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Rear seat back noise knocking over bumps

Tom109

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I need to find some time to see if I have the same clunk. If so, I may just wrap cord around the pivot and see if that cures it.
 

grenadierboy

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Just returned from my INEOS agent to show them the seat rattle.

I took a copy of D-Mack's photo of the broken bushing (see above).

Senior service guy said...."that's a French job"!!

You mean the new bushing has to come from the factory, I asked?

"No - I will have your back seat removed and sent back to France and take a bqck seat from one of our demo models"
 

DenisM

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Many thanks @C-Mack and @grenadierboy !
A solution at last! My VIN is xxxx20xx. Am wondering whether it's a batch issue ...and if Ineos receive the complete seat assembly from Recaro for their "Just In Time" production line install, then it's Recaro's problem...
I shall henceforth sleep peacefully;) and ask local Bris. dealer if they're aware of it and where to from here....
 

C-Mack

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Thanks for the expalination C-Mack.

Are you saying that the bushing you made & inserted has less tolerance (i.e. a tighter fit) around the pivot arm than the OEM bushing?

I called my agent yesterday (only 10km away) and explained the problem.

They asked me to bring the car in today for their service manager to assess problem and assess what parts are needed to fix under warranty.

Let's see what they do.

cheers
The main problem is there is a tolerance issue between the seat pivot pin (black bit attached to the wider seat back), the plastic bushing that snaps into the smaller seat back mounting hole that slips over the pivot pin when the seat back is installed. It is almost as if the pivot pin itself was made slightly undersized or the mounting hole in the smaller side seat back was made oversized. Either way the bushing just floats around in there between the two metal parts and doesn’t take up any slack. Hence the 2 to 3mm play you were experiencing and the knock/rattling noise. I had the same 2 to 3mm play and on every sharp bump the smaller seat back just rattled in place against the pivot.

All I did was turned a new sleeve/bushing using some Delrin plastic bushing material and sized it so it was a slight interference fit between the pivot pin and seat back mounting hole taking up that 2 to 3mm slack. It’s rock solid and the seat folds up and down just like before with no resistance. Not tooting my own horn but I think the sleeve I made is a better solution than the rather small and fragile OEM bushing as it is wider and can spread the load across the pin more evenly.

Let me know what you dealer finds out and if this is a batch problem. Tell them there is a guy state side experiencing the same issue you are and maybe it’s a wider issue and impacts other owners as well. My VIN ends in: 18002 so it’s probably impacting a certain number before and after my build. I only took delivery of mine in August haven’t even got 300 miles on it yet.
 
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grenadierboy

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Many thanks @C-Mack and @grenadierboy !
A solution at last! My VIN is xxxx20xx. Am wondering whether it's a batch issue ...and if Ineos receive the complete seat assembly from Recaro for their "Just In Time" production line install, then it's Recaro's problem...
I shall henceforth sleep peacefully;) and ask local Bris. dealer if they're aware of it and where to from here....
Denis, my VIN is 1746, so very close to you, so maybe a batch issue.

I am 100% certain the clunking noise was there when I first drove the car home from the dealer but I assumed it was the camp table. Also 100% the seats would be fully madeup at Recaro and installed at the INEOS factory.

The Melbourne based agent technician said he had not personally seen this back seat bushing issue before but he was very quick to say they would not try and fix it but, rather, seat goes back to factory.
 

grenadierboy

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The main problem is there is a tolerance issue between the seat pivot pin (black bit attached to the wider seat back), the plastic bushing that snaps into the smaller seat back mounting hole that slips over the pivot pin when the seat back is installed. It is almost as if the pivot pin itself was made slightly undersized or the mounting hole in the smaller side seat back was made oversized. Either way the bushing just floats around in there between the two metal parts and doesn’t take up any slack. Hence the 2 to 3mm play you were experiencing and the knock/rattling noise. I had the same 2 to 3mm play and on every sharp bump the smaller seat back just rattled in place against the pivot.

All I did was turned a new sleeve/bushing using some Delrin plastic bushing material and sized it so it was a slight interference fit between the pivot pin and seat back mounting hole taking up that 2 to 3mm slack. It’s rock solid and the seat folds up and down just like before with no resistance. Not tooting my own horn but I think the sleeve I made is a better solution than the rather small and fragile OEM bushing as it is wider and can spread the load across the pin more evenly.

Let me know what you dealer finds out and if this is a batch problem. Tell them there is a guy state side experiencing the same issue you are and maybe it’s a wider issue and impacts other owners as well. My VIN ends in: 18002 so it’s probably impacting a certain number before and after my build. I only took delivery of mine in August haven’t even got 300 miles on it yet.
Yeah - I already told him that owners in the US have same issue. Our cars are 16,000 apart so it's not a sp3cific batch issue but rather as you say a part that is not quite fit for purpose!

If the plastic bushing for the smaller single spilt seat cracks again - I would probably fix it myself with the larger bushing
 

C-Mack

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Denis, my VIN is 1746, so very close to you, so maybe a batch issue.

I am 100% certain the clunking noise was there when I first drove the car home from the dealer but I assumed it was the camp table. Also 100% the seats would be fully madeup at Recaro and installed at the INEOS factory.

The Melbourne based agent technician said he had not personally seen this back seat bushing issue before but he was very quick to say they would not try and fix it but, rather, seat goes back to factory.
The noise was there when I drove home from the dealership as well but didn’t really show itself until I was basically home. If my dealer was closer I would have had them deal with it for sure. When it comes to troubleshooting issues like this, in my experience, it usually takes a few back and forth trips and for me that would end up being hundreds of extra miles and wasn’t something I wanted to have to deal with as the road and traffic conditions are very crappy where I live plus the chances of a broken windshield or some other damage going back and forth to get if fixed would have been more than annoying.

I’d rather save my trips to the dealer for when the repairs are really obvious, major service, recall or software related stuff only they can handle. Besides, it was fun getting to know the vehicle a bit better and troubleshooting things. Now if they would just produce a workshop manual for it as they first hinted at a while back that would be even better for folks looking to keep up on their own maintenance.
 

grenadierboy

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I hear you D-Mac and I would have done the same in your position.

Re: workshop manuals - they were not hinted at but promised by Sir Jim himself.

I can tell you that they are still many months away.

I was in a meeting last week with INEOS Australia and they confirmed the manuals are coming but are some away.

I am guessing way into 2025.
 

parb

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How do you reproduce the problem when standing still? Can you move the seat to see if it rattles when moved by hand?
 

DenisM

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How do you reproduce the problem when standing still? Can you move the seat to see if it rattles when moved by hand?
give the door-side of the seat back a sharp wack sideways just above the half way mark... you can see/hear if there is play in the fittings.. ;)
 
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