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Ovrland Bill

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Looks like I need to be able to get in the garage, but look good.
Yes, I have to be ready to ‘unship’ my Midland antenna for entry into parking garages, car wash, etc.
 

Colorado

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Trying to test fit the Front Runner Nato Can holder, I can get great connection down at the airline track, now have to work on addressing the gap at drip rail, it was about 1/2 inch shorter and the base was drilled out to 3/8 of Inch , this would be great out of box solution out of the box.
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Please post pictures of what your solution is for the gap. I would like to see what ends up working for this. Thanks
 

angstorms

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So you can see there is lot more flexibility on where you place lights on Leitner light bar.
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angstorms

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It's hard to tell from the angle but those top clamp gaps may actually be useful to be able to install a protective barrier between the Frontrunner mount and the painted drip rail. Perhaps a strip of HDPE or similar.

Yes, I end up do that using one of the sliders from Ace Hardware, it worked perfect nice fit. Snugged right up.
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angstorms

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Wired up the Baja Design LP6 Pro and Squadron-R SAE lights. The route was clean after removing the driver side light plastics and pulling the wire up edge of the bumper. I lashed Baja designs wiring harness to the other wire harness to have clean wire install. Note I started with the wiring harness from Baja Design for LP6pro and Squadron-R but cut them down to to what I needed.

LP6 it has three mode of operation, which I wired in Garmin Power Switch which is powered by the 25 amp switched line so I could individually support High Beam ( White ) , Low Beam ( Red) , and Day time running lights ( Yellow) with virtual switch. Note there three separate power wires for each modes ( Yellow, White and Red wires).

One thing to note the two LP6 pro use 20 amp when in High Beam.

I used the empty ground bolts on the mid section of the fender for mounting the Garmin PowerSwitch.

For the Squadron-R SAE lights it is on the smaller 10 amp switched wire .

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