Victron Energy SmartShunt IP65 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) install

[DCPU]

I didn't want to cut any cables, especially the auxiliary battery earth lead so if necessary it can all be returned to standard spec by just swapping the parts back in. I also imagine that even though it's only a small lead, Ineos will want a pretty penny for a new one:

The clamping arrangement was interesting:

So it was a relatively slow process, measure 2 times, cut once, check orientation for lugs, mark, crimp, heat shrink, fit:

This was the original earth terminal for the auxiliary battery. I attached a main earth lead from here to the bus bar. I also had to attach the black wire from the Smartpass here as it was not long enough to reach to the bus bar:

So cables on the bus bar, from left to right are - 16mm to D250SE, 50mm main battery/chassis earth, 50mm loop to shunt Load Minus terminal. The temperature sensor for the Smartpass was left were Ineos had it, on the negative terminal of the auxiliary battery:

The final cable was the power lead for the shunt to go to the positive terminal on the auxiliary battery. However it was terminated with an M10 ring and the terminal stud was M8. I cut the M100 ring off and used an M8 ring. It was then I discovered that the nut is captive on the stud, and there is no way to put the ring on without cutting a section out to slide it on:

There just remained a bit of a trim job on the bus bar cover to allow it to fit (who the feck designed this so that the cover gaps and the studs don't align? ):

And the finished job:

 

[DCPU]

With everything connected the Smart shunt LED illuminated:

The app was opened and there waiting were updates to the firmware for the app and bluetooth:

Then into the settings to change what needed changing:

 

[DCPU]

So initial live readings:

 

[DCPU]

Not sure what was happening here, but the current spikes coincided with me double locking the vehicle:

 

[DCPU]

I returned to the vehicle today, and the summary screen seemed to show a current draw overnight of 0.6Ah:

And although I did not unlock the vehicle but did log into the app:

 

[DCPU]

And to answer this question:

Another annoying factor is that the usage/ charge history is only available when the phone app is connected to the shunt. When your phone moves further than about 5 meters away from the shunt, you lose all history - no data is stored in the shunt.

It appears to store history - online manual suggests it's a rolling 45 day's worth:

 

[Trialmaster]

Excellent guide to your installation. The question has to be, are you happy with the information you are seeing for the outlay and time spent on the install? Have to say, it's something I would fit as it seems like a very useful tool in diagnosing what is happening.

 

[DCPU]

The question has to be, are you happy with the information you are seeing for the outlay and time spent on the install?

The information type is exactly what you need if you want to understand what's happening with the electrical system, or at least this part of it. It needs more data - partly a function of time and partly a function of operating the vehicle under varying circumstances - before I could honestly answer if I'm happy. So far so good.

As far as outlay is concerned, it's all fairly subjective. Find me a product that measures the same actual variables to the same degree of accuracy. I could dispense with the speedo and just stick my head out of the window to get a reasonable impression of Speed.

Cost wise, it's less than a tank of fuel, much less than the Ineos compass.

Time wise, I'm retired so a productive project that allows me to use a few tools and skills I've picked up over time and learn a few new things along the way, seems an excellent return on investment.

 

[Bruce]

I didn't want to cut any cables, especially the auxiliary battery earth lead

To avoid cutting or the factory cable, provided you can find a place to install the smart shunt close by, could you:

1) run the factory aux negative cable to the Victron battery minus instead of ground
2) run a new starter or battery cable from the Victron load minus to the original ground
3) move the leads from aux negative terminal to a busbar at the Victron load minus

I have a d250se on the way and a smartshunt in hand and feel like it should be an easy install but may be dumbing it down too much.

 

[OGrid]

I’ve only just discovered this thread as it’s an area I’m now focusing on - monitoring the aux battery - as I attach devices to it. Impressive level of detail and taking us through the process. Thanks @DCPU

 

[Znarfgh]

I have taken a very simplistic and temporary approach to keeping an eye on battery voltage and, it's very cheap. No, it does not give me the level of information of a Smart shunt but for now it tells me what the voltage of each battery is.

I have been out of action and not used the Grenadier for about 5 weeks and when I was again able to drive I could see the voltage of each battery at a glance.

The Grenadier started without a problem but did display a low battery voltage warning light which disappeared after driving a while.

So, after some early reports of battery drain I can safely say the system works on my vehicle with no excessive drain on the batteries. I did not have the vehicle locked so this may have produced a different outcome.

Anyway, the point of this post was that there is another, lower cost option that gives you the battery voltage for little cost. I will also purchase a Victron Smart shunt to use on the Lithium battery that I use to power all my ancillaries as I don't want to mess with the factory setup until I have some more detail on the original setup and/or my warranty has expired.

 

[Trialmaster]

Think it's time to go down this route. My only concern is running out of electrical power, Therefore, I want to know the status of both batteries. This thread has all the detail I need. Thanks again to all contributors!

 

[parb]

I bought it. Seems like solid piece of kit.

 

[Cam]

I didn't want to cut any cables, especially the auxiliary battery earth lead so if necessary it can all be returned to standard spec by just swapping the parts back in. I also imagine that even though it's only a small lead, Ineos will want a pretty penny for a new one:
View attachment 7825865

The clamping arrangement was interesting:
View attachment 7825866

So it was a relatively slow process, measure 2 times, cut once, check orientation for lugs, mark, crimp, heat shrink, fit:
View attachment 7825867

This was the original earth terminal for the auxiliary battery. I attached a main earth lead from here to the bus bar. I also had to attach the black wire from the Smartpass here as it was not long enough to reach to the bus bar:
View attachment 7825868

So cables on the bus bar, from left to right are - 16mm to D250SE, 50mm main battery/chassis earth, 50mm loop to shunt Load Minus terminal. The temperature sensor for the Smartpass was left were Ineos had it, on the negative terminal of the auxiliary battery:
View attachment 7825873

The final cable was the power lead for the shunt to go to the positive terminal on the auxiliary battery. However it was terminated with an M10 ring and the terminal stud was M8. I cut the M100 ring off and used an M8 ring. It was then I discovered that the nut is captive on the stud, and there is no way to put the ring on without cutting a section out to slide it on:
View attachment 7825875

There just remained a bit of a trim job on the bus bar cover to allow it to fit (who the feck designed this so that the cover gaps and the studs don't align? ):
View attachment 7825880
View attachment 7825881

And the finished job:
View attachment 7825884

Great post. Thank you. Did you make up a 50mm2 cable with a battery terminal clamp at one end and a lug at the other (to connect from the shunt to the negative post on the aux battery)? Or did it have lugs at either end? Just trying to work that connection out from your photos etc. Cheers!

 

[parb]

Great post. Thank you. Did you make up a 50mm2 cable with a battery terminal clamp at one end and a lug at the other (to connect from the shunt to the negative post on the aux battery)? Or did it have lugs at either end? Just trying to work that connection out from your photos etc. Cheers!

That's what I did. I made a short cable that from the shunt to the ground lug. I connected the original cable from the battery to the stunt. I took care to make sure I made the cables as short as possible and routed them under the fuse box.

 

[Cam]

That's what I did. I made a short cable that from the shunt to the ground lug. I connected the original cable from the battery to the stunt. I took care to make sure I made the cables as short as possible and routed them under the fuse box.

Yes, using the original cable from shunt to battery is what I have decided to do also. Cheers!