General Oil check

[Ineos1NZ]

It is perhaps the same as mine, saying test aborted when in fact it has been completed and is ok.
It has been forwarded to the factory for the wording to be altered.
I will check mine when I get it back next week to see if the updater has altered it,

When I got back from collection I checked and it advised add 500 ml, the following week it advised add 500 ml so I have added 1000 ml since pre delivery inspection and have travelled less than 1000km
I have tried a further 5 times and each time the oil check procedure aborted, I share your curiosity in how much oil we have in our engines?

 

[Ineos1NZ]

So it can be run with a cold engine?


Well it's certainly not running the software suggested by the status values shown in the handbook:
View attachment 7822103

 

[Ineos1NZ]

When I got back from collection I checked and it advised add 500 ml, the following week it advised add 500 ml so I have added 1000 ml since pre delivery inspection and have travelled less than 1000km
I have tried a further 5 times and each time the oil check procedure aborted, I share your curiosity in how much oil we have in our engines?

Think somebody already mentioned cross referencing correct oil level via refill/digital gauge and then viewing where that registered on the dipstick. Whether that marries up well or not remains to be seen.

When I got back from collection I checked and it advised add 500 ml, the following week it advised add 500 ml so I have added 1000 ml since pre delivery inspection and have travelled less than 1000km
I have tried a further 5 times and each time the oil check procedure aborted, I share your curiosity in how much oil we have in our engines?

 

[DenisM]

"To Dip or not to Dip one's stick" ...an existential question for the B57 diesel...
Today I embarked on a discovery mission to actually find the elusive dipstick ...
First put the bonnet/hood in the maintenance/upright position. This is a straightforward exercise (it helps to lightly lubricate the grommet in the pivoting brackets to facilitate removal/re-installation...
Next: remove the engine cover. Takes less than 10 seconds : carefully lever one corner with two hands then proceed around the perimeter carefully levering the plastic extrusions from the o-ring receptacles...
What a sight to behold!


The dipstick cover is located slightly below the level of the "faded yellow" plastic collar as per the blue arrow

Close up below ---second arrow shows location of oil filter casing. The requisite fastening torque 25 Nm is engraved on the top of the screw-on cover



Below are close-ups of the dipstick in detail


Yes...it has oil... and seems quite full ...though the magic computer indicates it needs another 500ml for both on road and off-road! (after 6,200km).





Dip stick receptacle

Other "finds"...


sorry for the poor quality of the pics... the macro function on my Samsung 10+ isn't real effective:
Tried to capture the view under the LHS mudguard/fender. When I pushed down from above the metal flexed ever so lightly then I could feel something quite solid underneath. Under the top mudguard/fender panel I could feel a second metal panel...much thicker. Then there's what seems to be a thick solid "pillow" of (guessing here) some sort of black thermoplastic? material which fills the void and distributes any weight resting on the outside of the top panel...I didn't have the courage to "dismount" (Hi JM! ) the mudguard/ fender to find out...

The flat area of the mudguard/fender is quite a bonus. I'm rethinking my original decision not to option the alloy plates. Maybe a cut-to-size section of thick clear vinyl wrap will do for the meantime

 

[Tazzieman]

@DenisM it's as tight as a fish's arse back there! And confirmed my petrol one has no dipstick.

 

[MrMike]

"To Dip or not to Dip one's stick" ...an existential question for the B57 diesel...
Today I embarked on a discovery mission to actually find the elusive dipstick ...
First put the bonnet/hood in the maintenance/upright position. This is a straightforward exercise (it helps to lightly lubricate the grommet in the pivoting brackets to facilitate removal/re-installation...
Next: remove the engine cover. Takes less than 10 seconds : carefully lever one corner with two hands then proceed around the perimeter carefully levering the plastic extrusions from the o-ring receptacles...
What a sight to behold!

View attachment 7843068
The dipstick cover is located slightly below the level of the "faded yellow" plastic collar as per the blue arrow

Close up below ---second arrow shows location of oil filter casing. The requisite fastening torque 25 Nm is engraved on the top of the screw-on cover

View attachment 7843070

Below are close-ups of the dipstick in detail

View attachment 7843076
Yes...it has oil... and seems quite full ...though the magic computer indicates it needs another 500ml for both on road and off-road! (after 6,200km).



View attachment 7843071View attachment 7843072View attachment 7843073View attachment 7843074View attachment 7843075

Dip stick receptacle

Other "finds"...
View attachment 7843077View attachment 7843078

sorry for the poor quality of the pics... the macro function on my Samsung 10+ isn't real effective:
Tried to capture the view under the LHS mudguard/fender. When I pushed down from above the metal flexed ever so lightly then I could feel something quite solid underneath. Under the top mudguard/fender panel I could feel a second metal panel...much thicker. Then there's what seems to be a thick solid "pillow" of (guessing here) some sort of black thermoplastic? material which fills the void and distributes any weight resting on the outside of the top panel...I didn't have the courage to "dismount" (Hi JM! ) the mudguard/ fender to find out...

The flat area of the mudguard/fender is quite a bonus. I'm rethinking my original decision not to option the alloy plates. Maybe a cut-to-size section of thick clear vinyl wrap will do for the meantime

That thermo plastic is Polystyrene

 

[ECrider]

"To Dip or not to Dip one's stick" ...an existential question for the B57 diesel...
Today I embarked on a discovery mission to actually find the elusive dipstick ...
First put the bonnet/hood in the maintenance/upright position. This is a straightforward exercise (it helps to lightly lubricate the grommet in the pivoting brackets to facilitate removal/re-installation...
Next: remove the engine cover. Takes less than 10 seconds : carefully lever one corner with two hands then proceed around the perimeter carefully levering the plastic extrusions from the o-ring receptacles...
What a sight to behold!

View attachment 7843068
The dipstick cover is located slightly below the level of the "faded yellow" plastic collar as per the blue arrow

Close up below ---second arrow shows location of oil filter casing. The requisite fastening torque 25 Nm is engraved on the top of the screw-on cover

View attachment 7843070

Below are close-ups of the dipstick in detail

View attachment 7843076
Yes...it has oil... and seems quite full ...though the magic computer indicates it needs another 500ml for both on road and off-road! (after 6,200km).



View attachment 7843071View attachment 7843072View attachment 7843073View attachment 7843074View attachment 7843075

Dip stick receptacle

Other "finds"...
View attachment 7843077View attachment 7843078

sorry for the poor quality of the pics... the macro function on my Samsung 10+ isn't real effective:
Tried to capture the view under the LHS mudguard/fender. When I pushed down from above the metal flexed ever so lightly then I could feel something quite solid underneath. Under the top mudguard/fender panel I could feel a second metal panel...much thicker. Then there's what seems to be a thick solid "pillow" of (guessing here) some sort of black thermoplastic? material which fills the void and distributes any weight resting on the outside of the top panel...I didn't have the courage to "dismount" (Hi JM! ) the mudguard/ fender to find out...

The flat area of the mudguard/fender is quite a bonus. I'm rethinking my original decision not to option the alloy plates. Maybe a cut-to-size section of thick clear vinyl wrap will do for the meantime

excellent photos and info. tks.
I wonder if that polystyrene is the 'reinforcement' that comes on RoW cars, or whether there's even additional reinforcement when optioning the chequer plate. Bit of a mystery still. Will have a go locating my dipstick - ooer when the weather dries up. Will be good to know what the base measurement is when full. Though my computer still asking for 500ml refil for offroad when it's had close to 8l!!

 

[DenisM]

excellent photos and info. tks.
I wonder if that polystyrene is the 'reinforcement' that comes on RoW cars, or whether there's even additional reinforcement when optioning the chequer plate. Bit of a mystery still. Will have a go locating my dipstick - ooer when the weather dries up. Will be good to know what the base measurement is when full. Though my computer still asking for 500ml refil for offroad when it's had close to 8l!!

Under the top external panel there's a rigid metal panel, certainly significantly thicker than the exterior one. The polystyrene sits directly below this. Need to remove the wheel arch cover to confirm the structure....

 

[ECrider]

Under the top external panel there's a rigid metal panel, certainly significantly thicker than the exterior one. The polystyrene sits directly below this. Need to remove the wheel arch cover to confirm the structure....

Thank you. Will have a look under mine. My wings are very flexible, you would not want to put anything heavier than a claw hammer in the middle.

 

[Rok_Dr]

"To Dip or not to Dip one's stick" ...an existential question for the B57 diesel...
Today I embarked on a discovery mission to actually find the elusive dipstick ...
First put the bonnet/hood in the maintenance/upright position. This is a straightforward exercise (it helps to lightly lubricate the grommet in the pivoting brackets to facilitate removal/re-installation...
Next: remove the engine cover. Takes less than 10 seconds : carefully lever one corner with two hands then proceed around the perimeter carefully levering the plastic extrusions from the o-ring receptacles...
What a sight to behold!

View attachment 7843068
The dipstick cover is located slightly below the level of the "faded yellow" plastic collar as per the blue arrow

Close up below ---second arrow shows location of oil filter casing. The requisite fastening torque 25 Nm is engraved on the top of the screw-on cover

View attachment 7843070

Below are close-ups of the dipstick in detail

View attachment 7843076
Yes...it has oil... and seems quite full ...though the magic computer indicates it needs another 500ml for both on road and off-road! (after 6,200km).



View attachment 7843071View attachment 7843072View attachment 7843073View attachment 7843074View attachment 7843075

Dip stick receptacle

Other "finds"...
View attachment 7843077View attachment 7843078

sorry for the poor quality of the pics... the macro function on my Samsung 10+ isn't real effective:
Tried to capture the view under the LHS mudguard/fender. When I pushed down from above the metal flexed ever so lightly then I could feel something quite solid underneath. Under the top mudguard/fender panel I could feel a second metal panel...much thicker. Then there's what seems to be a thick solid "pillow" of (guessing here) some sort of black thermoplastic? material which fills the void and distributes any weight resting on the outside of the top panel...I didn't have the courage to "dismount" (Hi JM! ) the mudguard/ fender to find out...

The flat area of the mudguard/fender is quite a bonus. I'm rethinking my original decision not to option the alloy plates. Maybe a cut-to-size section of thick clear vinyl wrap will do for the meantime

Great info @DenisM, thanks for posting.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Two days ago I had to do the oil check procedure on my petrol car, because I had a red warning. It told me to add 1 liter of oil (0W20). I had a 1 liter container of that oil in the car.

I added one liter, and did the check again, and this was the result:

Result, as you can see:

• Level On Road OK
• Level Off Road: refill 500 ml!

Why do I need more oil while driving off road? Because to many bumps, or because of the "attitude" of the car?

As I will probably not do any off road in the next days, I didn't add the 500 ml (and anyway, I had only that one liter).

 

[JSDKMS!]

When I got back from collection I checked and it advised add 500 ml, the following week it advised add 500 ml so I have added 1000 ml since pre delivery inspection and have travelled less than 1000km
I have tried a further 5 times and each time the oil check procedure aborted, I share your curiosity in how much oil we have in our engines?

What type of oil does the Grenadier use for a gas engine?

 

[Logsplitter]

What type of oil does the Grenadier use for a gas engine?

Different specs depending whether it’s euro 6 as in UK and EU or African models have Euro 4 I understand. For my petrol UK Grenadier I’ll add the photo from the vehicle

 

[AWo]

Two days ago I had to do the oil check procedure on my petrol car, because I had a red warning. It told me to add 1 liter of oil (0W20). I had a 1 liter container of that oil in the car.

I added one liter, and did the check again, and this was the result:
View attachment 7861260

Result, as you can see:

• Level On Road OK
• Level Off Road: refill 500 ml!

Why do I need more oil while driving off road? Because to many bumps, or because of the "attitude" of the car?

As I will probably not do any off road in the next days, I didn't add the 500 ml (and anyway, I had only that one liter).

The general answer is: whst you must take into accoun is driving slopes. It must be ensured, that the oil pump intake is always below the oil level.

AWo

 

[Jean Mercier]

The general answer, mot taking into account, us driving slopes. It must be ensured, that the oil pump intake is always below the oil level.

AWo

OK, thanks, of course, but I didn’t know this. Nice feedback!

 

[Stu_Barnes]

OK, thanks, of course, but I didn’t know this. Nice feedback!

Also the extra oil increases the thermal capacity of the lubrication system especially handy when you’re operating in very warm climates. But the main reason as @AWo points out is to reduce the chance of oil starvation at extreme angles.

 

[bakepl]

Two days ago I had to do the oil check procedure on my petrol car, because I had a red warning. It told me to add 1 liter of oil (0W20). I had a 1 liter container of that oil in the car.

I added one liter, and did the check again, and this was the result:
View attachment 7861260

Result, as you can see:

• Level On Road OK
• Level Off Road: refill 500 ml!

Why do I need more oil while driving off road? Because to many bumps, or because of the "attitude" of the car?

As I will probably not do any off road in the next days, I didn't add the 500 ml (and anyway, I had only that one liter).

Interesting enough, I also had the 'Refill 500ml' for off road come up - vehicle was level. I put in EXACTLY 500ml. I performed a measurement again and both levels said 'Ok'. I drove for about half an hour and an oil 'overfill' warning in amber colour came up on the main screen and amber triangle on the fault screen. I removed 250ml and both indicated 'Ok'. Note the engine oil dipstick was a little over the full mark after I added the 500ml. (I did say in a previous thread I would have to get used to the electronic oil measurement version... alas no, +1 for old school engine dipsticks - I've NEVER had to remove engine oil before due to an 'overfill'.)

 

[Tazzieman]

Why do they not have the sump at offroad level as a default?
"Full is empty" is probably what Christian from LR time would add to his "red is black and plus is minus" advice!

 

[AWo]

Yes, more oil means less heat, that means thicker oil, that means it is easier to maintain oil pressure.

Side fact: oil pressure is only one important point. The other on is the amount of oil pumped through the system per time. Too less oil circulating due to very small gaps between moving parts, small holes etc will lead to local overheating as the oil needs to cool the moving surfaces. In racing the gap dimensions of bearings are often slightly increased to get better cooling.

AWo

 

[Tazzieman]

Yes, more oil means less heat, that means thicker oil, that means it is easier to maintain oil pressure.

Many last century Porsche engines that require relatively thick oils with high film strength have been destroyed by "modern" mechanics and DIYers who assume thin synthetics are better than the oils Porsche specified at the time.