Just joined from Perth, Australia

[Davgerman64]

Hi Everyone, I’ve just joined up after being advised my Trialmaster Petrol is now in production with delivery date later this year. Not sure if it’s best to get roof rack and bar work done at factory or if after market is a better option. Keen for advice
Thinking of keeping my old 2008 RR L322 3.6 tdv8 too as I’m feeling separational anxiety already.

 

[Stu_Barnes]

Welcome to the forum @Davgerman64 you’re in good company in Perth.

There’s a few on here that have optioned the factory rack and bars who I’m sure will chime in with their experiences to date.

Stu.

 

[DaveB]

Hi Everyone, I’ve just joined up after being advised my Trialmaster Petrol is now in production with delivery date later this year. Not sure if it’s best to get roof rack and bar work done at factory or if after market is a better option. Keen for advice
Thinking of keeping my old 2008 RR L322 3.6 tdv8 too as I’m feeling separational anxiety already.

Thee isn't an aftermarket roo/bull bar as far as I am aware and the factory one is pretty good
The only negative I have heard is it mounts a bit closer to the grill
I don't like the roof rack so wouldn't go with it

 

[HandyAndy]

Welcome!
Got a bit of a club going in Perth now!
The details should be in the local forum thread for WA, or the Facebook group if that's easier for you!
I didn't go with the roof rack as I wasn't a fan of it. I am considering the Black Sheep aftermarket one, but in no rush for that either.
The bullbar has been great and havnt had any issues with it yet. But that may change when I go to install a winch
Cheers
Andy

 

[MrMike]

Hi Everyone, I’ve just joined up after being advised my Trialmaster Petrol is now in production with delivery date later this year. Not sure if it’s best to get roof rack and bar work done at factory or if after market is a better option. Keen for advice
Thinking of keeping my old 2008 RR L322 3.6 tdv8 too as I’m feeling separational anxiety already.

Welcome @Davgerman64,
As @DaveB said there isn't much aftermarket bar work around, so factory is your only real option at the moment.

Personally I'm a fan of the roof rack as it has the same 5 year warranty same as the vehicle. It also has a backbone system which adds rigidity and distributes the load, dynamic load on the 8 "feet" is only 18.5kgs each. I'm not a fan of the Black Sheep rack for a couple of reasons but I'll keep them to myself.

 

[Tazzieman]

Welcome Mr DG64!
I've also gone for a petrol TM
FR roof rack ; it's so I can clear the safari roof ((presume as a WA owner you'll avoid these) with room for my RTT and a bit more (The Ineos Rhino "3/4" model looks to be a "1/2")
FR make a full length rack ; cross slats (The Rhino one is longitudinal)
Both are strong racks ; there is a fully loaded FR 3/4 one currently traversing Africa.

 

[Nocrays]

Hi Everyone, I’ve just joined up after being advised my Trialmaster Petrol is now in production with delivery date later this year. Not sure if it’s best to get roof rack and bar work done at factory or if after market is a better option. Keen for advice
Thinking of keeping my old 2008 RR L322 3.6 tdv8 too as I’m feeling separational anxiety already.

Welcome to the forum. As others have said there is a community growing here in Perth both in this forum an on a Facebook group which is great to see.

Just my 2cents worth on Bar work.

Roobar - happy for this being supplied from the factory as I want it fitted from day 1.
Rockslider – optioned these as didn’t like the steps. I’m going to modify to be more useful as a step.
Roofrack – I like the Black Sheep rack. Haven’t seen in the flesh yet but is nice low profile and doesn’t mount on the gutters (which seem a bit flimsy to me).

Im keeping my 2001 Defender so I understand the pain of letting go....

 

[grenadierboy]

Welcome.

Regards roof rack - am looking at different brands (I received Grenadier 3 weeks ago).

I prefer a 3/4 size rack (although don't have safari windows) because from past experience I likely will not need the extra space & leaning towards a Front Runner - it's lighter and lower than the Rhino (and don't like the appearance of the Rhino!).

I also like the ARB Base Rack mainly because of it's super low profile.

I do continue to have a small concern regards gutter mounting racks on the Grenadier.

I can 100% confirm that the Grenadier gutter can be flexed/moved up & down (maybe 1-2mm in various places) by holding it's outside edge or lip.

JUST TO BE CLEAR - I COULD NOT DO THIS ON MY 1984 MB G WAGEN GUTTER SO THE CONSTRUCTION OR STEEL GAUGE USED MUST BE DIFFERENT.

However, the feet of the rack will not be placed on the edge of the gutter but further inside where the gutter joins the roof - so maybe NOT a real issue but who knows!!

I also like the Blacksheep but is not not more useful for hunters & photographers who primairly want a solid platform and not sure if attachment of various camping crap is as good as others?

 

[DaveB]

Welcome.

Regards roof rack - am looking at different brands (I received Grenadier 3 weeks ago).

I prefer a 3/4 size rack (although don't have safari windows) because from past experience I likely will not need the extra space & leaning towards a Front Runner - it's lighter and lower than the Rhino (and don't like the appearance of the Rhino!).

I also like the ARB Base Rack mainly because of it's super low profile.

I do continue to have a small concern regards gutter mounting racks on the Grenadier.

I can 100% confirm that the Grenadier gutter can be flexed/moved up & down (maybe 1-2mm in various places) by holding it's outside edge or lip.

JUST TO BE CLEAR - I COULD NOT DO THIS ON MY 1984 MB G WAGEN GUTTER SO THE CONSTRUCTION OR STEEL GAUGE USED MUST BE DIFFERENT.

However, the feet of the rack will not be placed on the edge of the gutter but further inside where the gutter joins the roof - so maybe NOT a real issue but who knows!!

I also like the Blacksheep but is not not more useful for hunters & photographers who primairly want a solid platform and not sure if attachment of various camping crap is as good as others?

pretty much the same as my thoughts
I will probably go with the black sheep though as I want to be able to put sheets of ply, fencing, paddleboards, and I think it will be more flexible/adaptable.
Also putting the occasional chair/recliner up there to enjoy the view makes sense.
The L-Track provides a lot of options for tie downs

 

[grenadierboy]

pretty much the same as my thoughts
I will probably go with the black sheep though as I want to be able to put sheets of ply, fencing, paddleboards, and I think it will be more flexible/adaptable.
Also putting the occasional chair/recliner up there to enjoy the view makes sense.
The L-Track provides a lot of options for tie downs

Agree Dave but re: tie downs - the base of the BS rack is a solid plate so the tie down points are side-to-side not from within the surface of the platform. which, I think, could make carrying small items problematic or more difficult.

As an example, I want to carry, say, 2 x small gas bottles, a BBQ and a few other smaller items - so using the BlackSheep rack I need to have tie-down lines stretching across the whole width of the 1600mm platform or front to back whereas longitude or cross rails allow for tie-down points right next to or directly alongside the item, item-by-item.

 

[DaveB]

Agree Dave but re: tie downs - the base of the BS rack is a solid plate so the tie down points are side-to-side not from within the surface of the platform. which, I think, could make carrying small items problematic or more difficult.

As an example, I want to carry, say, 2 x small gas bottles, a BBQ and a few other smaller items - so using the BlackSheep rack I need to have tie-down lines stretching across the whole width of the 1600mm platform or front to back whereas longitude or cross rails allow for tie-down points right next to or directly alongside the item, item-by-item.

Yeah nah
each panel has tie down points right across at 2" (i think) spacing plus along both sides.
I would also prefer it on the front and rear but...............................
This gives a huge range of tie down points and variations.

 

[grenadierboy]

yeah - 633mm is wider than the width of a rail but workable for small items

 

[bigleonski]

G’day and welcome.

Sorry, probably the wrong thread for this question but it flows from the previous comments.

For those that have used this system before, just how much tension can you load up on these LTrack systems? I know they are based on aircraft tiedowns, but if I have something on the roofrack on a long distance or poor road / track haul, I want to make sure the gear on top is racheted down nice and tight. Movement loosens stuff, or worse on corrugations wears holes and creates cracks in stuff. For example wanting to tie down 4x20L jerries, a spare tyre or a swag.

Can you put the same amount of strain on the tracks and their fittings as you could tieing / ratcheting off against the base or side rails of a good aluminum or steel rack?

 

[MrMike]

G’day and welcome.

Sorry, probably the wrong thread for this question but it flows from the previous comments.

For those that have used this system before, just how much tension can you load up on these LTrack systems? I know they are based on aircraft tiedowns, but if I have something on the roofrack on a long distance or poor road / track haul, I want to make sure the gear on top is racheted down nice and tight. Movement loosens stuff, or worse on corrugations wears holes and creates cracks in stuff. For example wanting to tie down 4x20L jerries, a spare tyre or a swag.

Can you put the same amount of strain on the tracks and their fittings as you could tieing / ratcheting off against the base or side rails of a good aluminum or steel rack?

The stress of corrugations etc on the Black Sheep rack is of concern to me as part of the dynamic load is put onto the aluminium tube which is isn't designed for, that combined with a vibrating load on the roof "rails" which isn't secured to the actual structure of the vehicle is of concern as well.

 

[bigleonski]

As a start, I’m likely to try and mount my existing rack (may as well use what you’ve got until you can’t - and I’m a tightarse) on a set of three roof bars.

I was walking past my local dealer this week and saw a customers Stirling Silver with red chassis. It had a set of roof bars with rails on it that (from a distance) were a good 15cm wide that looked the goods. Not sure if they were IA EOM or not.

 

[MrMike]

As a start, I’m likely to try and mount my existing rack (may as well use what you’ve got until you can’t - and I’m a tightarse) on a set of three roof bars.

I was walking past my local dealer this week and saw a customers Stirling Silver with red chassis. It had a set of roof bars with rails on it that (from a distance) were a good 15cm wide that looked the goods. Not sure if they were IA EOM or not.

Just be aware of the outermost part of the gutters on the Grenadier are very flexible (I had a bend the other day) so depending on the feet on the bars they may not be suitable, assuming you haven't got the Rhino bars?

 

[DaveB]

yeah - 633mm is wider than the width of a rail but workable for small items

View attachment 7827489

 

[grenadierboy]

Just be aware of the outermost part of the gutters on the Grenadier are very flexible (I had a bend the other day) so depending on the feet on the bars they may not be suitable, assuming you haven't got the Rhino bars?

Yeah - and the slight flexing of the gutter occurs in some areas but not in others

 

[MrMike]

Yeah - and the slight flexing of the gutter occurs in some areas but not in others

This in think is why Rhino place their "feet" around the pillar areas.

 

[Tazzieman]

Ineos+Rhino = warranty covered
FR+BS = warranty not covered.
Either of the last 2 must be tested in the field (the really rough field, not a green lane, fully loaded) to prove themselves.
Scott Brady's Africa trip with the FR rack will provide some results re the robustness and versatility for hardcore overlanders.