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Wet feet

rovie

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Just use some alcohol wipes to clean the area, heat gun to warm up the adhesive and stick back down. Job done. Don’t need to put holes in the seals. Done mine and never come off since.
Exactly. That's how I did it too.
 

Shaky

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Update on this - I had both front door seals replaced earlier in the week for supposedly newer updated ones - they do not have the half moon in them so I questioned it and was told they were the correct ones.

First heavy rain last night - and guess what - WET FEET - seems I will be getting the scissors out again to self modify these seals!

What a complete waste of time and effort on both the agent and my time.

Oh, and by the way I also have a leaking rear door seal - water runs down the inside of the large rear window

Simon did you ever get your rear door seal/leak sorted ??

I have had this intermittently since new, and have been pouring (no pun intended) with the service manager today. Having given this far more attention than before, I have found a probable culprit.

Look at the back roof as it drops down towards the rear doors. There are two body lines ( a small recess) that goes down onto and under the back door top seal on the body. One lines up where the two doors meet, the other one is above the big door and matches up directly where I get drips of water on the inside trim.

A flat seal with a 3-4mm wide gap under it doesn’t look good for sealing.

At the same time of looking I also noticed the (big) back door seal is coming adrift near the bottom as it curves with the door shape. Having read about other stuck bits of trim coming loose and/or falling off, I have a deep suspicion that the double sided tape my not be as good a quality as we would like and is starting to give up the ghost as time goes on OR the surfaces were not clean enough/contaminated when applied !!

Ineos are now saying that ny door seals with a loose surface of 120mm is a new seal and anything less is a stick back with LOCTITE 466 glue. Although I have no idea what 466 glue is tbh.
 

ECrider

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Simon did you ever get your rear door seal/leak sorted ??

I have had this intermittently since new, and have been pouring (no pun intended) with the service manager today. Having given this far more attention than before, I have found a probable culprit.

Look at the back roof as it drops down towards the rear doors. There are two body lines ( a small recess) that goes down onto and under the back door top seal on the body. One lines up where the two doors meet, the other one is above the big door and matches up directly where I get drips of water on the inside trim.

A flat seal with a 3-4mm wide gap under it doesn’t look good for sealing.

At the same time of looking I also noticed the (big) back door seal is coming adrift near the bottom as it curves with the door shape. Having read about other stuck bits of trim coming loose and/or falling off, I have a deep suspicion that the double sided tape my not be as good a quality as we would like and is starting to give up the ghost as time goes on OR the surfaces were not clean enough/contaminated when applied !!

Ineos are now saying that ny door seals with a loose surface of 120mm is a new seal and anything less is a stick back with LOCTITE 466 glue. Although I have no idea what 466 glue is tbh.
four 66pct of the time it works every time!
 

Simon C

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Simon did you ever get your rear door seal/leak sorted ??

I have had this intermittently since new, and have been pouring (no pun intended) with the service manager today. Having given this far more attention than before, I have found a probable culprit.

Look at the back roof as it drops down towards the rear doors. There are two body lines ( a small recess) that goes down onto and under the back door top seal on the body. One lines up where the two doors meet, the other one is above the big door and matches up directly where I get drips of water on the inside trim.

A flat seal with a 3-4mm wide gap under it doesn’t look good for sealing.

At the same time of looking I also noticed the (big) back door seal is coming adrift near the bottom as it curves with the door shape. Having read about other stuck bits of trim coming loose and/or falling off, I have a deep suspicion that the double sided tape my not be as good a quality as we would like and is starting to give up the ghost as time goes on OR the surfaces were not clean enough/contaminated when applied !!

Ineos are now saying that ny door seals with a loose surface of 120mm is a new seal and anything less is a stick back with LOCTITE 466 glue. Although I have no idea what 466 glue is tbh.
It's going in for it's first service in a couple of weeks so hopefully will get sorted then!
 

wolftimj

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I've got the boot washer option on the passenger side. Don't see a definitive fix for it yet, correct me if I'm wrong.
 

RYAustralia

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I've got the boot washer option on the passenger side. Don't see a definitive fix for it yet, correct me if I'm wrong.
Got mine fixed yesterday. Seems the fix is with new adhesion promoter and reattach by agent. Seems to be working for most folks now that the process is established and has clear instructions for agents to follow.
 

Shaky

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I've got the boot washer option on the passenger side. Don't see a definitive fix for it yet, correct me if I'm wrong.

Look at post 382, that is the definitive fix according to Ineos Automotive.

As @RYAustralia says new glue, which Ineos have told the agents which one and told them to go buy it themselves or should I say “source locally” 😀

Loose seal over 120mm in length where the failure is, is a new seal. I don’t think anyone looking for a new seal would promote more of a failure than 120mm though 😂
 

wolftimj

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Look at post 382, that is the definitive fix according to Ineos Automotive.

As @RYAustralia says new glue, which Ineos have told the agents which one and told them to go buy it themselves or should I say “source locally” 😀

Loose seal over 120mm in length where the failure is, is a new seal. I don’t think anyone looking for a new seal would promote more of a failure than 120mm though 😂
Ok, thanks for that. I did find the forward lower part of the door seal not stuck to the paint. Stuck it back down after a little alcohol wiping. Gonna see if that's all it takes, otherwise back to dealer for a new seal.
 

RYAustralia

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Ok, thanks for that. I did find the forward lower part of the door seal not stuck to the paint. Stuck it back down after a little alcohol wiping. Gonna see if that's all it takes, otherwise back to dealer for a new seal.
I took mine back for patch fixing last week, patched bits held but other parts of seal have now come loose. Am booked in for a complete new seal and re-glue using the new adhesion promoter and glue - which should hopefully finally be the end of this annoyance.
 

Skydance

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I really find it odd that this issue hasn’t been put to bed on the newer vehicles and not rectified under the PDI. Do they not learn?
 

RYAustralia

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I really find it odd that this issue hasn’t been put to bed on the newer vehicles and not rectified under the PDI. Do they not learn?
The grenadier door seals have red adhesive tape. The fieldmaster door seals have white adhesive tape. So they clearly do change. Not sure what the difference is but mechanic is gonna find out for me.
 

Tom109

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The grenadier door seals have red adhesive tape. The fieldmaster door seals have white adhesive tape. So they clearly do change. Not sure what the difference is but mechanic is gonna find out for me.
Which works better?
 
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