. Pics here on the forum.

 

[Clark Kent]

I was hoping to use it to power/charge an off road trailer.... Is that still actually possible? I was looking at a 48v trailer. Might have to do some research before pulling the trigger.

Yes it's possible @Tenac. If you search for any of my posts on this including earlier in this thread, you'll see I have adapted the NATO socket to a SB50 Anderson which connects to a DC-DC charger in my camper.

By default the NATO socket either does not work unless you have the front winch option, possibly only an MY23 ROW quirk; or it does work but only if certain operating conditions are met including speed below xx mph. That makes sense when you recall that IA supplied the NATO socket for use with the removable rear winch which is not typically used while blasting down the freeway.

If you want to make the NATO socket available at other times for other purposes (look away now Ineos), you will need to take over control of the circuit that supplies the trigger coil on the Albright Solenoid located under the right side trim panel in the rear.
Options:
1. If you want the NATO socket live when the key is on/engine running you need to run an ignition feed to the pull-in side of the solenoid coil.
2. If you want the NATO socket live anytime via an ON/OFF switch you need to run a +12V feed to the same spot. The solenoid uses power to operate and this will add to the battery drain if you leave it turned ON without the engine running even if there is nothing plugged into the NATO socket.

If you do this I also recommend derating the NATO supply circuit fuse from 350A to something closer to your expected maximum current draw. I'm using a 60A fuse I robbed from the 7-way fuse holder (ROW vehicles) because I also use the NATO socket for my portable compressor.
No point sacrificing your equipment to protect a fuse that's bigger than you need

I have no experience with 48v trailers but the above will get you 25% closer


Factory trigger wire disconnected from the Albright Solenoid (green wire).

Ignition feed connected to the solenoid coil (yellow arrow).

Derated fuse installed in the 5-way Littelfuse holder. 350A > 60A.

 

[Andrew Kilby]

Yes it's possible @Tenac. If you search for any of my posts on this including earlier in this thread, you'll see I have adapted the NATO socket to a SB50 Anderson which connects to a DC-DC charger in my camper.

By default the NATO socket either does not work unless you have the front winch option, possibly only an MY23 ROW quirk; or it does work but only if certain operating conditions are met including speed below xx mph. That makes sense when you recall that IA supplied the NATO socket for use with the removable rear winch which is not typically used while blasting down the freeway.

If you want to make the NATO socket available at other times for other purposes (look away now Ineos), you will need to take over control of the circuit that supplies the trigger coil on the Albright Solenoid located under the right side trim panel in the rear.
Options:
1. If you want the NATO socket live when the key is on/engine running you need to run an ignition feed to the pull-in side of the solenoid coil.
2. If you want the NATO socket live anytime via an ON/OFF switch you need to run a +12V feed to the same spot. The solenoid uses power to operate and this will add to the battery drain if you leave it turned ON without the engine running even if there is nothing plugged into the NATO socket.

If you do this I also recommend derating the NATO supply circuit fuse from 350A to something closer to your expected maximum current draw. I'm using a 60A fuse I robbed from the 7-way fuse holder (ROW vehicles) because I also use the NATO socket for my portable compressor.
No point sacrificing your equipment to protect a fuse that's bigger than you need

I have no experience with 48v trailers but the above will get you 25% closer


Factory trigger wire disconnected from the Albright Solenoid (green wire).
View attachment 7886585

Ignition feed connected to the solenoid coil (yellow arrow).
View attachment 7886586

Derated fuse installed in the 5-way Littelfuse holder. 350A > 60A.
View attachment 7886587

Well written and exactly the right approach if you want to use the NATO plug for other than a winch. IO really dont understand why Ineos limit the speed to 80 when using the NATO. It can't be winching, even with wheel slip that is record smashing winch speed. in any case combining option 1 and 2 such that you need ignition on and a switch closed to power NATO gives you the ultimate control and if you leave the factory fuse in place you can still winch. lower current devices can be protected just after the NATO Plug.

 

[Clark Kent]

Well written and exactly the right approach if you want to use the NATO plug for other than a winch. IO really dont understand why Ineos limit the speed to 80 when using the NATO. It can't be winching, even with wheel slip that is record smashing winch speed. in any case combining option 1 and 2 such that you need ignition on and a switch closed to power NATO gives you the ultimate control and if you leave the factory fuse in place you can still winch. lower current devices can be protected just after the NATO Plug.

I'll call that option 3 and it's a good one.
By derating the circuit at the source I'm making an assumption that the NATO socket is being repurposed but if it still needs to pull duty for a rear winch then fuse it after the plug as you say. For a trailer the fuse should be close to the coupling. An inline chassis mount mega fuse screwed to the drawbar would do the job.

 

[carpetman]

I use it as an input for solar panels. I have a wire from the external side of the relay to a Victron smart solar. The solar panels (I leave them on the ground when camping) connect to the Nato socket thru a series of Andersen (stepping down the wire gauge) to the standard solar panel connector. I use this charge a LiFePO4 battery. It works great as a way of connecting solar. I can still use it as NATO socket when the solar is not connected, but still haven't found a use case for it.