Build Thread My car

[Stu9]

Rear Storage / Drawers:
Off Road Systems were one of the first people that i heard had access to a Grenadier and would sell drawers, so being the impatient man i am, i bought them. They shipped them to me and i assembled and fitted them myself.
I went for a drawer fridge as i still wanted space on top of the drawers, plus it's easier for my lady to see into.

In the side/wing pockets of the drawers i was able to fit:

ARB twin compressor on the jack side, with room to get the jack past the compressor, just. plus switch and hose connection on the face just inside the small door. there is still room in that wing space for a little bag that's home to my hoses and inflators etc.

2000W invertor (240V) for coffee machine and an induction cooktop - this means no gas, so basically unlimited cooking power for longer trips

50A anderson accessory point. this is basically spare so i can run 12V to whatever i want. Eg a second fridge etc

Battery monitor for the Aux lithium, along with a solar input and a couple of USBs for phones etc.

Lastly i made a shelf for up the top of the cargo space, which you can read about in this post here: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/diy-rear-cargo-shelf.12414074/

Any idea of the weight of your drawers, refrigerator and other items in the back?

 

[Krabby]

Met another owner and helped him with a few mods on his car. Met up again on the weekend to take them both for a run along the beach
View attachment 7844064

Were they a member when you met? Certainly I hope they are here now!

 

[Krabby]

I think he was, we have both certainly spoken of this forum.
We have about one grenadier per 12000 people in my area, close to 200 vehicles now.
I’ve met a few owners via mutual connections that have put us in touch. Becoming a neat little community supporting one another

And the more the merrier. What I love about our members is the pure diversity - we're a very eclectic group and range greatly in age, nationality, career choice (and retired), etc. Makes for a great place to hang out.

 

[Alprider]

Nice work Dan, makes me wish I still lived in Perth so I could bring my TM around

 

[Joey]

Met another owner and helped him with a few mods on his car. Met up again on the weekend to take them both for a run along the beach
View attachment 7844064

That's a fine looking MM FM behind you!

 

[AFdude412]

Adjusted in some more caster last week. Approx 5mm. I marked the bushes to I can go back to where it was. Haven’t taken the time to put it on the turn plates yet to check degrees.
Done about 1000km since, incl highway towing.
The steering is a little heavier, return to centre is slightly better. There is also more feel from the steering wheel. Not a polar shift, but noticeable.
Previously I’d removed the dampener to get a feel for using a lower dampening rate unit.
After some rough road testing, I decided I would prefer to stick with the factory dampener, so went the route of playing with caster.
Photo from the test trip
View attachment 7847592

Looks sick! Does the light bar help with the wind noise of the rack at all?

 

[LC0013]

Depending where you place it. This one works as shown and makes very little noise.
I’ve added rubber strip into the fins on the back of the light bar previously to help too.

What is the brand of the light bar? Ineos offering?

 

[Nishan]

Rear Storage / Drawers:
Off Road Systems were one of the first people that i heard had access to a Grenadier and would sell drawers, so being the impatient man i am, i bought them. They shipped them to me and i assembled and fitted them myself.
I went for a drawer fridge as i still wanted space on top of the drawers, plus it's easier for my lady to see into.

In the side/wing pockets of the drawers i was able to fit:

ARB twin compressor on the jack side, with room to get the jack past the compressor, just. plus switch and hose connection on the face just inside the small door. there is still room in that wing space for a little bag that's home to my hoses and inflators etc.

2000W invertor (240V) for coffee machine and an induction cooktop - this means no gas, so basically unlimited cooking power for longer trips

50A anderson accessory point. this is basically spare so i can run 12V to whatever i want. Eg a second fridge etc

Battery monitor for the Aux lithium, along with a solar input and a couple of USBs for phones etc.

Lastly i made a shelf for up the top of the cargo space, which you can read about in this post here: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/diy-rear-cargo-shelf.12414074/

Lightbar:
Full length roof racks have light bars on the front, big ones. Thats just how the world works.
I went with 50" ST-X bar from stedi, attached to the rack with their LED mounts

i wired it to the RHS front roof outlet, but wasn't happy having it on the overhead switch. So i found the relay that runs the ext2 circuit (pictured) then cut the trigger wire to it so i could attach a new one (so the overhead switch no longer works). I took a power feed off the front spotlights on the grille and ran the wire through the firewall and along the sill to get it under the back seat. Then I joined it to the relay where I had cut the old trigger wire off.
Now the overhead light switches on and off at the same time the front ones do.

Lightbar:
Full length roof racks have light bars on the front, big ones. Thats just how the world works.
I went with 50" ST-X bar from stedi, attached to the rack with their LED mounts

i wired it to the RHS front roof outlet, but wasn't happy having it on the overhead switch. So i found the relay that runs the ext2 circuit (pictured) then cut the trigger wire to it so i could attach a new one (so the overhead switch no longer works). I took a power feed off the front spotlights on the grille and ran the wire through the firewall and along the sill to get it under the back seat. Then I joined it to the relay where I had cut the old trigger wire off.
Now the overhead light switches on and off at the same time the front ones do. win!

Lightbar:
Full length roof racks have light bars on the front, big ones. Thats just how the world works.
I went with 50" ST-X bar from stedi, attached to the rack with their LED mounts

i wired it to the RHS front roof outlet, but wasn't happy having it on the overhead switch. So i found the relay that runs the ext2 circuit (pictured) then cut the trigger wire to it so i could attach a new one (so the overhead switch no longer works). I took a power feed off the front spotlights on the grille and ran the wire through the firewall and along the sill to get it under the back seat. Then I joined it to the relay where I had cut the old trigger wire off.
Now the overhead light switches on and off at the same time the front ones do. win!

Hi Mate,
What do you mean by trigger wire?. Is it overhead on/off switch for front driving lights.(OEM)?. I bought 4" Narva driving lights with builtin relays. Harnes has only power and hibeam trigger. Did you use overhead switch wire as a hibeam trigger?
Thanks

 

[Nishan]

By trigger wire, I mean the wire that triggers, switches, or actuates the relay. Not its power feed, just the switch wire.
My overhead spotlight switch works as per factory. But now when the factory spots light up, so does the roof light.
I did this by taking a feed from the spotlights positive connection. This power wire is only live when the factory spotlights are illuminated. I then connected this into the EXT2 25A relay.
So now that relay no longer switches on off by the roof ext2 switch.
That relay now switches on and off the moment the factory spotlights do, so in effect the factory spotlights and the roof light bar now operate in parallel, together, as one, at the same moment in time.
I hope this answers your question

OK. This is really helpfull. I should be able to do the same by connecting hibeam trigger to factory spot light positive connection. Do you have any photos of how did you tap in to factory spot light positive connection?.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

By trigger wire, I mean the wire that triggers, switches, or actuates the relay. Not its power feed, just the switch wire.
My overhead spotlight switch works as per factory. But now when the factory spots light up, so does the roof light.
I did this by taking a feed from the spotlights positive connection. This power wire is only live when the factory spotlights are illuminated. I then connected this into the EXT2 25A relay.
So now that relay no longer switches on off by the roof ext2 switch.
That relay now switches on and off the moment the factory spotlights do, so in effect the factory spotlights and the roof light bar now operate in parallel, together, as one, at the same moment in time.
I hope this answers your question

This is what I'm doing too. I'm then going to cut the other end of the brown trigger wire from the ext2 switch above the roof panel and use it to feed / switch the wolfbox mirror install.

 

[Thinpins]

Planning:
After cutting the grille I felt like the "plastic was off". At the time i couldn't find any info with regard to how and where to run electrical wires for UHF ratio and electric trailer brakes, compressor placement etc, so i set to stripping the car to have a good look around and start planning.
i stripped the back door trims and the cargo areas, removed the battery covers from the rear seat, removed the front seats and carpet under them. Then took the dash apart, removed the centre console and roof switch panel. wheel inner guards came out along with the wheel arch flares and the external trims around the back door. Learnt plenty and didn't break much.
I found all the spare aux wiring - what an easter egg hunt that was!
Then set to testing a bunch of things to see how they worked and what voltage things ran at.
Also sketched out the aux switch panel as people kept asking me what was what up there - ref the photos below

Do you mind showing how you ran the antenna cable into the upper corner trim into the interior? Did you run it between the body panels I’ve marked up in the pic? Were there many obstructions when snaking across the roof lining.

 

[RYAustralia]

View attachment 7866107Also missed that fact that a few months ago I did considerable damage to the paintwork in the scrub whilst on a trip.
So got the worst of the scratches buffed and a PPF applied. It’s the bushwrapz advanced 5 year product and only covers sides etc, not the bonnet or roof.
Hides the scratches and is easy to clean. Also enjoying the peace of mind when off road. Should have done it from the outset.
9.5/10 so long as it lasts the 5 years they claim.

Haha, I did exactly the same, scratches everywhere, got them buffed out and then had self healing PPF installed. Looks like new ever since!

 

[LeeroyJ]

looks like an awesome trip. can't wait to get my extended fuel tank!

 

[Peter Salmonides]

I tried to contact Brown Davis several times from Vienna/Austria/Europe with the question wether the fuel tank is only for Diesel (because I've a Trialmaster petrol edition), but no answer at all! Do You know, the fuel tank ist also ready for petrol?

 

[TheDocAUS]

I tried to contact Brown Davis several times from Vienna/Austria/Europe with the question wether the fuel tank is only for Diesel (because I've a Trialmaster petrol edition), but no answer at all! Do You know, the fuel tank ist also ready for petrol?

I have not seen any release of the Petrol model, so far. It cannot be that far away as 3 diesel models have been released: Grenadier (1 model) QM (2 models).

 

[Mudnut]

Fitted the Brown Davis 68L aux tank.
Great having 158L onboard now.
It comes with a replacement filler neck that fills both tanks at once, and can also receive a larger diameter hi-flow diesel bowser nozzle (some places this is all that’s available eg remote truck stops). I note that I haven’t been able to fill mine at the high flow rate though and have to meter the nozzle to avoid it clicking off or spilling etc.
The instructions were terrible and fitting took a solid day.
I varied the intended fitment as follows:

Threw out the supplied exhaust replacement and welded on a new stainless steel exhaust to match the factory one. The supplied one was carbon steel and only held on with a u-bolt which felt like a downgrade to the car.

Added some self adhesive heat shielding to the tank where the exhaust runs very close to it

Cut the adblue neck support bracket off the old filler neck and used it to support the adblue neck by attaching to the new filler neck. There was no provision for this in what was supplied and another downgrade from what Ineos made.

I used a heat gun and welding gloves to re-mould the inner guard around the additional piping. This wasn’t in the instructions and I’m not sure how you could possible get it to clip back in where it was without doing this. I can only assume others just don’t bother.

It’s an average product with ill considered fitment but it does the job. However the car is miles more capable now I can carry enough fuel for extended Offroad trips

I didn’t take photos during the install. Sorry.
5.5/10

I am curious about the old filler neck. Do you still have it? If yes, do you think it would be possible for the black plastic inside the cap to be cut out and remove the stupid flap. Would this enlarge the opening enough to allow a high flow nozzle? I have a Quartermaster, and am thinking of doing this modification as I work remote. LR tank not a viable option (read expensive) as 5x fuel cans in the back tub is easy.

 

[DenisM]

I am curious about the old filler neck. Do you still have it? If yes, do you think it would be possible for the black plastic inside the cap to be cut out and remove the stupid flap. Would this enlarge the opening enough to allow a high flow nozzle? I have a Quartermaster, and am thinking of doing this modification as I work remote. LR tank not a viable option (read expensive) as 5x fuel cans in the back tub is easy.

A $3 plastic long spout funnel from "Supercrap" with the spout cut off at the 25mm external diameter mark pushes the flap out of the way and enables "Hi Flow" nozzles and "Sceptre" brand jerry can spouts to be used.

 

[123456789]

I am curious about the old filler neck. Do you still have it? If yes, do you think it would be possible for the black plastic inside the cap to be cut out and remove the stupid flap. Would this enlarge the opening enough to allow a high flow nozzle? I have a Quartermaster, and am thinking of doing this modification as I work remote. LR tank not a viable option (read expensive) as 5x fuel cans in the back tub is easy.

I didn’t keep it and didn’t have a decent look at it. I have a plastic adaptor I was using previously. PM me and I’ll post it to you

 

[Mudnut]

I didn’t keep it and didn’t have a decent look at it. I have a plastic adaptor I was using previously. PM me and I’ll post it to you

Thanks for the reply, and offer. I sm in Qld, and you are in WA, so no reason to post the adapter. I can organize getting an adapter over here. I was just looking at options to make it easier for fueling without the need for an adapter. High flow filler I believe is 32mm, so need to see if the filler pipe is larger, and adaptable to fit. Looks lile some more research is needed.
Have been following your build with interest, and have already copied many things you have done!
Cheers,
Ken