Light bar Outlet limit

[K1LL3M]

I note in the specs the current draw on the light bar outlet is 25amps.

There are now quite a few light bars pulling more than that and running multiple high power bars like the new narva or stedi 3303 or multiple spotties could potentially see that tripled.

What are people's thoughts on upgrading this outlet to support the higher current?

 

[AnD3rew]

I note in the specs the current draw on the light bar outlet is 25amps.

There are now quite a few light bars pulling more than that and running multiple high power bars like the new narva or stedi 3303 or multiple spotties could potentially see that tripled.

What are people's thoughts on upgrading this outlet to support the higher current?

Most light bars are under 25. The 3303 is 16A, their 52” double row 100 led which is about their biggest is 23A. If you really think you need more you could upgrade but would likely need a whole new wiring harness, plug and fuses. But anything or achievable with money or skills and courage.

 

[K1LL3M]

The newer lights are tending towards smaller and higher current, so you ate fitting multiples across. Their 28" that you could may be fit 2 is 25.4amps alone, so already over for just 1 and then their 3303 pro 39" pulls 40amps and requires twin connections.

The evo spotties are 25 a pair, trying to run 3 pairs would mean 75amps.

I was kind of hoping there might be a cheap means of using the already installed stuff upgrading to run multiples like seen in some promo stuff, without having to basically ignore the work already done and paid for.

I guess we (maybe just me) are out of the ordinary and it wasn't quite built for that, but a 50 amp sure would have been nicer, (so would have the other 3 roof point being separated individually)

 

[DaveB]

The newer lights are tending towards smaller and higher current, so you ate fitting multiples across. Their 28" that you could may be fit 2 is 25.4amps alone, so already over for just 1 and then their 3303 pro 39" pulls 40amps and requires twin connections.

The evo spotties are 25 a pair, trying to run 3 pairs would mean 75amps.

I was kind of hoping there might be a cheap means of using the already installed stuff upgrading to run multiples like seen in some promo stuff, without having to basically ignore the work already done and paid for.

I guess we (maybe just me) are out of the ordinary and it wasn't quite built for that, but a 50 amp sure would have been nicer, (so would have the other 3 roof point being separated individually)

You realise this vehicle is speed limited to 160kmh?

 

[DaveB]

Interesting about 17 mins in he says that if you are mounting lights on the roof you should select light bars that have rearward facing LED's

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U86kNxqlAq4

 

[DCPU]

You could always relocate the NATO socket to the roof ~ sounds like you could use the full 350A.

Just check the roof paint isn't likely to peel.

 

[gkhaldi]

I note in the specs the current draw on the light bar outlet is 25amps.

There are now quite a few light bars pulling more than that and running multiple high power bars like the new narva or stedi 3303 or multiple spotties could potentially see that tripled.

What are people's thoughts on upgrading this outlet to support the higher current?

Hi, I have the same question. I’m looking at a 48” Lazer Elite light bar and it draws 25.3 amps at 14.4V. I think the 25A fuse and relay are not sufficient. Anyone has an idea if a replacement fuse of 30A or 40A would be sufficient? The cabling seems OK but I have no idea about the relay that actuates the circuit. Insights are welcome As my roofrack is underway and I’d like to order and install the light bar shortly. Thanks

 

[AnD3rew]

Hi, I have the same question. I’m looking at a 48” Lazer Elite light bar and it draws 25.3 amps at 14.4V. I think the 25A fuse and relay are not sufficient. Anyone has an idea if a replacement fuse of 30A or 40A would be sufficient? The cabling seems OK but I have no idea about the relay that actuates the circuit. Insights are welcome As my roofrack is underway and I’d like to order and install the light bar shortly. Thanks

I would rewire the whole thing if you are going to do that as you are just guessing at the capacity of the wiring. Plenty of powerful lightbars well under the 25a limit which is probably the smarter option.

 

[DaveB]

Hi, I have the same question. I’m looking at a 48” Lazer Elite light bar and it draws 25.3 amps at 14.4V. I think the 25A fuse and relay are not sufficient. Anyone has an idea if a replacement fuse of 30A or 40A would be sufficient? The cabling seems OK but I have no idea about the relay that actuates the circuit. Insights are welcome As my roofrack is underway and I’d like to order and install the light bar shortly. Thanks

The Linear 48 Elite gives you just under 25,000 lumens and really good light coverage but is a bit limited in versatility


I was looking at the same but decided to either drop down one size or use 4 of the smaller ones wired together and aimed to give better coverage
I figures in Australia i have les need to see what is 1.5 kms down the road and more need to see what is 500 metres in front and 50-80 metres each side of the road at 0-200 metres.
4 x Linear 12 will give you just over 23,000 lumens
Try 4 of these with two in centre aimed straight or 5 degrees off centre in either direction
Then aim the two outside ones 10-15 degrees outwards.
You will end up with about 6 lux (estimate) at 100 Metres spread 50 metres each side of centre.
You would probably still get 5-6 lux at 250 metres.
23.2 amps.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mERoqz4Nz1w

 

[Jean Mercier]

Hi, I have the same question. I’m looking at a 48” Lazer Elite light bar and it draws 25.3 amps at 14.4V. I think the 25A fuse and relay are not sufficient. Anyone has an idea if a replacement fuse of 30A or 40A would be sufficient? The cabling seems OK but I have no idea about the relay that actuates the circuit. Insights are welcome As my roofrack is underway and I’d like to order and install the light bar shortly. Thanks

The difference is so small (25 compared to 25.3) that I would dare to put a 30 A fuse. The wiring has always a quite serious safety margin.

 

[K1LL3M]

It probably has a 30amp fuse anyway

I was looking at options because I wanted to run a 2 light pair pulling more than 25 ampS

In the end, I decided it was just easier to go Accept the 25 and got a 52" ST4K Stedi bar.

 

[gkhaldi]

Thanks for the recommendations. So I think I’ll do the alternative option that I was mixing about; get the linear 36” Elite mounted in front of the Blacksheep roof rack (you would hardly see it) and angle it in such a fashion that it illuminates far out. I would also replace the auxiliary led lights in the grill by removing the and put 2 x 7” Sentinel Elite’s. Visually it would be fine and it wouldn’t block cooling. Just need to CNC a support to mount them on with minimal visual deviation from the original. As soon as Blacksheep delivers all my stuff and can start getting the lighting done. I’ll keep you posted and put some pics up.

 

[CB]

I'm not sure if this video has already been posted on the Linear 36 Elite; it draws 21.4 amps.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3qGqIG9Qlw&list=WL&index=93

 

[evomind]

I would think it would just be a lot easier to find 25a lights.

 

[Bobby Mac]

You realise this vehicle is speed limited to 160kmh?

You could always utilise the tow bar to haul a generator to power the auxiliary lighting

Bigger (higher amperage) is not always better as those who have driven through the outback would know. The light pattern is far more important and that can be very different between heavily forested areas and wide open areas where the landscape just seems to ‘soak’ up the light because there is nothing for it to reflect off.

 

[DaveB]

I would think it would just be a lot easier to find 25a lights.

Problem is there are a lot of lights out there and many are very poor quality and have dubious light output figures.
If your supplier/manufacturer can't supply one of these charts for the lightbar then you have no idea what you are buying
Linear 48 -25.3 Amps 364 watts and 25,000 real lumens
Triple R 28 22.6 amps 326 watts and 19,000 real lumens
T 28 19.3 amps 278 watts and 17,500 real lumens.
Very different ight patterns for very different uses.
At several 4wd shows and also online I have asked several of the leading lightbar companies to supply these and not a chance.
A couple had no idea what I was talking about.

 

[DaveB]

You could always utilise the tow bar to haul a generator to power the auxiliary lighting

Bigger (higher amperage) is not always better as those who have driven through the outback would know. The light pattern is far more important and that can be very different between heavily forested areas and wide open areas where the landscape just seems to ‘soak’ up the light because there is nothing for it to reflect off.

100% correct

 

[K1LL3M]

Problem is there are a lot of lights out there and many are very poor quality and have dubious light output figures.
If your supplier/manufacturer can't supply one of these charts for the lightbar then you have no idea what you are buying
Linear 48 -25.3 Amps 364 watts and 25,000 real lumens
Triple R 28 22.6 amps 326 watts and 19,000 real lumens
T 28 19.3 amps 278 watts and 17,500 real lumens.
Very different ight patterns for very different uses.
At several 4wd shows and also online I have asked several of the leading lightbar companies to supply these and not a chance.
A couple had no idea what I was talking about.

View attachment 7827144View attachment 7827146View attachment 7827147
View attachment 7827148View attachment 7827149View attachment 7827150

You do need to be able to read those graphs. They are not always presented the same between manufacturers. There best use is in comparision between a manufacturers on lights and for spread vs spot choice. Outside of that, some type of night shot is the best if you can get one.
Less than 1lux metrics are pointless and serves only to trick you in how good it looks on paper.

 

[DaveB]

You do need to be able to read those graphs. They are not always presented the same between manufacturers. There best use is in comparision between a manufacturers on lights and for spread vs spot choice. Outside of that, some type of night shot is the best if you can get one.
Less than 1lux metrics are pointless and serves only to trick you in how good it looks on paper.

Yes for the round lights in the sentinel range Lazerlamps show the chart when mounted in pairs as they assume that is what you will do.
They also have the pictures you mentioned and actual videos.
Very professional.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35E1sNI4cxo

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDruXYqjaQI

 

[K1LL3M]

Yes for the round lights in the sentinel range Lazerlamps show the chart when mounted in pairs as they assume that is what you will do.
They also have the pictures you mentioned and actual videos.
Very professional.
View attachment 7827163View attachment 7827164

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35E1sNI4cxo

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDruXYqjaQI

Yeah, they are pretty decent. Stedi do the same and Narva as well

Narva also do a pretty good job of representing that graph with light

And a pair of these 24s is what I wanted to run. But max draw is 30a each

https://www.narva.com.au/pages/ultima-light-bar#range